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THE 






PLYMOUTH AND DEVONPORT 

GUIDE; 



gftetc!)e«s of tfje sutrountrtng ^ceneri>, 

By H. E. CARRINGTON. 



These forms of beauty have not been (o me 
As is a landscape to a blind man's eye ; 
But oft in lonely rooms, and 'mid the din 
Of towns and cities, I have owed to them, 
In hours of weariness, sensations sweet, 
Felt in the blood and felt along the heart. 

Wordsworth* 



FOURTH EDITION, 

Enlarged and corrected to the present time ; 

WITH LOCAL VIEWS AND A MAP OF^THE TOWNS. 

DEVONPORT : 

W. BYERS, BOOKSELLER TO HIS MAJESTY. 

LONGMAN AND CO. LONDON. 

1837. 



ENTERED AT STATIONERS' HALL 



THE LIBRARY 
OF CONGRESS 

WASHINGTON 



A 
1*7 C- 3 



W. Byers, Printer, Fore-street, Deronport. 



HIS MOST GRACIOUS MAJESTY 

KING WILLIAM THE FOURTH, 

THIS WORK 

WAS, BY ROYAL PERMISSION, 

(WHEN HIS MAJESTY WAS LORD HIGH ADMIRAL,) 

RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED 

BY 

HIS DUTIFUL SUBJECT 

THE PUBLISHER. 



INDEX. 



DSVONPOSiT. 

Page. 

Places of Worship , 2 

Charities and Workhouse , 3 

Mechanics' Institute , 5 

Police , 6 

Town Hall ib. 

Column 7 

Literary Institutions 8 

Inns, &c 10 

Steam Carriage Company 11 

Steamers 12 

Steam Packet Company 13 

Market 14 

Theatre 15 

Ragatta 16 

Commercial Rooms 18 

Newspapers 19 

Baths ib. 

Banks , ib. 

Stoke . 20 

Morice-tovvn ib. 

Torpoint , 23 

Dock Yard -. 24 

Gunwharf and Magazine 34 

Barracks . ^. 37 

Military Hospital .75 ib. 

Harbour * 38 

Sound 40 

STOREHOUSES. 

Manufactories, Inns, and Market 42 

Places of Worship 43 

Charities ib. 

Royal Naval Hospital 45 

Marine Barracks 4/ 

Long Room ditto ib. 

Royal William Victualling Yard 48 



PLYMOUTH. 

Page. 

Places of Worship 65 

Royal Union Baths 66 

Market 67 

Inns, &c 9 ib. 

Charities 68 

Literary Institutions 70 

Theatre and Hotel 73 

Commerce , 74 

Exchange 76 

Guildhall ib. 

Plymouth and Dartmoor Railway 77 

Horticultural Society . ..,,. ib. 

Regatta 78 

Hoe 79 

Races 82 

Citadel 83 

Custom House 84 

Old Victualling Office ib. 

SCENEP.Y. 

Antony 197 

Beggar's Island 198 

Bickleigh Vale 248 

Bickleigh 259 

Bovisand 290 

Breakwater < H5 

Buckland Abbey 168 

Buckland Monachorum 169 

Brent-tor 221 

Cawsand 120 

Calstock 141 

Cad, Valley of the 258 

ChildeofPlymsiock 299 

Cothele 133 

Coffleet 277 

Crockern-tor 246 

Dartmoor 293 

-Prison 241 

Dewerstone 264 

Eddystone Lighthouse 91 

Endsleigh Cottage 233 



Pnge. 

Erth 206 

Erme 280 

Erraington 283 

Fleet 285 

Harewood , 141 

Holbeton 286 

Hoo Meavy , 17S 

Ince 205 

Ivy Bridge 281 

Kitley 2?S 

Landulph and Botusfleming * 128 

Lara , 249 

Bridge 267 

Lophill 162 

Lynher „ 196 

Lydford 229 

Castle 230 

Bridge 227 

Cascade .. 226 

Lynam , 278 

Maker 120 

Maristow 162 

Meavy , 178 

Oak ib. 

Mewstone 279 

Millbrook 186 

Morwelbam 143 

Modbury 284 

Morwell Rocks 145 

Motheeombe 286 

Mountwise ....... . 101 

Mount Edgcumbe , 110 

MountBatten 291 

Newton Ferrers 278 

Oreston 288 

Pentillie 130 

Plym Bridge 231 

Plympton , , 270 

Plymstock 289 

PortEliot 211 

Prince Town 241 

RameHead 193 

Rame 194 



▼ill. INDEX. 

Page. 

Saltrara 268 

Saltash 126 

Sheepstor 183 

Village of ib. 

Waterfall ib. 

Sharrow Grot 187 

Shillingham 204 

Sheviock 206 

Shaugh 261 

Bridge 260 

Storm on Dartmoor 302 

St. Germans 208 

St. Budeaux 157 

Tamar River, 123 

Tamerton , 159 

Tavy, River .*. . 163 

Tavistock 216 

Torpoiut 23 

Trematon 199 

Two Bridges . . . : , 243 

Warleigh 168 

Weston Mill 155 

Whitsand Bay 188 

Whistman's Wood 244 

Weir Head 147 

Yealm, River 275 

Yealmpton , . . . 276 

APPENDIX. 

Government Establishments 307 

Municipal Officers, Plymouth 308 

Churches, Chapels, Newspapers, and Banks 309 

Foreign Consuls . « 310 

Waggons j % ib. 

Hackney Coach Fares 311 

Stonehouse Churches and Chapels 312 

Municipal Officers, Devouport 313 

Churches and Chapels, do ib. 

Banks, Literary Institutions, Newspapers . = ib. 

Stage Coaches and Ferries 314 



DEVONPORT. 



Devon port, formerly Plymouth- Dock, is 
pleasantly situated on the eastern bank of 
Hamoaze, about two miles west of Plymouth, 
and, together with its suburbs of Stoke, Morice- 
Town, &c, contains about 40,000 Inhabitants. 
It owes its origin to the Establishment of the 
Dock- Yard, in the reign of William III., and its 

(increase in importance since that period has been 
very rapid. In form it is oblong, measuring 
nearly 3000 feet from north to south, and 1500 
feet from east to west. The streets are wide 
and well-built, intersecting each other, with some 
few exceptions, at right angles. The foot-ways 
are paved with variegated marble, raised from 
quarries in the neighbourhood, and presenting, 
when washed by a shower, a most beautiful ap- 
pearance. The town is situated in the parish 
and manor of Stoke-Damejel, the whole of which 
— with the exception of the Glebe, the tenements 

B 



2 DEVONPORT. 

of Ford and Swilley, and that portion of land 
which has been purchased by Government, is 
the property of Sir John St, Aubyn, Bart., who 
inherits it from his great uncle, Sir William 
Morice, Bart,,* a descendant of Sir William 
Morice, Secretary of State to Charles II. The 
lord of this manor holds an annual Court Leet 
and Court Baron, at which his son, Edward St. 
Aubyn, Esq., presides, as Steward of the Manor. 

Devonport has 'been fortified ever since the 
reign of George II. and a few years since con- 
siderable progress was made in the construction 
of lines on a more extended scale, but the works 
have been abandoned, and continue in an un- 
finished state. The entrances to the town from 
the land are three — one from Stoke, one from 
Stonehouse, and the other from Morice-Town. 

The parish church of Stoke being incompetent 
in point of size to accommodate the inhabitants 
of this densely-populated district, numerous places 
of worship have been from time to time erected 
within the town of Devonport. St. Aubyn's 
Chapel in Chapel-Street, and St. John's in Duke- 
Street, the former built in 1771 and the latter in 
1799, conform to the principles of the Established 

* Th is gentleman purchased the manor of Sir Edward Wise, the 
former proprietor, for £11,600. 



DEVONPORT. 6 

Church. The chief dissenting meeting-houses 
are the Calvinist Chapels in Princess-Street, 
Mount-Street, and Ker-Street ; the Baptist 
Chapels in Morice-Square, and Pembroke-Street ; 
the Methodist Chapels in Morice and Monument 
Streets ; the Moravian in James-Street ; and the 
Unitarian in Granby-Street — in connection with 
all or most of these are Sunday Schools, where 
thousands of children of both sexes receive the 
benefit of religious instruction. The Dock- Yard 
Chapel is also open to the inhabitants. 

The Workhouse is situated in Duke-Street, and 
is superintended by a governor and a matron, who 
reside within the walls, It contains an excellent 
Infirmary, with separate wards for males and 
females : and also an Asylum for lunatic paupers, 
the management of which has been such as to 
give great and general satisfaction. All the 
other arrangements of this extensive Establish- 
ment are conducted with becoming regularity 
The two overseers of the poor are elected annually . 
There is besides a permanent assistant-overseer, 
who receives a yearly salary. 

The Devonport and Stonehouse Public Dis- 
pensary stands in Chapel-Street, and is supported 
by voluntary contributions. An annual subscriber 
of one guinea is entitled to recommend four pa~ 



4 DEVONPORT. 

tients every year. The affairs of the Dispensary 
are directed by a president, vice-president, trea- 
surer, and secretary : and there are separate 
committees for Devonport and Stonehouse. The 
other Charitable Institutions are the Public 
Schools forTpoor boys and girls ; the School for 
the children of seamen and soldiers ; the Central 
Sunday School, at which, during the week, gra- 
tuitous instruction is given to a large number of 
children of both sexes, as well as to adults of the 
very poorest class"; the Baptist Charity School for 
clothing and educating a number of poor girls ; 
the Lying-in Charity ; the Female Benevolent 
Society ; the Dorcas Society, &c. 

Devonport possesses the advantage of a Union 
Savings' Bank, established in 1818; the benefits 
of which are not confined to these immediate 
towns, but are open to the whole neighbourhood, 
— local receivers of deposits being established in 
the several country towns and parishes. A 
handsome building, suited for the purposes of the 
Institution, has been erected in Chapel-street, 
and the affairs are under the direction of a 
patron, president, a body of trustees, not fewer in 
number than thirteen, nor exceeding thirty, and 
a committee of twenty-one managers. The 
officers consist of a treasurer, a secretary, and an 



DEVONPORT. ( 

actuary. The latter situation is at present filled 
by Mr. James Dawe. A meeting of the com- 
mittee of management is held quarterly, and a 
statement of the accounts is published annually 
by a general meeting. No individual is allowed 
to pay into this Bank more than £30 a-year, but 
the deposits of Friendly Societies are subject to 
no rule of limitation. 

The Devonport and Stonehouse Mechanics' 
Institute was formed in March, 1825. This 
excellent establishment contains a well-arranged 
and continually increasing library, the benefits of 
which are accessible on the payment of a small 
weekly subscription,* Scientific Lectures are 
periodically delivered by professional gentlemen 
engaged for the purpose ; ancL many intelligent 
members of the Society from time to time read 
discourses on different instructive subjects. 

Devonport, since the passing of the Reform 
Bill, has been represented in Parliament by 
Vice- Admiral Sir Edward Codrington, and Sir 
George Grey, Bart., his Majesty's Under Secretary 
of State for the Colonies. Its local government is 
principally vested in a Board of Commissioners, 
chiefly selected from among the inhabitants ; 

* The subscription is 3d. per week. Subscribers under twenty 
years of age pay but 2d. 

E 2 



t) DEVONPORT. 

and who, by virtue of an act passed in June. 
1814, are authorised to superintend the affairs of 
the Workhouse, the management of the poor, 
and the lighting, paving, watching, and cleaning 
of the town. They are also empowered to grant 
licenses to porters, to register watermen, &c. A 
bench of county magistrates* sits at the Town- 
Hall on Wednesdays, to hear and determine 
minor complaints arising within the town and 
parish, and to dispose of other business requiring 
magisterial interference. In addition to the 
county and court-leet constables, there are beadles 
and a night and day police ; the nocturnal safety 
of the town is further provided for by a number 
of watchmen, and the streets during the winter 
are brilliantly lighted with gas. 

The new public buildings and private dwelling 
houses which have been lately erected in Devon- 
port are characterised by taste and elegance. 
The Town-Hall, in Ker-Street, possesses a noble 
and classical exterior. The front is a Doric 
Portico with four massive fluted columns, pro- 
ducing, when viewed at a distance, a very fine 



* The Bench of County Magistrates consists of the Rev. T. H, 
Ley; Captain Sir James Gordon Bremer, Knt., R.N. ; Captain 
Foote, K.N.; Thomas Husband, William Hodge, W, P. Day kin 
Nathaniel Downe, William Hanock, John Ingle, and Thomas 
Gardner, Esquires. 



DEVON PORT. / 

effect. On the entablature, over the entrance, 
has been placed a fine statue of Britannia ; which, 
with several others, was presented to the town 
by its late public-spirited inhabitant. R. Burnet. 
Esq., now of London. A flight of stone steps 
leads to the Hall, a spacious room measuring 75 
feet by 40, and 31 feet in height. It is well fitted 
up with convenient moveable benches. The 
interior is well decorated by seven paintings. 
The largest, splendidly framed, is a portrait of 
his present Majesty William IV. and does credit 
to a native artist, Mr. Drake. The others have 
all, it is believed, been state paintings. The pair 
at the head of the Hall represents George III. and 
his consort ; that at the foot. George I. and his 
consort ; and the other two are likenesses of Queen 
Anne and George II. Beneath the Hall are the 
overseers' offices, the town prisons, and watch- 
house. 

Contiguous to the Town-Hall is the Devonport 
Column,* erected by public subscription to com- 
memorate the alteration in the name of the town. 

• These four buildings, which are so appropiately situated iti the 
central and most elevated part of the town, were all erected between 
the years 1821 and 1827, and are monuments of the taste and skill of 
J. Foulston, Ksq. to whom this neighbourhood is indebted for so 
many other of its architectural ornaments. The Hall was designed 
after the Parthenon at Athens, and built by subscription, at an 
expense of £2932. The Column cost £2750. The Chapel and the 
Library are allowed to be very successful imitations of their different 
styles :" the latter more especially from the smallness of its scale. 



o DEVONPORT. 

It is a noble fluted pillar of the Grecian Doric 
order, and its height above the level of the street 
is 124 feet. A spiral stair case within the shaft 
conducts to the summit, from which the spectator 
enjoys a grand and extensive prospect. The 
hills, vales, fields, woods, and waters, from 
Hengeston Down in the north to the ocean in 
the south — from the wilds of Dartmoor in the 
east to the billowy eminences of Cornwall in the 
west — lie before the gaze in a beautifully varied 
panorama ; while the eye looks down on Devon - 
port and its immediate vicinity as on a map. The 
Column is built of Cornish granite, and near it 
is Mount ZionChapel, a Calvinist meeting-house, 
built in the fantastic Hindoo style. The front, 
ornamented with pinnacles and fancifully em- 
bellished, possesses a very pleasing appearance. 
Adjoining the chapel is the building of the 
Devo?iport Civil and Military Library and News- 
Room, which being in imitation of the Egyptian 
architecture, forms a good contrast to the neigh- 
bouring edifices, the most conspicuous of which 
is the Royal Naval Annuitant Society, established 
in 1823. 

Messrs. Britton and Bray ley, in their descrip- 
tion of Plymouth-Dock as it was about thirty 
years ago, denominated it a town of no litera- 



DEYONPORT. 



ture. The stigma which was affixed to the name 
of Plymouth-Dock cannot with justice be applied 
to Devonport, a spirit of intelligent enquiry having 
sprung up among the inhabitants. We have 
already alluded to the Mechanics' Institute, which 
though but feebly supported, has not failed to 
manifest its powerful tendencies to enlighten an 
ingenious and indispensable class of our popu- 
lation. The Public Library and News- Room 
established on a liberal scale, has been well sup- 
ported ,• and were much enriched by a junction 
with the Military Library, formerly in the Citadel 
at Plymouth. A valuable miner alogical collection, 
allowed to be the finest in the West of England, 
has been recently presented to this Institution bv 
Sir John St. Aubyn, Bart., Lord of the Manor of 
Stoke Damerel, and which has been most scienti- 
fically arranged by George Prideaux, Esq. of 
Plymouth, who delivered an able and explanatory 
lecture on the cabinet being opened for public 
inspection. 

Among the educational establishments of the 
town are two Subscription Schools, both of 
which are highly creditable to those who origi- 
nated and support them, as affording to the classes 
with which they are respectively connected, faci- 
lities for giving their children, at a moderate 



10 DEVONPORT. 

expense, every necessary accomplishment. Clas- 
sical Literature, the Mathematics, and other 
branches of a liberal education, are taught at the 
establishment near Prince's Street, with great 
success, on a system that has served as a model 
for many similar institutions in other parts of the 
kingdom. The other is a School of less pre- 
tensions, though not perhaps of less utility; it 
being chiefly in the hands of the Mechanics of 
the Dock- yard, several hundred of whose children 
of both sexes are there educated. It is conducted 
ill an excellent building near the Column. 

The chief inns in Devonport are Elliott's Royal 
Hotel, Weakley's Hotel, Townshend's London 
Inn, and the Prince George Inn, kept by Mr. 
Franklyn. In addition to these there are other 
excellent houses of public entertainment in the 
town. The Devonport Mail, Defiance, Standard, 
and Subscription stage-coaches start for London 
every day, from eight in the morning to twelve 
at noon. The Bath and Bristol Mail starts at five 
each afternoon. The Nimrod starts every other 
day, at nine in the morning, for Tavistock, Laun- 
ceston, Okehampton, to Barnstaple, and, on the 
alternate days, the Telegraph starts for Tavistock, 
Okehampton, to Barnstaple, both passing through 
Plymouth. The Cornish Mail leaves Elliott's 



DEVONPORT. 11 

Hotel at seven in the morning, passes over in the 
steam-bridge to Torpoint, and proceeds through 
Liskeard, Lostwithiel, St. Austle, Truro, to Fal- 
mouth. Kellow's Omnibus also takes the same 
route to Truro daily. There are also omnibusses 
and light conveyances from Devonport to Lcoe, 
Liskeard, Bodmin, Launceston, and other towns 
in Cornwall. In addition to the usual number 
of hackney coaches, two neat and convenient 
Omnibusses run between Devonport and Ply- 
mouth every half-hour, from nine in the morning 
until nine at night, (Sundays excepted), licensed 
to carry twelve persons at sixpence each — which 
has proved an incalculable convenience to the in- 
habitants and visitors, both as respects the interests 
of trade, and the general comfort of passengers 
to and from these populous towns. A company 
has recently been formed, called the " Plymouth 
and Devonport Steam Carriage Company" for 
the purpose of putting to the test the invention 
of Mr. Goldsworthy Gurney, and to establish the 
practicability of travelling with carriages on 
common roads, propelled by steam. The shares 
were rapidly taken up— directors and other offi- 
cers appointed — in a very short period, therefore, 
the Company will commence their operations by 
running an omnibus between Plymouth and De- 



12 DEVONPORT. 

vonport,, having ascertained that the transit of 
passengers is nearly 80,000 annually, and that 
the ground is highly calculated to prove the value 
of the invention. The town is much indebted to 
Mr. Gurney for giving an exclusive license to 
use the patent free of charge, and also to the 
secretary, Mr. Thomas Woollcombe, for his in- 
defatigable exertions in forming the Company. 

The coach-stand is in Fore -Street; the Post- 
office in St. Aubyn-Street. 

A regular communication is kept up, from the 
early part of April to the end of October, be- 
tween this port, Torquay, Cowes, and Ports- 
mouth, twice a week, by the Brunswick, steam- 
vessel. She is a superior steamer, of considerable 
power for her size, and is most conveniently fitted 
up for the comfort and accommodation of Pas- 
sengers. She leaves Plymouth on Mondays and 
Thursdays, about noon, so as to reach Portsmouth 
the following morning in time for her passengers 
to proceed, on arrival, to London, Brighton, &c. 
by the early coaches. She takes her departure 
from Portsmouth at six o'clock in the evening, 
after the day coaches have arrived from the 
Metropolis. She calls at Torquay and Cowes 
both on her voyage to Portsmouth, and on re- 
turning from thence. 



DEVONPORT. 13 

The public comfort and convenience, as well 
as the commercial advantage of Devonport, in 
relation to the more northerly ports of the county, 
and in particular the mining districts, has been 
consulted by the Devonport Steam Packet Com- 
pany, in building and fitting the Sir John St 
Aubyn, This steamer has good accommodations, 
and besides running regularly to and from Cal- 
stock, makes occasional excursions to sea. 

A communication between these towns, Fal- 
mouth, Guernsey, Jersey, and France, is regularly 
kept up by a very excellent and comfortable 
steam-packet, the Sir Francis Drake. During 
the summer months she leaves her moorings, 
between the Royal Clarence Baths and the Royal 
William Victualling Yard, for the following 
places, first calling at Plymouth for passengers : — 
For Falmouth every Wednesday and Saturday, at 
ten, a.m„ and returns from thence every Monday 
and Thursday ; for Guernsey and Jersey every 
Thursday, at six, p.m. — leaves these Islands 
every Friday evening, and arrives here every 
Saturday morning, after which she proceeds to 
Falmouth, where she remains on the Sunday. 
This vessel has recently been lengthened, by 
which her speed has been considerably increased, 
and she is now deemed equal to any boat in the 
c 



14 DEVONPORT. 

channel. Her accommodations are very com- 
plete, the charges for refreshment extremely 
moderate, and every attention is paid to passen- 
gers. During the summer months she takes a 
trip (wind and weather permitting) every Tues- 
day, up our beautiful River Tamar, to Cotehele, 
Calstock, &c, on which occasion the company 
are enlivened by a military band. No stranger 
should leave the neighbourhood without making 
this excursion. 

For the accommodation of persons frequenting 
the Market with produce, a small steamer, called 
the Sir Joseph Yorke, plies on the market days 
(Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday) on the river 
Tamar, delivering and taking in goods and pas- 
sengers from off North-Corner, at the bottom of 
Cornwall-Street ; she belongs to John Johnson, 
Esq. of Plymouth, and was formerly connected 
with the Breakwater, that gentleman being at 
the time the contractor for this stupendous work. 

The Devonport Market is abundantly supplied 
with the necessaries and luxuries of life, the 
produce of the country for many miles round. 
It is generally accounted the cheapest mart for 
provisions in the kingdom. Fish of the most 
excellent kind is exposed for sale in surprising 
plenty, and retailed at exceedingly low prices. 



DEVONPORT. 15 

By a recent act of Parliament passed for the 
regulation of the market, a mart for corn has 
been established. 

Devonport employs a number of vessels in the 
coasting trade, and its merchants send vessels to 
the Mediterranean, America, and other foreign 
countries. The principal quays for mercantile 
shipping are at North-Corner and Mutton-Cove. 
Boats for the accommodation of foot passengers 
as well as of vehicles, have long plied between the 
latter place and the opposite shore of Mount- 
Edgcumbe ; but some years since the attention 
of the inhabitants of the neighbourhood was 
drawn by J. E. Elworthy, Esq. Solicitor, of this 
town, to the fact that the ferry was originally 
established between Cremill-Point and East- 
Stonehouse ; and great numbers of persons 
refuse, in consequence, to pay the ferry dues, 
which are still demanded on crossing from Mut- 
ton-Cove to the former place. 

The sources of amusement which the town 
affords are by no means few. A very elegant 
Theatre, situated in Cumberland-street, in the 
thoroughfare to Plymouth, is opened during the 
winter season under the management of Mr. J. 
Dawson, a highly respectable and talented come- 
dian, who has spared neither exertion nor expense 



16 DEVONPORT. 

in beautifying the place, and rendering it every 
way worthy the support of the lovers of the 
Drama. — In addition to a respectable Corps 
Dramatique, the Manager is continually engaging 
a succession of " Stars" from the metropolitan 
theatres. There is also a constant succession 
of balls and concerts. In summer the stranger 
will find ample gratification in exploring the 
enchanting scenery of the neighbourhood, which 
presents the lover of nature with a delightful 
and inexhaustible study. 

The singularly beautiful and attractive channel 
at the entrance of Hamoaze, becomes once in the 
year a scene of striking and peculiar interest, by 
the celebration of the Devonport and Slonehouse 
Regatta. The whole surface of the stream on 
this occasion, as well as the neighbouring shores 
and surrounding heights, is then instinct with 
life and gaiety ; and it cannot but affect with 
delight the breast of sympathy to behold a spot of 
earth so nobly adorned by nature, improved as it 
is by the grandest objects and associations of art, 
and occupied and enjoyed by thousands of happy 
mortals, free, bodily and mentally, for a few 
short hours at least, from toil and care, — some 
crowding the pretty beach of Cremill, others on 
the opposite walks, and Mountwise, or the 



DEVONPORT. 17 

Point, while others are careering gracefully in 
pleasure yachts of every size and variety, upon the 
bosom of the waters, over which the sound of 
martial music spreads delightfully : every person 
and every thing, even to the ships lying motion- 
less at anchor, and bedecked from stem to stern 
in gay streamers of every hue, appearing to par- 
ticipate in the general delight, and to be com- 
pletely enwrapt in holiday mood, as in holiday 
attire. The sport itself cannot rival in imposing 
grandeur the annual yacht sailing in Plymouth 
Sound ; but it is, perhaps, even more interesting 
to the general spectator Nothing in the present 
state of society more forcibly reminds one of the 
simple and more natural games of antiquity. It 
is worthy of remark, too, that these aquatic sports 
have become, perhaps justly, the most populous of 
all public spectacles and amusements, and seems, 
at least in localities like this, to have arisen in 
good time to supply the place of some of the 
manv old English holiday games and festivities, 
now fallen, or fast falling, into desuetude. This 
popularity is not confined to Devonport, Stone- 
house, or Plymouth, for when those towns have 
set the example the spirit spreads, and almost 
every village and hamlet, bordering the harbour 
and creeks of the vicinity, have its day of festive 
relaxation, and its mimic regatta. 



18 DEVONPORT. 

The stream which supplies Devonport with 
water is brought from Dartmoor, and winds a 
circuitous course of thirty miles. It is conducted 
into a reservoir, situated near the entrance of 
Stoke, from which it is circulated in iron pipes 
through the streets of the town and suburbs. 
This desirable addition to the comforts of the 
inhabitants was effected by an association of 
individuals, now denominated the Devonport 
Water Company, to whom belong the profits re- 
sulting from the payments made by the proprietor 
or occupier of each house that is supplied with 
water from the Company's reservoir. 

The Devonport Commercial Rooms are situated 
in Tavistock-Street, in the thoroughfare leading 
from Fore-Street to Morice-Town; and, with 
the Rooms at Plymouth and Stonehouse, owes 
its origin to the indefatigable exertions of John 
Johnson, E q , of Plymouth. The Reading 
Room is very capacious, well lighted with gas, 
has good fires, and every convenience. The prin- 
cipal London and Provincial Papers, Prices 
Current, Shipping Lists, Parliamentary Papers, 
&c. are constantly to be found on the tables ; the 
Subscriprion is £1. Is. per annum. Over the 
Reading Room is a spacious apartment, which is 
often let for Public Meetings, Societies, and 



DEVONPORT. 



19 



respectable Exhibitions. The building is the 
property of Thomas Husband, Esq, banker, and 
senior resident magistrate. 

Two Newspapers are printed and published in 
the town every Saturday morning — the "Devon- 
port Telegraph" by Messrs. Soper and Richards, 
St. Aubyn-street ; and the " Devonport Indepen- 
dent" by Mr. Byers, Fore-street. 

There are three Banks in the town— the De- 
vonport Bank, of Messrs. Hodge and Norman ; 
the General Bank, of Messrs. Husband ; and a 
branch of the Devon and Cornwall Banking 
Company. 

At a short distance from the town, and close 
to Mountwise, are the Royal Clarence Baths, 
which are allowed to be equal to any sea-baths 
in the kingdom. This establishment is the 
property of Mr. R. O. Back well, Ironmonger, of 
Devonport, and contains hot, cold, shower, 
vapour, and swimming baths, with improved 
bathing machines, on a beautiful beach imme- 
diately in front of the delightful peninsula of 
Mount Edgcumbe. Adjoining are seven lodging 
houses, which afford admirable retreats for 
invalids. The Hot Baths are always kept ready 
without notice, and there is a good carriage road 
to them, which has recently been lighted with gas. 



20 STOKE AND MORICE-TOWN. 



STOKE AZfD IVtORICE-TOWar. 

Since the close of the last war, the pleasant 
and healthfully situated suburb of Stoke has 
grown rapidly in extent, population, and import- 
ance. It contains some handsomely built rows 
of houses, chiefly occupied by naval and military 
officers, and retired tradesmen; besides noble 
terraces commanding extensive views, and elegant 
villas scattered throughout and around. The 
mansion of J. Norman, Esq. is conspicuous — and 
the residences of G. Leach, and Jonathan Ram- 
sey, Esqrs. on the Rowdens, of Major Gammell 
and Wm. Hancock, Esq. may be also mentioned, 
as well as Tamar and St. Michael's Terraces, 
Albemarle Villas, and Somerset Cottages. The 
old fort called the Block-House, on the summit 
of the hill, commanding Devonport and most of 
the vicinity, affords a place of refreshing and 
delightful promenade, from which is surveyed 
landward, seaward, and on every side, the most 
extensive and varied prospects; indeed the 
tourist will not find a more charming panoramic 
view in the United Kingdom. Stoke has a 
free-school and two meeting-houses of the Wes- 
leyan Methodist and Independent connexion. 



STOKE AND MORICE-TOWN. 21 

The parish-church is a plain structure, but com- 
modious. From the extent and dense population 
of the parish, the burial ground is very extensive. 
Morice-Town, which : as well as Stoke, may 
be accounted a suburb of Devonport, lies about a 
quarter of a mile north of the town. Besides the 
principal streets, many rows of neat and con- 
venient dwellings are seen in different directions. 
It has three dissenting chapels, of the Calvinist 
and Methodist denomination. Between Morice- 
Town and Torpoint a ferry was established in 
the year 1791. The hours for crossing are from 
six in the morning till nine at night, between 
Lady-day and Michaelmas, and from seven in 
the morning till eight at night during the re- 
mainder of the year. At a great expense, and 
after many difficulties had been met and over- 
come, a steam ferry has been successfully esta- 
blished at this place. The peculiarity in this 
mode of ferrying consists in the employment of two 
chains, stretching across the water and attached 
at each place of landing to heavy sunken weights, 
regulating them to the state of the tide, which 
pass into the vessel and over two wheels. These 
being set in motion by the machinery, the vessel 
leads or steers itself from side to side with the 
greatest regularity. The chains sink to a great 



22 STOKE AND MORICE-TOWN. 

depth in the water ; and at a very few yards from 
the platform at the stem or stern of the vessel, 
heavily laden ships may pass over them. This 
is beyond all doubt the best plan that has yet 
been devised for ferries over wide or rapid 
streams, and as a certain, safe, and expeditious 
means of transit at such places as the present 
must be invaluable, especially to the equestrian 
traveller. Even during the darkest nights and 
at all weathers, a coach may drive to the ferry 
and cross Hamoaze, with as much ease and safety 
as if it were travelling the turnpike road. The 
first ferry of this kind was across the Dart : after 
which one was established at Saltash ; and lastly 
this of Torpointand Morice-Town. The engineer 
of all these works was J. M. Rendell, Esq., of 
Plymouth. In common with most of the neigh- 
bourhood, Morice-Town has been for many years 
past gradually increasing in importance. It pos- 
sesses excellent quays and cambers, extensive 
stores, and two breweries, one on a large scale. 
Two very fine lines of road are now in progress, 
which will form junctions with the similar line 
from Plymouth, one passing direct from the 
landing place through Stoke to that town, 
the other branching off along the banks of 
Hamoaze towards Saltash. 



TOR POINT. 23 



TOBJPOINT. 



Torpoint lies on the western bank of the 
Tamar, immediately opposite Morice-Town. It 
consists of nearly two hundred and fifty houses, 
and contains a commodious chapel of ease, (of 
which the Rev, R. Dunning is the incumbent) the 
parish church of Antony being nearly three miles 
distant. There are also two dissenting places 
of worship, one Calvinistic and the other Wes- 
leyan. In the town is a Classical and Mathema- 
tical Establishment called " North House," a 
National Subscription School, two good Inns, 
and many modern-built Houses, occupied by very 
respectable families. The Cornwall Mail starts 
from hence every morning at half-past seven, 
and proceeds through Liskeard, Lostwithiel, St. 
Austle, Truro, and Pemyn, to Falmouth, where 
it arrives at six in the afternoon. A cattle mar- 
ket is held monthly, and a small fair annually. 

Near to Torpoint is the sequestered village of 
Willcove, famed for its choice fruit- gardens, &c. 
There are many delightful walks in this neigh- 
bourhood, one through the grounds of the late 
Right Hon. R P. Carew, extending from the turn- 
pike-road leading out of Torpoint to Antony- 
passage. 



24 DOCK-YARD. 

GOVERNMENT ESTABLISHMENTS. 

This grand national establishment was com- 
menced in the reign of William III. since which 
time it has been in a state of progressive im- 
provement, and it may now be considered one of 
the finest arsenals in the world. It is situated on 
the eastern bank of Hamoaze, and is bounded on 
the town side by a lofty wall, which encloses 
altogether an area of above seventy acres. The 
entrance from the land is at the bottom of Fore- 
street. Immediately inside the gates is the 
Dwelling House of the Director of the Police, 
which office is held by a Lieutenant in the 
Royal Navy, close to which stands the Dock 
Yard Chapel, a well-built edifice of limestone, 
constructed on the scite of a smaller chapel taken 
down some years since. At the west end is a 
handsome tower containing a good peal of bells. 
The interior of the chapel is particularly chaste 
and elegant — it has a brilliant- toned organ, a 
good choir of singers, and a talented organist. 
The gallery is set apart for the military, who 
march to and from their different barracks pre- 
ceded by a band of music. In the area are very 



DOCK-YARD. 25 

handsome and commodious pews for the Port- 
Admiral, the Capt.-Superintendent, Naval officers 
in commission, and the officers, clerks, and artifi- 
cers, belonging to the yard. The chapel is 
attended on Sunday by a numerous and respect- 
able congregation. Every accommodation is af- 
forded to strangers, who cannot fail to be impressed 
with the solemnity with which divine service 
is performed, and pleased with the diversified 
appearance of costume displayed by the navy, 
army, and civilians present. The service com- 
mences precisely at eleven, at which hour the 
gates are closed, and no person is allowed to 
enter on any pretence whatever. In front of the 
chapel is the Military Guard House, over which 
is the Navy Pay Office. West of the director's 
house is the reservoir, which supplies the different; 
departments of the arsenal with water. At a 
short distance from the Dock- Yard Gates is the 
Surgery, to which the artisans who may be 
wounded while attending to their duty are in- 
stantly conveyed, for the purpose of receiving 
medical assistance. 

A paved road leads to the Officers' Dwelling- 
Houses, thirteen in number, and built of brick. 
In front is a double row of lime trees, beneath 
which is a delightful promenade. The houses are 

D 



26 DOCK- YARD. 

inhabited by the Captain-Superintendent and his 
first Clerk, Master Shipwright and his two As- 
sistants, two Masters Attendant, Storekeeper, 
Store Receiver, Surgeon and his Assistant, 
Cashier, and the Boatswain of the Yard. 

Near this row of houses is a flight of stone 
steps, leading to the lower part of the Yard, 
which has been excavated from the solid slate 
rock. On arriving at the bottom of the steps the 
stranger will observe on the right the new North 
Dock, constructed in 1789, and supposed to be the 
largest in the kingdom. It is two hundred and 
forty feet long, eighty-five feet broad, and twenty- 
nine feet deep. Ships being occasionally taken 
into this dock with their masts and rigging 
standing, it has no roof like those that cover the 
other docks which we shall have occasion to men- 
tion. Close to this spot is a Smithery, and the 
workshops of the Plumbers, Stonemasons, and 
Bricklayers. Here also have been recently 
erected the Millwrights' and Screwcutters' shops, 
and the Engine-house : the last is a neat building, 
containing the works for pumping the water by 
means of steam out of the docks. The visitor 
having proceeded to the extremity of the yard at 
North Corner, and crossed the bridge thrown 
over the entrance of the new North Dock, arrives 



DOCK-YARD. 27 

at the North Dock* which is considerably inferior 
to the former in dimensions. The next object 
demanding attention is the Jetty, at which is the 
Capt.-Superintendent's landing place, free only for 
the officers of the navy and army. A little further 
on is the Double Dock, the inner one reaching 
nearly up to the Storehouses. The stranger's 
notice is next pointed to the Bason and Dock 
constructed in the reign of William III. The 
Bason is a large excavation, communicating with 
the harbour by means of an opening about seventy 
feet wide. It is oblong in shape, and contains 
the boats and launches belonging to the yard. 
It is bounded by jetty heads, which are platforms 
projecting over the water, and supported by 
wooden pillars driven full of nails, to preserve 
them from the ravages of worms. Within the 
bason is the Dock, which is generally used for 
repairing frigates. While examining the jetties 
the stranger should not omit to notice the Pump- 
houses, containing machinery employed to exhaust 

• Their late Majesties George I1T. and Queen charlotte were pre. 
tent at the opening of this Dock and named it the Royal Dock. 

The docks were formerly kept tlry by means of chain pumos 
worked by horses. They now communicate with a deep well beneath 
the pump, which is worked with an eight feet stroke. Thee is here 
also another steam-engine, of 20 horsepower, with a variety of 
machinery for con lucting, reclaims, and appl)ing its 20 horse 
power to the different processes of the establishment, turning &«J 
boring, trenail making, the large turning la'.hes, &c. 



28 DOCK-YARD. 

the water from the Docks ; the Saw- pits ; and 
the Kilns, in which is steamed such plank as is 
required to assume a curved form. 

Two large oblong edifices, separated by a flight 
of steps, stand in front of the four southern docks. 
These buildings are divided into offices and arti- 
ficers' workshops. Parallel to the Dock and 
Bason, towards the south, are two ranges of build- 
ing, the eastern of which contains the Rigging- 
house, and the other a depot for rigging and the 
Sail Loft, Having inspected the nev) Sea Wall, 
the visitor is conducted to the Graving Slip, used 
for the purpose of cleaning the copper sheathing 
of small vessels. South of the Graving Slip is 
the Camber, a canal sixty feet wide, stretching 
far up into the interior of the yard. Vessels 
bringing stores to the yard are here unloaded by 
means of cranes, some of which are of a new con- 
struction and very powerful. A long range of 
Storehouses front the Camber. A swinging 
bridge across the Camber leads to the Blacksmiths' 
Shop, which merits a minute attention. It con- 
tains forty-eight forges, which are employed in 
the construction of anchors and other massive 
iron stores for ships. " The greatest regularity is 
observed by the workmen in directing the blows 
of their sledge hammers on the anchor which 



DOCK- YARD. 29 

they may be forging : and during the process 
they frequently make use of a ponderous iron 
instrument called a Hercules, weighing about 
eight cwt. which is dragged to a considerable 
height by means of pullies, and then allowed 
to fall with immense power on the red hot metal. 
Those who are unaccustomed to places of this 
kind, feel strong sensations of horror on first 
entering. The clanking of the chains used to 
blow the bellows, the dingy countenances of the 
workmen, the immense fires, and above all, the 
yellow glare thrown on every thing by the 
flames, shining through the dismal columns of 
smoke that continually fill the building, form 
altogether a very terrific picture. The Anchor 
Wharf fronts the Blacksmiths' Shop. Anchors 
of all sizes are aranged here, painted to prevent 
them from rusting. 

; ' Near this wharf are three building Slips, 
covered with immense roofs, which protect the 
ships from the effects of the weather while on the 
stocks. These roofs are quite a modern expe- 
dient, the vessels having been formerly built in 
the open air. Northward of the Slips is the 
Mast-House, and adjoining it the Mast Pond. 
This is a large piece of water, in which masts 
and spars are deposited, to prevent their being 
d2 



30 DOCK-YARD. 

injured by exposure to the sun. It is enclosed 
from the harbour by a very strong wall, at least 
ten feet thick, paved at the top with large slip* 
of granite. The water flows in through two 
openings, over which are light wooden bridges/' 

The attention of the stranger is next directed 
to the Rope houses, two buildings each 1 200 feet 
long. Ships' cables are made here, some of them 
100 fathoms in length, and 25 inches in circum- 
ference. One of the Rope-houses is fire-proof — 
it is worthy the visitor's minute attention, parti- 
cularly the fine perspective view from either end, 
being excelled only in this respect by the Louvre 
in Paris. In the second-floor will be found some 
beautiful machinery used for spinning yarn, and 
other purposes connected with the manufacture 
of rope. Behind the Rope-houses is the dwelling- 
of the Master Ropemaker. The visitor should 
not omit inspecting the Mould Loft, in which the 
plans of ships intended to be built are prepared. 

Near the south end of the Mast-house is an 
eminence called the King's Hill. It is very plea- 
santly embellished with a picturesque seat, and 
tastefully laid out with flowers and shrubs. It 
commands a delightful prospect of the harbour, 
Shipping, the Sound, Mount Edgecumbe, the 
Cornish bank of the Tamar as far as Saltash, and 



DOCK-YARD 31 

many other interesting objects. King's Hill 
owes all its garden beauties to the taste of Robert 
Ellery, Esq., late Commissioner's Secretary of 
this yard. 

Having now described the piincipai features 
of this grand warlike establishment, we have 
little more to say than that it is entirely under 
the control of the Captain-Superintendent,* from 
whom all orders are received, and who has it in 
his power to discharge any workman for neglect 
of duty. The number of artisans belonging to 
the Establishment is about 2,200. 

The following vivid description of the Dock 
Yard, as it strikes the eye of a stranger, is worthy 
perusal : — 

M A person unacquainted with the economy of 
our Dock- Yards, and particularly with that of 
Plymouth; is apt to associate the ideas of bustle — 
of deafening clamour— of confused masses of 
wood, iron, &c. — of workmen eternally jostling 
and thwarting each other — of walls and build- 
ings blackened with sulphurous vapours— of 
pitch, tar, varnish, paint, chips, shavings, dirt t 
every where offending the eye, and almost debar- 

* The present Captain Superintendent is Charles Ross, esq. C.B. a 
Post-Captain in the Royal Navy, to whom strangers wishing to obtain 
admission should address a note for that purpose. One of the Police 
is seat as a guide, and minutely describes each; object worthy uotic«. 



32 DOCK-YARD. 

ring access to the vessels in the docks. He is on 
entering Plymouth Dock- Yard pleasantly unde- 
ceived. At first he does not see even the ships 
in dock, nor the Storehouses, and, unless some 
extraordinary operation, such as that of raising a 
vessel, is going on, he does not even hear, or 
scarcely hears, the sound of a hammer. The 
broad avenue from the Dock- Yard Gates has not 
a chip on its surface — it is as clean as the inde- 
fatigable broom can make it. There, with an 
aspect of simple grandeur, rises the Dock- Yard 
Chapel — the Guard House is near it with the 
sentinel slowly pacing in front ; a few passengers, 
perhaps officers of the navy or of the establish- 
ment, or haply a party permitted to view the 
Yard, are passing near it. An air of serenity, of 
order, of cleanliness, pervades the whole spot. 
It is not till the stranger or visitor has passed 
" the Row," (the houses in which the principal 
officers reside) and has descended one or two 
flights of steps that lead to the area where the 
Docks are excavated, and where the Sheds, Store- 
houses, &c. are erected, that he is sensible of the 
presence of business. He sees at once the whole 
structures whose names are familiar "as house- 
hold words" in every part of the British empire, 
and are associated with some of the most daring 



DOCK-YARD. 



33 



actions ever achieved in the great theatre of the 
world. There in the depth of the spacious docks, 
or suspended on stages, or working on the decks 
of those vast edifices, the bulwarks of Britain, 
are the artisans whose industry, skill, and intre- 
pidity, are surpassed by none. A thousand acts are 
going on— the most remarkable operations are 
performing: — the eye of skill — the arm of in- 
dustry— all that consummate ingenuity and un- 
daunted labour can produce, are there; the 
mighty machine before us is the scene of the 
most complicated duties — yet there is no confu- 
sion — every one is at his post and the spectator is 
compelled to admire the arrangements which 
have produced such important results. In the 
course of his j rogress through the other parts of 
the Yard, the stranger will find abundant reason 
to applaud the judicious disposition of things 
which every where present themselves. In the 
storehouses all is arrangement and dispatch. 
Nothing is left to chance: — attention, calcula- 
tion, simplicity, characterise those immense 
depositories. " 



34 GUNWHARF, MAGAZINE, &C. 



GTTfT WHARF, MAGAZINE, &.C 

The Gunwharf lies north of the Dock-Yard, 
from which it is only separated by the commer- 
cial quays of North-Corner. It was begun in 
the year 17 18 and completed about 1725. The 
buildings are in general good, but constructed 
in the heavy Dutch style, after the designs of 
Sir John Vanbrugh. The quantity of ground 
within the area of the walls is four acres and three 
quarters. The land entrance is from Ord nance - 
Street. A path winds under an avenue of trees 
to the officers' dwellings, pleasantly situated in 
view of the harbour, in front of which is the 
reservoir which supplies the Establishment with 
water. The principal buildings in the Gunwharf 
are two spacious storehouses, three stories high, 
in one of which, known as the grand Armoury, 
are deposited immense numbers of muskets, 
pistols, cutlasses and other weapons of offensive 
warfare, ranged along the walls with a pleasing 
regularity. The Establishment also contains 
storehouses of powder, shot, gun carriages, 
&c. The space between the buildings is oc- 
cupied by piles of cannon and pyramids of 
cannon shot. The resident Storekeeper is Wm. 



GUNWHARF, MAGAZINE, &C. 35 

Ady, Esq., who politely grants permission to 
strangers applying to view every department. 

The Key ham Powder Magazine, near Morice- 
Town, is the grand depot for the gunpowder 
required by the different warlike departments of 
the port. The Magazine consists of several de- 
tached edifices, surrounded by a high wall, and 
provided with every precautionary measure to 
guard against an explosion, which, from the vast 
quantity of gunpowder usually kept here, would 
produce the most fatal consequences to the neigh- 
bouring towns. The whole of the depot covers 
about five acres of ground. Resident Storekeeper, 
P. Glinn, Esq. 

" These magazines are considered far inade- 
quate to the wants of the service in time of war, 
as they barely contain 20,000 barrels of powder. 
As a temporary expedient five line of battle ships 
were about the year 1815 fitted up as Floating 
Magazines, supposed to contain twice "as many 
barrels as the Keyham Magazines, besides several 
millions of ball cartridges for small arms, and 
ammunition for the supply of a Field and Bat- 
tering Train Depot, The general object of this 
establishment is that of issuing powder, &c. to 
his Majesty's fleets or ships, and to such cruizers 
as rendezvous or touch at the Port — as well as of 



36 GUNWHARF, MAGAZINE, &C. 

supplying all regiments and volunteer corps from 
Somerset to the Land's-end. It is connected in 
its duties with nearly all the public departments 
at this port. 

" These magazines, being situated so far down 
channel, and there being no similar depots of 
equal magnitude in the west, are considered of 
great importance, as powder might be shipped 
with great dispatch for any foreign port in cases 
of emergency, and the transports clear the land, 
thereby obtaining their passage, while those 
from the Thames or Portsmouth, by a sudden 
change of wind, might be detained in a roadstead 
for weeks ere they would be able to proceed to 
weather the Land's End, which delay might be 
attended with serious national consequences."* 

* On the 26th June, 1810, at two o'clock a M., twelve French pri- 
soners escaped from Le Genereux, prison ship, in Hamoaze, and 
making themselves masters of the Union, powder hoy, which was 
lying about 80 yards from the Magazine Pier head, got under way for 
France. She was laden with about 800 barrels of p owder belonging 
to H.M. ship" Defiance. I he Frenchmen overpowered the watchman, 
named Gill and conveyed him to France, where he was detained a 
prisoner till the peace. Although some of the sentinels and watchmen 
saw the Union proceed down the harbour they had not the least 
suspicion, until 5 o'clock, of her being navigated by ary but her own 
crew. A report of the circumstance was communicated to the officers 
at Keyham Point, who suspected the real state of the transaction, aud 
immediately reported the affair to Admiral Young (then port admiral} 
who dispatched cruizers in pursuit without sued ss, as they stretched 
off mid channel, while the sloop shaped her course close along shore 
till night, when she bore away and safely reached Moilaix. It is a 
singular circumstance that Mr. Williams, of the Gun w barf, part owner 
of the hoy, went out on a fishing excursion for whiting, and observed 
the vessel going down the harbour, though he had not the least idea 
but that his own men bad charge of her, or he might easily have 
taken steps to regain his property. 



LABORATORY, &C. 37 

The Laboratory at Mount-Wise consisted of 
workshops for smiths, harness- makers, and other 
artificers, whose services were necessary in the 
fitting out of a military expedition. Ball car- 
tridges for troops and for field pieces were pre- 
pared here. The Laboratory is altogether com- 
posed of twenty-one detached buildings, sur- 
rounded by a lofty wall, The dwelling houses 
on the north side of the entrance were the 
residences of the officers who superintended the 
establishment. The whole is now converted 
into barracks, the former Laboratory establish- 
ment being transferred to the Kinterbury Powder 
Mills. 

The Barracks of Devonport are known by the 
names of George, Cumberland, Ligonier, and 
Frederick Squares, which, with the Horse Ar- 
tillery Barracks, are capable of accommodating 
about 2000 troops. There are three Guard-houses 
— one at each of the Barrier Gates. 

The Military Hospital is situated close to Stoke 
Church, and consists of four buildings, in front 
of which is a piazza of forty-one arches, affording 
an excellent promenade for the convalescent 
patients of the Institution. No regular medical 
establishment is now kept up here, it being only 
occupied by the sick of the different regiments in 



38 HAMOAZE. 

garrison, who are attended by their respective 
surgeons. The Hospital is enclosed by a lofty 
wall. There is a commodious landing place on 
the bank of Stonehouse Creek, at which patients 
from transports and the distant parts of the 
garrison are disembarked. 



THE HARBOUR, &.C. 

That part of the river Tamar stretching from 
Saltash to Mount Edgcumbe, a distance of more 
than four miles, is called Hamoaze, and forms 
one of the noblest harbours in the world. Its 
greatest depth at high water is between eighteen 
and twenty fathoms, and at low water about 
fifteen fathoms. In this spacious bason the ships 
of war, not required for active service, are laid 
up in ordinary, moored to strong chains which 
stretch across the harbour. These magnificent 
floating castles, stripped of their yards, topmasts, 
and rigging, afford a striking spectacle on 
account of their immense bulk. They are almost 
all painted yellow and covered with wooden 
roofs to protect them from the effects of the 
weather. The Ordinary is under the superinten- 
dence of the Captain-Superintendent (formerly 



HAMOAZE. 39 

styled the Commissioner) of the Dock Yard, 
through whom all orders from the Admiralty are 
transmitted to the Captain of the Ordinary, and 
through him to the other vessels. The Naval 
Commander-in-Chief* of this Port hoists his flag 
on board a first rate (the Royal Adelaide, of 120 
guns) but he resides on shore in a commodious 
house at Mountwise, built for him by Govern- 
ment, The flag ship, proudly floating on the 
bosom of Hamoaze, presents a noble and im- 
pressive appearance. Strangers may always gain 
permission to inspect her by applying on board. 
Naval Courts Martial are generally held on board 
the admiral's ship. 

In taking leave of the present subject we have 
only to repeat, that Hamoaze is superior to any 
port in the kingdom, not excepting that of 
Portsmouth. It is completely land-locked and 
possesses a most convenient depth of water. 

" Milford has an excellent harbour, but it is 
very difficult of access — it has a dangerous en- 
trance and a most forbidding coast. It has been 
observed that if a vessel overshoot Milford she 
has no port to which she can fly for refuge — but 
if a ship overshoot Plymouth, the harbour of 

* The present Port Admiral is the Rt. Hon, Lord Amelias Beauclerk. 



40 HAMOAZE. 

Portsmouth affords an asylum. Sheltered from 
danger — in the deep and ' capacious bason' of 
Hamoaze, the seaman, for a while, bids adieu to 
the gales of the Atlantic, and though the storm* 
tremendously roaring, pours all its aggregated 
horrors on the cliffs without, he finds calmness 
and security within. 5 ' 

The Sound is a capacious anchorage lying be- 
tween the Breakwater and the mouths of Cat- 
water and Hamoaze. A large number of ships 
may ride here in perfect safety, being effectually 
sheltered by the vast artificial mole which bounds 
it towards the open sea. A prominent feature in 
the Sound is St. Nicholas' or Drake's Island, 
situated about a mile from the main land. It 
comprises an area of about three acres, and is 
strongly fortified. It is generally garrisoned by 
a detachment of troops from Plymouth citadel. 






m 

J': 




h 



W 




41 



STONEHOUSE 

This is a handsome and increasing town, about 
half a mile east of Devonport.* Several of its 
streets are built regularly and very elegantly 
planned, and even the less important ones display 
the superior neatness and economy of modern 
erections. The principal, in point of extent* 
(Union-Street,) reaches nearly to Plymouth. In 
the twenty-seventh year of Henry III. this manor 
belonged to Joel de Stonehouse, but by various 
marriages it has since passed into the family of 
the Earl of Mount Edgcumbe. The population 
of Stonehouse amounts to 10,000. The police is 
under the direction of the County Magistrates,* 
and all complaints and parochial business used till 
recently to be brought before the bench, at the 
Town Hall, Devonport. A Bench now generally 
sits every Tuesday at Stonehouse. The town 
is brilliantly lighted with gas during the winter, 

* Under the Reform Act Stonehouse was united with Devonport? 
aud the two places under the Dame of the Borough of Devonport 
and Township of Fast Stonehouse exercise the right of sending 
members to Parliament. It was sometimes called East Stonehouse to 
distinguish it from an old village of the same name, alCremill, on the 
opposite side of the water, which was burnt by the French ; and to the 
remains or scite of which another designation has long been appro- 
priated. Still more anciently East Stonehouse was designated 
Hipeston, under which name it was known as the residence of Joel de 
Stonehouse, in the reign of Henry III. 

♦The resident Magistrates are Captain Foote, R.N., John Ingle 
and T. Gardner, Esqrs. 

E 2 



42 STONEHOUSE. 

and is supplied with water from the Devonport 
Water Company. 

Stonehouse carries on a small commerce chiefly 
in the coal and timber trades. The principal 
quays are at the western extremity of Edgcumbe- 
Street. The mercantile stores of Mr. Bickford, 
near the Bridge, are very capacious, and vessels of 
heavy tonnage can lay close alongside them. The 
Market is in Edgcumbe-Street, but the greater 
part of the inhabitants resort to the Devonport 
market for such provisions as they may require. 
There are several Inns in the town, the principal 
one being Hale's Brunswick Hotel, from which 
passengers embark on board the Steamers in 
Stonehouse-pool. The house affords very good 
accommodation for families and strangers. 

The manufactories of Stonehouse are that of 
Mr. Bayly, for supplying the Government with 
varnish, &c, Moir and Son's Iron- Foundry, and 
the Gas Works at Mill-bay. This last establish- 
ment which supplies the whole three towns and 
suburbs, with all its apparatus for decomposing the 
coal, separating and purifying the products, the 
furnaces, ovens, retorts, pipes for carrying off the 
tar and ammonia, the cleansing lime-vessels, huge 
gas-holders, &c. is open for public inspection, and 
is superintended by Mr. Jesse Adams. 



STOREHOUSE. 43 

The established place of worship for the Parish 
is St. George's Chapel, in Chapel-Street; the 
Roman Catholic Chapel, in Pearl-Street; the 
Calvinist Chapel, in Barrack-Street ; the Metho- 
dist Chapel, in Edgcumbe-Street ; the Ebenezer 
Baptist Chapel, in Union-Street ; Corpus Christi, 
Independent Chapel, in Union-Lane ; and the 
two elegant chapels recently erected in Durn- 
ford-Street, and at No Place ; the former, St. 
Paul's, a chapel of ease, the latter, Eldad 
Chapel, built by his friends and admirers for the 
Rev. John Hawker, formerly curate of Stoke 
Damerel : they are in different styles of the 
Gothic order, arid constructed chiefly of the lime- 
stone of the neighbourhood, 

The Workhouse stands in Fore-Street, and is 
superintended by a governor, a visitor, and the 
overseers. The Parochial affairs are under the 
management of a Select Vestry. The Public 
School, in Quarry-Street, is conducted on Dr. 
Bell's system of education ; and there is also in 
Market-Street an Infant School, established by 
contribution, to which children are admitted on the 
payment of a small weekly subscription. In con- 
nection with the places of worship are many 
Sunday Schools, one of which, the Wesleyan, 
contains near 300 children. A Benevolent Society 



44 STONEHOUSE. 

for the relief of the sick and lying-in poor flourishes 
in Stonehouse, under the patronage of the Countess 
of Brownlow, daughter of the Earl of Mount 
Edgcumbe, Lord of the Manor. 

Stonehouse Bridge, over which is the principal 
thoroughfare between Plymouth and Devonport, 
is a neat stone building of one arch. Before its 
construction passengers were ferried across the 
creek in a boat, which was drawn from side to 
side by a cable. This was found to be a most 
inconvenient mode of conveyance, and no one 
could cross after nine o'clock in the evening in 
summer, and eight in the winter. The tolls of 
Stonehouse Bridge are very valuable, producing 
above £2000 annual rental, and belong to the 
Earl of Mount Edgcumbe and Sir John St. Aubyn. 
Foot passengers pay a toll of one half-penny, 
which sum entitles them to repass. 

Several Reading Societies have been established 
in Stonehouse. The principal institution of this 
kind is that in Emma-Place. The circulating 
libraries are those of Mrs. Huss, in Chapel- 
Street, and Mr. Cole, in Edgcumbe-Street, in 
whose house are also the Stonehouse Commercial 
Rooms. 



45 



ROYAL NAVAL HOSPITAL 

This noble Institution was first opened for the 
reception of sick and hurt seamen and marines in 
the year 1762. The superintendent is a post 
captain in the navy,* who also discharges the 
duty of Captain-Superintendent of the Royal 
William Victualling Yard, at Cremill Point. 
The hospital stands on a pleasant ascent, rising 
from the margin of Stonehouse Creek, which 
forms its northern boundary. The area of the 
whole is about twenty-four acres, thirteen of 
which are surrounded by a verdant lawn which 
surrounds the buildings and forms a delightful 
place of exercise for the convalescent patients. 
The entrance from the town of Stonehouse is in 
Fore-Street. An avenue leads to the houses of 
the principal officers, which have good garden, 
attached. The hospital consists of ten buildings, 
surrounding an extensive quadrangle, each con- 
taining six wards, every one of which is calculated 
to receive sixteen patients ; but in cases of emer- 
gency that number can be extended to twenty. 
From this statement it will be seen that no fewer 
than twelve hundred sick can be accommodated 

• Thipps Hornby, Esq M C.B. is the present Captain.Superiateadent. 



16 ROYAL Naval hospital. 

in the hospital at the same time. In the court 
tion of the buildings care has been taken to 
prevent the spreading of contagious disorders, 
for they are detached from each other, and have 
no other communication than what is afforded 
by a piazza which surrounds three sides of the 
quadrangle, and is an excellent substitute for the 
lawn as a place of exercise in unfavourable 
weather. Between the principal edifices are 
four smaller buildings denominated pavilions ; 
one of those on the north side is used as a store 
room ; in the other is the operating room and 
the small-pox ward separated from it by a stone 
partition. The two pavilions on the south side 
are occupied as the cooking and victualling 
rooms. The centre building on the east contains 
the dispensary and the dispenser's apartments ; 
over these is the chapel on the first floor, which 
is fitted up with becoming neatness. Divine 
service is performed here every Sunday by the 
chaplain of the hospital. Near the landing place 
in Stonehouse creek, hot, cold, and shower baths 
are kept in constant readiness. At a short distance 
are the wash-house and drying ground. The 
whole establishment is supplied with water from 
a capacious reservoir constructed within the walls. 
The vast national importance of this Institution 



ROYAL MARINE BARRACKS. 47 

may be gathered from the following authentic 
statement — Between the 1st of January, 1800, 
and the 31st of December. 1815, no fewer than 
48.452 seamen and marines were received at the 
hospital, a very great proportion of whom were 
returned to the service as effective men. Howard, 
the well known philanthropist, once visited this 
hospital, and expressed, in the warmest terms, his 
approbation of the different arrangements. 

The Royal Marine Barracks are situated at the 
back of Durnford-Street. and are handsome 
erections. The buildings form a rectangle, in 
the middle of which is a spacious parade. On 
the south side are the two entrance gates and a 
newly-constructed guard-house. These barracks 
are calculated to contain nearly one thousand 
men. The mess apartments are commodious and 
well fitted up. The music of a fine band attracts 
a great number of the inhabitants to the Marine 
Parade on summer evenings. 

There were formerly extensive barracks on 
Long Room Hill, now disused. The most inte- 
resting public establishment in Stonehouse. and 
almost in the neighbourhood, and one which the 
stranger will not fail to visit, is the Victualling 
Yard at the Point. 



48 



XtOlTAXi WX&XiXiMME VICTUALLING YA.RD. 

The business of the victualling department of 
the naval service was formerly carried on at the 
Lambhay, near Plymouth Garrison, at South 
Down, at Cremil Point, and other places : 
which was found very inconvenient, and occa- 
sioned the selection of this spot so commodiously 
situate at the entrance of the harbour for an 
establishment in which all the stores, offices, and 
operations required for victualling and supplying 
our fleets might be connected under one head, 
and regulated on the same system. The erection 
was contracted for by Hugh Mc'Intosh, Esq., of 
Peckham, and was accomplished with a vigour 
and rapidity truly surprising, especially to those 
who witnessed its progress, and observed the 
massive strength of the works required for the 
foundation and elevation of the wharfs and dif- 
ferent edifices. The principal building material 
was furnished by the limestone which had to be 
cleared away to form the scite ; the other marble 
quarries of the neighbourhood, however, were 
also laid under contribution. A considerable, 
and indeed all the more ornamental portion of the 
masonry is of granite brought from Penryn. The 





mm 

H 



VICTUALLING YARD. 49 

undertaking is now nearly complete in its parts ; 
which together form an establishment unrivalled, 
perhaps, by any thing of the kind yet in existence, 
and deserving inspection, not only frcm the grand 
scale of efficiency and economy on which it is 
planned, but as being in every respect worthy the 
richest nation and the noblest navy in the world, 
for which it was constructed. Here there is an 
opportunity of contemplating objects probably new 
to many — the beauty and even grandeur, that may 
be introduced into the dullest and most every day 
labours- of life, when they are conducted on an 
extensive scale, with proper attention to order and 
arrangement. 

The Victualling Yard may be considered as 
having three principal fronts and entrances, two 
from the water, and the other from Stonehouse. 
The Clarence Stairs are immediately contiguous 
to the rocks at the point, and conduct to the 
wharf in front of the Clarence Stores, facing 
Mount Edgcumbe, and the entrance of Hamoaze- 
But the most commanding view of the whole 
Yard is from Stonehouse Pool, whence are seen 
the greater part of the wharf, along which are 
distributed fourteen cranes ; the Basin or Camber 
in the centre, with its Iron Drawbridge, over 
which and the adjoining pier heads generally peer 

F 



50 ROYAL WILLIAM 

from withinside the masts of many vessels of 
various sizes ; the Melville Stores immediately 
beyond, having over the arch-way in the centre a 
neat little square tower of granite with its four- 
dialled clock, and over that a dark cupola, sur- 
mounted by its glittering vane, to indicate as well 
the direction of the wind as the lapse of time to 
every part of the establishment ; and the other 
two principal ranges of buildings flanking the 
camber, which are very similar, and have each 
its huge columnar chimney. 

The land entrance is not far from Durnford- 
Street, and near it a landing place from the Pool 
has been constructed. This entrance cannot fail 
to command attention and admiration. It displays 
to the first glance that elegance combined with 
simplicity and neatness, which is so suited to the 
object and nature of the Institution, and which 
will be found to prevail in every part of it. The 
arches over the gate-ways are of a considerable 
height, and constructed of well- wrought Cornish 
granite, having, in addition to the tasteful ar- 
rangements of the stones, no other ornament than 
two large ox-heads of the same material, and on 
the top a fine statue of his present Majesty holding 
in his hand a truncheon. The figure, by Rennie, 
is of Portland stone, and is 13ft. 9in. in height : 
the pedestal is 6 feet. 



VICTUALLING YARD. 51 

The aspect of the place immediately on passing 
within the gates is scarcely inferior. The arch 
presents nearly the same appearance as on the out- 
side, and on either hand is a row of six plain pillars 
of solid granite, terminated by a neatly-ornamented 
structure of the same material. Those on the 
left, front the Porter's Lodge, the dwelling 
house of the Inspector, Mr. Allan, R.N., and the 
regular police station. The interior of the latter 
is, as might be expected, most skilfully fitted up 
with every attention to comfort and convenience- 
The police force, which is of the same description 
as that of the Dock Yard, consists, (exclusive of 
the Inspector) of fifteen ; three Sergeants, and 
twelve Constables. 

Behind the opposite row are the Slaughter-house 
and appurtenances. The yard into which the 
cattle are first driven opens immediately into the 
Slaughter-House, where there are the means on 
an emergency of stringing up and despatching at 
once 70 or 80 head of cattle, — and where may be 
often seen many a huge « monarch of the vale' 
after having been knocked on the head, panting 
upon the ground its last faint breath, and glaring 
its last dim gaze of life, beneath the rough 
handling of the destroyer. Contiguous are the 
Weighing-house, the Beef-House, and a small 



52 ROYAL WILLIAM 

Salting-House (for tongues only ;) and with these 
is also connected a store for vegetables, &c. 

The first large range of buildings is occupied 
by the Corn Mill and Biscuit-baking department, 
the most interesting feature of which is the 
ingenious apparatus by which the same steam 
power is applied to the many various and com- 
plicated processes of the establishment. The 
engines are three ; two of 40 horse-power each, 
which serve the whole business both of the grind- 
ing and baking departments ; and a smaller one, 
of 14 horse-power, for the baking machines only, 
w T hen the Mills are not at work. The engines 
are from Bolton and Watt's, the rest of the ma- 
chinery from the manufactory of Sir John Rennie : 
the arrangement of the whole is most judicious, 
and the order in which it is kept is, it is almost 
unnecessary to state, as excellent, it being 
regularly worked once in a month for this 
purpose. There are five distinct stories through- 
out this range, each of which is divided into 
several compartments, and over all are general 
Store Lofts. The whole to be properly appre- 
ciated demands a minute survey, and will well 
repay the trouble. On the ground floor are 
the spaces for the boilers, and others for the 
engines themselves ; the Bake-House consisting 



VICTUALLING YARD. 53 

of two similar divisions communicating with 
each other, and having each a kneading trough 
with two sets of rolling-mills, cutting plates, &c, 
and six ovens ; and also two rooms in each of 
which are seen two main shafts of the grinding 
apparatus. In the rooms immediately over, are 
the Smut-Mills, and two dozen pair of the grind- 
ing stones. Over the Bake-House also are the 
Drying Lofts for the biscuits, communicating 
with each other. Over these again are the 
Bolting Mills, &c. : and on the fourth story is a 
range of capacious Store-Rooms, forming an 
immense granary. The fifth contains the general 
receiving Lofts for wheat and meal, when brought 
up by the hoisting tackle to be dressed. The 
observer's attention will be principally occupied in 
detecting the connection of the different parts of 
the machinery, and tracing the divers motions 
and operations from stage to stage, back to the 
original impulse on the Piston-Rod from the 
expansive force of the fluid when it has lost its 
liquidity by the sudden agency of heat. 

The wheat is raised to the fifth story, whence 
it is made to run down into the Smut-Mills, — 
cylindrical sieves, through the whole length of 
which the grain has to make its way,— after 
which it falls into the hopper of the Grinding 
f2 



54 ROYAL WILLIAM 

Mills, — (Second Story) — half-a-dozen pair of 
stones having their smaller wheels or pinions 
driven by the spur wheel of each of the main 
shafts. Around these shafts and wheels which 
are boarded up, are placed receiving troughs for 
each Grinding Mill. What falls into them is 
taken up by the hoisting tackle in the form of 
.meal to the uppermost story. It then begins its 
second revolution by being passed down to the 
Dressing Mills (3rd Story : ) these are large 
cylindrical sieves of wire, with revolving brushes 
on the inside, to propel the flour through the 
meshes of the wire, which are larger or smaller 
according to the degree of fineness of the required 
biscuit. Thus sifted and sorted it passes to the 
Loft, immediately over the Bakehouse, where it 
is weighed and passed, a sack at a time, into a 
long funnel of wood, which pours it into the 
Kneading Trough. This Trough (in the Bake- 
house) when it has received the sack, or 280 lbs. 
of biscuit-meal flower, and 13J gallons of water 
from a cistern near it, is closed, and a series of 
singular instruments called knives are set revolv- 
ing amidst the mixture. In the course of a 
minute or two, the ingredients being mixed, the 
dough is taken out and thrown under heavy iron 
cylinders, moved horizontally, and called Breaking 



VICTUALLING YARD. 55 

Rollers : and by these it is formed into elongated 
masses, which are variously turned and cut, and 
frequently subjected to the pressure till no trace 
of the dry flower can be detected. The dough 
is then cut into small portions and transported 
under the Sheet Roller, by which its kneading is 
effectually completed, and it is rendered of the 
required thickness. It now only requires to be 
divided into biscuits of a convenient size, and 
this is effected by means of the Cutting Plate, 
an assemblage of 32 six-sided frames, each of 
which has its interior space occupied by another 
flat moveable frame, having attached to it a ball 
of only a few ounces weight. As the whole of 
this constantly rises and falls the blanket of 
dough is slipped beneath, and the plate descending 
the cutting frames by their hexagonal shape mark 
out but (do not separate) the whole without any 
waste into biscuits. The pressure of the dough 
is sufficient to cause the moveable frames to rise, 
but when the great plate is elevated the balls are 
seen to fall, by their gravity to pushing off the 
whole mass and preventing its sticking to the 
plate. The biscuits are baked in a quarter of an 
hour, and after that are placed for three days in 
a drying room, heated to a high temperature. 
A considerable portion of the ground floor of 



56 ROYAL WILLIAM 

the central or Melville range is occupied by offices 
which are most neatly and elegantly fitted with 
Mahogany Writing Desks, Book Cases, &c, &c, 
also conveniences of every other description. 
Leading from these offices to the stores above is 
an admirable spiral staircase of granite, remark- 
able for the manner in which the stones are fitted 
to each other and to the wall. The different spa- 
cious Store Rooms of this part are occupied by 
salt provisions, cloth, both made up into various 
garments and in the piece, mattresses, with a 
machine for combing and cleaning the hair, 
ironware utensils, &c, &c. In walking through 
one of these Ware-Rooms, where provision so 
ample is made for the temporal wants of our 
gallant seamen, the serious spectator will not 
fail to observe with pleasure a variety of 
very neat little packages marked " Bibles" 
u Prayer Books," " Religious Tracts," &c. The 
manner in which the roof is here supported by 
iron crossings may be deserving remark and ob- 
servation. The Stores communicate with each 
other, and form altogether a quadrangular build- 
ing, with a large enclosed Yard, the entrance to 
which is through the arch- way beneath the 
Tower. 

Leaving the Melville Stores, you reach the 



VICTUALLING YARD. 57 

range denominated the Cooperage Department. 
Here the four rows of Store Rooms, which are 
between 300 and 400 feet in length, form an 
extensive enclosed space, in the middle of which 
is the Coopers' Shop, divided into four com- 
partments, with a series of Store Lofts above. 
Near it is a small reservoir. 

The Clarence Stores consist of several exten- 
sive series ; the lowest of which contain salt pro- 
visions and spirits : the middle, dry stores, such 
as tea, chocolate, peas, &c. : and the uppermost, 
which are very broad, and covered by a double 
iron-supported roof, large supplies of biscuit. 

The remaining range of buildings, still in an 
unfinished state, was destined for the Brewing 
Department. The wing opposite the pool is the 
Malting House, which is kept closed. The other 
wing is chiefly occupied by Water Tanks, and 
has a powerful crane running up in the middle. 
Here there is a Steam-Engine, intended for the 
service of this department, of 20 horse-power. 

The Iron Bridge, over the entrance of the 
Camber, is separable into two portions, each of 
which may be drawn aside by one man. The 
Basin itself is very capacious : it has been arti- 
ficially deepened, and will receive vessels of two 
or three hundred tons burthen. 



58 ROYAL WILLIAM 

Passing from the Cooperage towards the South 
you come to the Wall, about 40 feet from the 
ground to the field above ; which shows the 
depth to which the solid limestone has been ex- 
cavated to form the scite of at least this part of 
the Establishment. Directly above in the ground 
supported by this massive wall, is the general 
Reservoir for the Establishment, a large square 
Basin capable of containing seven thousand tons 
of water, supplied in pipes of 9 in. bore from the 
Plymouth I.eet. In case of failure there is also a 
smaller reservoir on Long Room hill, supplied 
from a different source. 

Proceeding along the boundary wall you reach 
the Clarence Stairs, overhung by the shaggy and 
weather-beaten remnant of the original promon- 
tory, and its little Watch-House perched on the 
summit. This landing-place is a neat structure, 
and its decorations appropriate. The granite steps 
instead of forming the usual horizontal layers are 
for greater security placed obliquely against one 
the other. The iron- palings and gates are painted 
green, and headed by trident prongs, each of the 
latter being also ornamented in the centre with a 
pair of foul anchors. Here on the wharf in front 
of the Clarence Stores, the stranger will perhaps 
cease awhile to survey only the works of art 



VICTUALLING YARD. 59 

immediately around him, in admiration of the 
objects more remote, presented by the beautiful 
and varied prospect which on every side meets 
and rewards his gaze, and in which art seems to 
have only vied with nature, but without outvying 
her, in decorating with the choicest and most 
attractive scenery. Walking from the stairs 
towards the north, there lie immediately before 
him Stonehouse Pool, the general anchorage of 
the packets and trading vessels of the Port, the 
dwellings of Richmond Walk, and beyond, the 
blue Marble Quarries with their two ruined 
Lime Kilns ; a little to the west, Backwell's 
Royal Clarence Baths, with their neat gravelled 
beach, bathing tents, and pretty healthful-looking 
Lodging Houses : and a little further the landing 
place to Mount Wise, on the high ground of 
which are the Port Admiral's and the General's 
residences, the several batteries, and crowning 
the whole the Fort used as a Telegraphic station 
for Naval signals. At the western point of the 
land, portions of the Royal Dock- Yard are seen, 
among which are conspicuous the many- sashed 
Building Sheds, beneath which are raised those 
noble and mighty fabrics " the bulwarks of 
England— her stout Men-of-war." Beyond are 
the creeks of St. John's and Millbrook ; and over 



60 ROYAL WILLIAM 

these, mellowed by the distance, rises in hollowy 
ridges the land of Cornwall. Towards the 
South, gracefully yet proudly eminent over the 
pretty shingle beach of Cremill, the grove en- 
circled and pine-crowned heights of Mount-Edg- 
cumbe present a striking and splendid contrast 
to the denuded hills of the West. This almost 
Paradisal Mount gradually sloping in this direc- 
tion to the water, and terminating by its pic- 
turesque battery of 21 cannons, at scarcely a 
quarter of a mile's distance, the estuary of 
Hamoaze seen from this low station has the ap- 
pearance of a magnificent lake, bounded by 
beach scenery the most diversified, and bearing 
on its surface an assemblage of objects ever 
varying, ever new, that can be rarely if ever sur- 
passed. Here, if the wind be light, may be con- 
trasted the sluggish-looking river barge, with 
her heavy sunken hull, and two coarse sails of 
the same hue as the tilled fields through which 
she sometimes winds her way, and the nimble 
sylph-like pleasure yacht, fleeing as in sport 
with its outstretched wings of purest white from 
the pursuing zephyrs, and at the same time glid- 
ing as smoothly and gracefully as the Nautilus 
itself over the bosom of the waters ; the dull 
heavy-laden merchant brig, with motion scarcely 



TOWNSHIP OF STOREHOUSE. 61 

perceptible, and that symbol of modern activity 
and energy, the gay Steamer, pushing on its hasty 
way with bustling clamour, and leaving behind 
only smoke and disorder : in short, here may be 
seen every variety of vessel, from the tiny shore- 
boat, simply framed and furnished, directed by a 
single hand and tossed by the gentlest ripple, to 
that proud triumph of human skill and indus- 
try, "the first-rate," requiring the united labours 
of thousands throughout many years for its con- 
struction, and of hundreds constantly for its 
guidance ; now steadily seated, as it were, a huge 
fortified Island in the midst of the waters, but 
capable, like Delos, of being transported by the 
winds from one part of the world to another, not 
indeed for the honor and abode of Gods, m but to 
decide the supremacy and fate of nations among 
men. 

The Township of East-Stonehouse has increased 
in importance within the last seven years, many 
new streets having been formed, and several 
elegant mansions erected at the lower end of 
Durnford- Street. The back window's of these 
houses command a most delightful view of the 
Harbour, Mount Edgcumbe, Mount Wise, flag- 
ship, steamers, &c. It is worthy the stranger's 



62 TOWNSHIP OF STONEHOUSE. 

time to walk through Durnford- Street, passing 
the new Chapel of St. Paul's to the walk facing 
the sea — a more charming prospect can scarcely 
be found in the neighbourhood than from this 
spot, and the more elevated ground of Cremill 
point, where is situated the great reservoir of 
the Victualling Yard, which, lying underneath, 
presents itself to the spectator's eye as on a map, 
on which may be traced the minutice of this 
incomparable pile of buildings. The houses of 
Stonehouse have the advantage of being held 
under perpetual leases at an easy fine for renewal 
of lives. The great thoroughfare from the 
Bridge to the entrance of Plymouth presents a 
good Market, Hotel, several respectable Inns, 
Libraries, Schools, and elegantly fitted Shops, 
well stocked with every necessary commodity of 
luxury or utility. 



PXiYMOtTTH. 

Plymouth is a town of considerable antiquity, 
but it was principally inhabited by fishermen till 
the reign of Henry II. In the time of the Saxons 
it was called Tameorwerth ; after the Conquest 
it acquired the name of South- town or Sutton. 
In the reign of Edward I. it was denominated 
Sutton-Prior and Sutton- Valle tort, the north part 
of the town being situated on the lands of the 
Prior of Plympton, and the south on the estate 
of the Valle torts ; but in the time of Henry VI. 
these names were relinquished for the more ap- 
propriate name of Plymouth.* 

Plymouth is distant 218 miles from London, 
and stands in the parishes of Charles and St, 
Andrew. It has been a borough town, sending 
two membersf to Parliament, ever since the 
reign of Henry IV., when, on the petition of the 
" men of Plymouth," they were incorporated 
under the name of the u Mayor and Com- 



* The more ancient towns of Plympton and Plymstock have alio 
received their designations from the same liver. 

+ The present Members are Thomas Bewes, Esq. and John Collier, 
Esq. both residents in the borough, and Reformers. 

G 2 



64 PLYMOUTH. 

monalty." Its population amounts to nearly 
40,000. Many of the old streets are narrow and 
irregular, but numerous elegant edifices, both 
public and private, have sprung up in every di- 
rection ; and still greater improvements are in 
progress, marking in the most decisive manner 
the continued and increasing prosperity of the 
place, and not less the talent it commands and 
the growing taste and liberality of its inhabi- 
tants. The whole of the south-west portion of 
the town, in the vicinity of the Theatre, is a 
noble proof of this progression in mind and 
wealth ; and the north presents scarcely less 
satisfactory, though certainly less imposing, evi- 
dence, in its domestic architecture, for the most 
part of a more modest, but neat and respectable 
character. The Corporation, before it was re- 
modeled according to the provisions of the Mu- 
nicipal Reform Bill, consisted of a mayor, twelve 
aldermen, and twenty- four common-councilmen ; 
the mayor, the mayor for the preceding year de- 
nominated the justice, the recorder, and the two 
senior aldermen, being magistrates for the 
town. At the first election under the new Act, 
Thomas Gill, Esq. was chosen mayor, and C. C. 
Whiteford, Esq. town-clerk. The magistrates 
are, besides the mayor and the members for the 



PLYMOUTH. 65 

borough, W. Prance, G. Coryndon, G. W. 
Soltau, and J. King, Esqrs. W. C. Rowe, Esq. 
Barrister at Law, has been appointed Recorder. 
A Bench sits on Mondays and Thursdays at the 
Guildhall, for the purpose of determining causes 
of inferior importance ; but the Courts of Quarter 
Sessions are competent to try all offences not 
involving capital punishment, and to decide all 
civil causes arising within the limits of the 
borough. 

The town contains two parish churches,* St. 
Andrew's and Charles,' the former of which is 
of venerable antiquity, said to have been built at 
the expense of a Plymouth merchant of the name 
of Yogge, in 1440. It has been lately repaired 
and embellished at a great expense. It contains a 
fine organ, and some very curious monuments. — 
Charles' Church was built in the reign of Charles 
II. The interior is spacious but not handsome. 
The spire is of Dartmoor granite, and being 
light and airy, forms a pleasing finish to the 
building. Besides these places of worship, we 
have to notice the Chapels of Ease to St. An- 
drew's and Charles', and the various dissenting 
meeting-houses of the town, among which are 

♦The Rev. John Hatcbard is the piesent vicar of St. Andrew's, 
atid the Rev. S. Courtenay, of Charles. 



66 PLYMOUTH* 

the Presbyterian Chapel, in Batter-Street ; the 
New Tabernacle, (Calvinist) in Nor ley-lane ; 
the Ebenezer Methodist Chapel at the head of 
Old-town-Street ; the Unitarian Chapel, Bilbury 
Street ; the Old Tabernacle, Britonside : the 
Friends' Meeting-house, in Bilbury-Street ; the 
Baptist Chapels, in Norley-lane and Broad-street, 
&c. The Jews' Synagogue is in Catherine- 
Street, 

A great addition to the means of health and 
comfort of the inhabitants was the construction, 
in 1828, by a Joint Stock Company, of the 
Royal Union Baths, in Union-Street, containing 
every convenience that a public establishment of 
the kind can possess. A supply of sea water is 
brought every day from the Sound, through a 
line of pipe of between 4000 and 5000 feet; 
there being a tunnel to convey the water after 
use into Mill Bay. There are two swimming 
salt water baths, 60 feet long and between 20 
and 30 broad ; eight warm baths, fresh or salt ; 
two sulphur, or hot air baths ; Harrogate ditto ; 
two vapour baths ; two druche ditto ; three cold 
plunge baths ; and shower baths ; the command 
of all which luxuries is afforded the public at re- 
markably moderate charges. The baths are 
heated by steam. Near the baths is the recently 



PLYMOUTH. 67 

discovered Spa Well. These waters, whose 
medical effects have been highly spoken of, are 
at a temparature of 62, of 1013,3 spec. grav. and 
contain a considerable portion of carbonic acid, 
with different salts in the order in which they 
follow, chloride of sodium, the muriates of lime 
and magnesia, the sulphates of soda and lime, and 
the the carbonates of lime and iron. They are 
procured from a rock at the depth of more than 
360 feet. In the front part of the Baths there is 
a Pump Room for their supply. But a separate 
building of more spacious dimensions is in pro- 
gress, which will inclose the Well. 

The Market is very convenient and spacious, 
occupying nearly three acres of land. It is well 
supplied with commodities of all kinds which are 
sold at a cheap rate. The principal entrances 
are in Cornwall-street, East-street, and Drake- 
street. The Plymouth Fairs are held in the 
Market-place. The tolls are the property of the 
corporation. 

The chief inns are Whiddon's Royal Hotel, 
George-street ; the Commercial Inn, Old Town- 
street ; the King's Arms, Britonside ; and the 
Globe Inn, Bedford-street. Several stage coaches 
leave the town for London every day. The 
hackney coach stand is principally in Old Town- 



68 PLYMOUTH. 

street, but "dillies," as they are provincially 
termed, are stationed in various other parts of the 
town. These vehicles are generally employed 
in conveying passengers from one town to the 
other, but they are frequently hired for excur- 
sions into the country. There are besides two 
omnibuses regularly running between Plymouth 
and Devonport — fare sixpence. 

Plymouth is abundantly supplied with excellent 
water, by a fine leat, which was first brought into 
the town in the reign of Elizabeth, by the re- 
nowned and patriotic circumnavigator of the 
world, Sir Francis Drake. This stream is diverted 
' from the river Mew, just above Sheepstor bridge, 
on the skirts of Dartmoor, and winds a circuitous 
route of twenty-four miles. The water is dis- 
tributed from a reservoir at the head of the town 
through the principal streets and into the houses 
of such of the inhabitants as are willing to pay 
for this accommodation. The revenue resulting 
from the leat goes to the Corporation ; although 
its claim of property in the water has been 
warmly contested. 

The Public Charities of Plymouth are very 
numerous. The principal are the Public Dis- 
pensary (to which more than 40,000 of the 
afflicted have been indebted for the means of 



PLYMOUTH. 69 

relief or alleviation), the Eye Infirmary, the 
Lying-in C harity (to which 7000 patients have 
had recourse), the Misericordia, the Merchants' 
Hospital, the Female Benevolent Society, the 
Blanket Society, the Corpus Christi Society, the 
Provident Society, Charles' Alms Houses, Jory's 
Alms Houses, and the New Alms Houses behind 
Sussex Place, erected in 1834, under the will of 
the late Francis Fox, Esq. The Schools for poor 
children are Hele's Charity, Lanyon's Charity, 
Orphan's Aid, Grey School, Lady Rogers' School, 
Household of Faith, School of Industry, the Pub- 
lic Subscription School in Old Town-street, &c. 
The South Devon and East Cornwall Hospital 
will probably soon occupy the most distinguished 
place among the charitable institutions, not of 
Plymouth only, but of the two counties. It will 
include the objects of the present Plymouth 
Public Dispensary, by the Directors of which, a 
piece of ground near Sussex Place was purchased, 
where a suitable building is now in course of 
erection, Many liberal donations have been 
made towards this great and noble object, and 
its beneficient influence will, it is hoped, be soon 
at work, blessing and blessed by thousands from 
far and near. The religious societies are the 
Auxiliary Bible Society, the Ladies' Bible Asso- 



70 PLYMOUTH. 

ciation, the Auxiliary Society for promoting 
Christian Knowledge among the Jews, the 
Religious Tract Society, the Peace Society, So- 
ciety for promoting Christian Knowledge, the 
Bethel Union, and the Auxiliary Missionary 
Societies connected with many of the dissenting 
chapels. 

The principal literary institution is the 
Athenceum,* which owes its origin to the efforts 
of Henry Woollcombe, Esq., and some other 
gentlemen who were disposed to co-operate in 
the measure. The building of the Society stands 
near the Theatre at the end of George-street. 
" The front is a Doric portico of four columns, 
the centre intercolumniation being wider than the 
others, similar to the portico at the Temple of 
Theseus at Athens, but more massive in its pro- 
portions. The sides of the building are plain 
beyond the returns of the portico, except that the 
entablature, with the triglyphs and metopes, are 
continued the whole length of the side. The 
portico is nearly thirty-six feet in breadth, and 
the whole depth of the building is seventy-eight 
feet. The entrance from the portico is into the 
vestibule, which is ornamented with an entab- 



* The Society was formed in 1812, but the building in George- 
street was not erected till the year 1818. 



PLYMOUTH. 71 

lature, supported by Doric columns." Within 
the building is a fine hall or lecture-room, sur- 
rounded by numerous noble casts of Grecian 
sculpture.* The committee-room contains the 
library and a quantity of excellent scientific appa- 
ratus. The Institution consists of ordinary, 
honorary, and corresponding members, associates 
and junior subscribers. Its affairs are under the 
direction of a president, secretary, treasurer, 
and four curators, elected every year from among 
the ordinary members. The Session commences 
annually on the first Thursday in October, and 
a lecture is delivered every week till the last 
Thursday in March. The chair is taken at seven 
o'clock in the evening, and an essay is read by 
one of the ordinary members, after which a dis- 
cussion takes place, which, by the laws of the 
society, cannot last after ten. The Rev. R. 
Lampen, in his discourse on the opening of the 
Athenaeum, eloquently remarks on its tendency 
to confer "much invaluable enjoyment, glad- 
dening the privacy of domestic life — much ele- 
vation of character bestowed on social intercourse 
— many innocent resources to relieve the frequent 
anxieties, and to ennoble the daily pleasures of 

* These casts are principally from originals in the Elain collection, 
and were presented by his Jatc Majesty George IV. 



72 PLYMOUTH. 

existence." A Museum has been gradually col- 
lected, rich in every variety of philosophic 
curiosities, and particularly in mineralogical, 
entimological, and ornithological specimens illus- 
trative of the natural history of the neighbour- 
hood. An octavo volume of the transactions of 
the Society has been published, containing va- 
luable papers on subjects of local interest, and the 
public, it is to be hoped, are yet to be favored 
with others. An interesting feature of the 
Athenaeum is its annual exhibition of paintings, 
the works of amateurs and professional artists of 
the town and neighbourhood. 

The Public Library, connected with which is 
a News Room, stands in Cornwall-street. The 
front of the building is simply and classically 
elegant, without windows, as the different apart- 
ments of the interior are lighted by glass cupolas 
in the roof. The entrance from the street is 
through a vestibule, on either side of which are 
the committee and news-rooms. At the end of 
the vestibule is the library, containing a large 
and valuable collection of well selected books. 
Each of the four sides of the room is surmounted 
by a beautiful segment arch, richly ornamented, 
and supporting the roof which terminates in a 
light and elegant dome, resting on fluted pillars. 



PLYMOUTH. 73 

The Plymouth Mechanics' Institute was formed 
in the early part of 1826. This Society origin- 
ated among the mechanics of this town, and its 
views were much forwarded by a generous 
donation of £100 from C. Greaves, Esq. Other 
subscriptions with gifts and loans of books from 
many liberal-minded gentlemen, contributed to- 
wards placing this Institution on a permanent 
basis. Weekly lectures are delivered from 
November to- A pril inclusive ; and there are 
classes for the study of chemistry, French, 
Drawing, &c. The Society has a good library, 
and numbers about 130 members. In connection 
with the Institute, a Mechanics' News Room has 
been established with the most encouraging suc- 
cess. — Besides the above institutions, there are 
to be mentioned, the Commercial Reading and 
News Rooms at Freemasons' Hall, the Law 
Library, the Medical Society with library, &c. 

The Theatre and Hotel. — This massive and 
noble pile of buildings stands at the western end 
of George-street. It was erected in 1811 by the 
Corporation of Plymouth, whose property it still 
is. The expense of the erection, £60,000, was 
defrayed partly from the corporation funds, and 
partly by means of a tontine. The north front is 
275 feet in length. In the centre is a magni- 

H 



74 PLYMOUTH. 

ficent portico, seventy feet wide, consisting of 
eight Ionic columns, designed after the purest 
Greek models. On the eastern side of the 
building is a smaller portico about 59 feet wide. 
It is not in the middle, as it was designed that 
another similar tetrastyle portico should cor- 
respond with it near the other end of this front. 
The columns in each portico measure three feet 
six inches in diameter. The east wing of the 
building is occupied by the Royal Hotel, which 
is handsomely fitted up, containing the assembly 
rooms, a fine ball room, and many other spacious 
apartments. The western wing contains the 
Theatre. This place of amusement is open 
during the winter season. Its interior embellish- 
ments and scenery are very beautiful ; indeed no 
expense has been spared to render it one of the 
most elegant theatres out of London. The per- 
formers who appear on this stage are generally 
of very respectable abilities. The management 
was formerly in the hands of Mr. R. Brunton, but 
is now held by the widow of the late respected 
and lamented Mr. Sandford. 

The Commerce of Plymouth is not so con- 
siderable as its population and extent would seem 
to argue. It carries on, however, a good coasting 
trade, and its maritime intercourse with foreign 



PLYMOUTH. 75 

nations is by no means trifling. To the whole 
Port of Plymouth belong about 350 merchant 
vessels (30,000 tons). The coasters trade prin- 
cipally with London, Bristol, Newcastle, New- 
port, &c. ; and the larger vessels (many of 
upwards of 500 tons) mostly to America, some 
to the West Indies and Mauritius, others to the 
Baltic, Mediterranean, &c. &c. The produce of 
the mines of the vicinity, and the granite, slate, 
and limestone or marble quarries also occasion 
considerable exports. Plymouth was constituted 
a Stannary town in 1 834. The harbour of Cat- 
water affords good anchorage for shipping. It 
is well sheltered from the southern gales hy the 
peninsula of Mount Batten. The principal com- 
mercial wharfs of Plymouth are in Sutton Pool, 
a commodious bason situated almost within the 
town. At its entrance from Catwater are two 
piers of solid masonry (1791 and 1797) between 
which is a passage about ninety feet wide for the 
admission of ships. Sutton Pool is the rendezvous 
of the trawlers cr Plymouth fishing vessels, which 
supply the town and neighbourhood with an 
abundance of excellent fish. In addition to about 
50 of these large decked vessels, there are innu- 
merable smaller boats, belonging to all parts of 
the neighbourhood, employed in fishing, princi- 



76 PLYMOUTH. 

pally for pilchards and hake. Much of the pro- 
ceeds is exported to London, Bath, and other 
places. 

The Exchange, a place of general resort for 
the merchants and traders of Plymouth and its 
neighbourhood, stands in Woolster- Street, and 
was built by means of shares in 1813. It is con- 
veniently situated near the Custom House, the 
quays, and the principal mercantile warehouses. 
A spacious piazza surrounds an open area, from 
which a massive staircase of granite leads to 
apartments appropriated to the various objects 
of the institution. The great room for sales, 
meetings, and other business is well adapted for 
such purposes: an adjoining corridor affords 
access to the Reading-room, Chamber of Com- 
merce, (established in 1813 to promote the com- 
mercial interests of the place, and greatly assisted 
by the Earl of Morley, its frequent chairman,) 
Marine Insurance Office (1813,) that of the Ply- 
mouth, Devonport, Portsmouth, and Falmouth 
Steam Packet Company, (1822) &c. 

The Guildhall is a building of no pretensions 
to architectural beauty, situated in Whimple- 
street. Though (strange to say !) erected so re- 
cently as 1 800, it is believed that this barbarous 
fabric, not more styleless than inconvenient, will 



PLYMOUTH. 77 

not continue long to cumber the earth. The 
principal hall contains some old portraits, and 
at the east end is a fine picture of his late majesty 
George IV., painted while he was Prince Regent, 
by Hopner. At the Guildhall, in addition to 
affairs immediately connected with the borough, 
almost all business of a public nature is transacted. 

The Plymouth and Dartmoor Railway was 
commenced in 1819, under the sanction of an 
act of parliament procured for that purpose. It 
leads from Sutton Pool to Kingstor, near Walk- 
hampton, a distance, including the windings of 
the road, of about twenty-four miles. The pro- 
perty of the Railway is vested in a company of 
shareholders, and is at present used for the trans- 
port of granite from the moor. The carts used 
for this purpose carry out lime and other manure, 
coals, &c. This important public benefit is prin- 
cipally the result of the spirited exertions of the 
late Sir T. Tyrwhitt. 

The Royal Devon and Cornwall Botanical and 
Horticultural Society, which has its Spring and 
Autumn exhibitions in Plymouth, and its Summer 
exhibition in Devonport, is one of the most popu- 
lar as well as important of institutions, uniting, as 
it does, in its favor the obligations of benevolence, 
with the claims of the most fascinating of sci- 
h 2 



78 PLYMOUTH. 

ences, and possessing direct attractions of singular 
force. The capabilities of the rich and varied 
country in the vicinage, are taken full advantage 
of, and every part is laid under contribution, in 
such a way as to render the several annual shows 
so many proud displays of the riches, beauties, 
and marvels of nature, and of the no less admira- 
ble results of human experience, matured by the 
industry and intelligence of ages, into the practi- 
cal skill of accomplished art, or the larger com- 
prehension of profound science The change 
such institutions may be the means of effecting 
in the manners and condition of the rural and 
labouring classes of the population, cannot be 
considered without becoming the source of deep 
emotion, and giving rise to warm gratulation. 

Plymouth has an annual Regatta, at which 
boats and yachts of different sizes contend for 
valuable prizes. This grand national amusement 
takes place in the Sound, which on such occa- 
sions wears a very beautiful and enlivening 
aspect. Thousands of spectators crowd the Hoe 
and the neighbouring shores, while an immense 
number of pleasure boats, filled with gaily 
dressed gazers, make the waters of the Sound 
" instinct with life and motion." The races are 
sometimes decided in one day ; on other occasions 



PLYMOUTH. 79 

the arrangements extend and the festival con- 
tinues through two or three days. —The Royal 
Western Yacht Club (English Division) is under 
the command of a Commodore, vice-ditto, twelve 
Presidents, twenty vice-ditto, and a committee of 
twenty-six. The members subscribe one guinea 
yearly. No persons within ten miles of Ply- 
mouth are eligible as honorary members, except 
military and naval officers in actual service. 
Members of this club have peculiar dress and 
undress uniforms, and when keeping yachts take 
out a regular commission, w r hich, among other 
privileges, entitles them to enter certain foreign 
ports free of port charges. Various meetings take 
place during the year, and a general club dinner 
follows a day after the regatta. 

The Hoe, which may be called " the lungs" of 
Plymouth, lies on the south of the town. It 
occupies the whole line of the Sound, facing the 
south, and is an open eminence, devoid of trees 
or shrubs, but overlaid with a velvet green sward, 
in the centre of which is a wide gravelled path, 
used as a promenade by the inhabitants of Ply- 
mouth, who have free access to all parts of this 
delightful spot. Its height being equal to that of 
any ground in the immediate neighbourhood, it 
commands an extensive view, and overlooks a 



80 PLYMOUTH. 

vast range of populous communities, including 
Plymouth, Devonport, Stonehouse, and Stoke, 
which alone are reported to contain ninety- 
thousand souls. In the cool evening of a sultry 
day the inhabitants of all ranks and conditions 
may be seen crowding to the Hoe to inhale the 
refreshing sea breezes, and there, on a plain sur- 
face half a mile long, they may escape the lassi- 
tude generated by cares and a contracted atmos- 
phere, or, descending by a gentle declivity to 
the shore, receive that quiet and solitary satis- 
faction which is always found in the neighbour- 
hood of the great deep when its waters are still. 
From the Hoe the eye commands a vast variety 
of prospect. The very chef-d' oewvres of art and 
of nature are here associated together. Stupen- 
dous proofs of human ingenuity are laid side by 
side with the magnificent objects of nature. 
Temples, churches, towers, steeples, colonnades, 
porticos, terraces, are here set off and contrasted 
with gardens, groves, orchards, meadows, and 
green fields, through which the Tamar flows 
and the Plym rolls turbulently on. The frowning 
fortresses, the Breakwater, that huge leviathan 
of art, the volcanic arsenal, and those magnificent 
floating castles which have swept the seas of all 
our enemies, are here discovered in junta position 



PLYMOUTH. 81 

with wild rocks, the swelling ocean, abrupt pre- 
cipices, and the houseless solitudes of Dartmoor. 
There is a carriage road on the top and along 
the foot of the hill, which, with the various 
walks, are kept in good repair by the Corporation. 
The whole of the side of the hill where it slopes 
to the South, has been divided by a number of 
gravelled paths, crossing each other obliquely, and 
fitted with numerous flights of steps and crescent 
shaped benches ; by which the aspect of the Hoe 
as seen from the sea, and the convenience of 
those who resort to it in search of health or plea- 
sure, are materially improved. The site of that 
large portion of the west of the Hoe, at which 
the work of excavation and demolition has been 
going on for some years with great activity, is 
the object of an extensive building-scheme. The 
neat and uniform row of cottages on the brow of 
the hill was erected by the proprietor, T. Gill, 
Esq. (mayor) for the workmen employed in the 
adjoining quarries. The building at the east end 
of the row serves the double purpose ot a chapel 
for the resident families, and a school house for 
their children, having been licensed for the former 
use by the Bishop in 1835. 

Among the traditions connected with the Hoe 
is one relating to a combat said to have taken 



82 PLYMOUTH. 

place here between Corinaeus, a kinsman of 
Brutus, and a huge giant, whom Corinaeus slew 
by throwing him over a cliff. According to 
Carew the memory of this encounter was pre- 
served by there being " cut out in the ground 
the portraiture of two men, the one bigger and 
the other less, whom they term Gog and Magog." 
The Plymouth, Devonport, and Cornwall Races 
are held on Chelson meadow, situate beyond the 
Lara, at less than a mile and a half's distance 
from Plymouth. They originated in the village 
sports formerly held at Crabtree, and were esta- 
blished on their present scale in 1828, principally 
we believe by the liberality and exertions of the 
Earl of Morley. The present course is perfectly 
flat, and a mile and a half in circumference. 
The Grand Stand is also extremely commodious. 
Very high prizes are contested, and it is said, 
more public money is run for than at any other 
meeting in the kingdom. Two stewards, one 
from Devonshire, the other from Cornwall, offi- 
ciate annually, and great encouragement and sup- 
port are derived from the Race Association, formed 
in 1830, under Royal and other most distiuguished 
patronage, — There are also Plymouth and Devon- 
port Spring Races, established in 1833. 



83 



GOVERNMENT ESTABLISHMENTS. 

The Citadel was built in the reign of Charles 
II., and stands at the eastern end of the Hoe. It 
consists of three regular and two irregular bas- 
tions, and the curtains of the regular bastions are 
further strengthened by two ravelins and horn 
works ; on the east, north, and west sides are a 
deep ditch, counterscarp, and covered way, pali- 
sadoed. The parapets are mounted with pieces 
of cannon. The entrance is through two gate- 
ways with drawbridges. In the interior is a spa- 
cious esplanade, around which are the officers' 
houses, chapel, magazine, hospital, and barracks. 

The centre is embellished with a bronze statue 
of Geo. II., in the costume of a Roman warrior. 
The pedestal bears an English and a Latin in- 
scription. The ramparts of the Citadel, which 
are nearly three quarters of a mile in circuit, 
afford ' a very delightful prospect, and form a 
charming promenade.* 



* The Garrison was visited by a calamitous fire during 1836 Several 
houses were destroyed, and dreadful to relate, the venerable Fort 
Major Watson with his two daughters fell victims to the devouring 
element. Their bodies were dug from the smouldering ruins literally 
burnt to a cinder. A truly noble subscription was raised by the in- 
habitants in a short period of time, in aid of the surviving childreu of 
the gallant officer. 



84 GOVERNMENT ESTABLISHMENTS, &C. 

The Custom House is a new erection and stands 
on the Parade or coal quay. The front is built 
of granite, with a colonnade of five arches, sup- 
ported by rusticated piers of the same material. 
On the ground floor are the offices of the prin- 
cipal surveyor, tide surveyor, landing waiter, 
searcher, &c. A granite staircase leads to the 
Long-room, a spacious apartment for the dispatch 
of public business, adjoining to which are the 
comptroller's and collector's offices. The whole 
building wears a substantial and handsome ap- 
pearance. The Excise Office is in Notte-street. 

The extensive range of buildings situated 
below the eastern rampart of the Citadel, and 
extending from the pier at Sutton Pool to the 
mouth of Catwater harbour, was the Naval Vict- 
ualling Office, before the establishment at Cremill 
Point was formed. The premises are now occu- 
pied as Store Lofts and Packet Wharfs. 

Contiguous to those buildings is the great 
Landing Place called the Barbican, where pas- 
sengers from Plymouth, Dublin, Cork, Belfast, 
and for London, Portsmouth, Falmouth, Guernsey, 
Jersey, and other places, take water to proceed to 
the various steam-packets lying in Catwater. 



— ^ 

4 



85 

THE BREAKWATER, 

the billows sleep 

Within the shelter of a wond'rons pi!e 

Of man's vast workmanship — that new-made isle, 

That marble isle — brought piece-meal from the shore, 

To break the weltering waves and check their savage roar. 

GANDY. 

This grand national undertaking was origin- 
ally projected for the purpose of counteracting 
the heavy and destructive swell which rolled into 
Plymouth Sound during the prevalence of south- 
erly winds, making it so inconvenient and unsafe 
an anchorage that the fleet employed during the 
late war in blockading Brest, was frequently 
obliged, when driven from its station, to bear up 
for Torbay, though little better in point of secu- 
rity, and worse in every other respect, than 
Plymouth Sound.* 

The Breakwater was begun in August, 1812 ; 
and the inexhaustible limestone quarries in the 
neighbourhood of Plymouth presented an abun- 
dant supply of materials. A rock of grey marble, 
situated at Oreston, on the eastern shore of Cat- 
water, consisting of a surface of twenty-five 
acres, was purchased of the Duke of Bedford for 

* Messrs. Rennie and Whidby began to make the surveys in 1806 ; 
and on their report was issued his Majesty's order in council for com. 
mencingthe woik, dated 22nd June, 1811. 



86 THE BREAKWATER. 

the sum of £10,000; quays for embarking the 
stones were erected in front of it : railways 
leading from the quarry to the water's edge 
were laid down; and the different proceedings 
were carried on with so much activity, that on 
the 31st of March. 1813, the Breakwater made 
its first appearance above the surface of the 
Sound, at low tide, when the depth of water is 
about five fathoms. 

Blocks of limestone, of about two tons weight 
each, were thought sufficiently large to resist the 
shock of the waves. The stones were thrown 
overboard from vessels constructed expressly for 
the purpose, and were allowed to find their own 
positions ; but arrangements were made by which 
if necessary, the heaviest masses might have been 
deposited with the greatest nicety. 

The Breakwater, when complete, will stretch 
across the Sound 1700 yards, nearly in a direc- 
tion of east and west. The middle is continued 
in a straight line for one thousand yards. Each 
of the extremities will form an angle of 120 
degrees with the middle, and be 350 yards long. 
The base of the Breakwater varies in breadth 
according to the inequalities of the bottom, from 
300 to 400 feet. The slope on the southern or 
sea side is three horizontal to one perpendicu- 



THK BREAKWATER. 87 

lar. and on the land side one and a half horizontal 
to one perpendicular. The width at the top is 
thirty-six feet, and on this it is proposed to erect 
a pier with breast walls and a light-house at each 
extremity. At present to prevent vessels running 
aground, a light vessel is moored off the western 
end. The finished part of the work, 18 feet 
above low water mark, is about 1200 yards in 
length ; and the quantity of stone already de 
posited is more than two millions of tons. 

The probable expense of the Breakwater may 
be gathered from the following estimate : 
2,000,000 tons of limestone in blocks 
from 1£ to 2 tons each, at 7s. 6d. per 

ton £ 750,000 

330,000 tons in the pier, proposed to be 

built from Andurn point at 7s 126,000 

Contingencies on the whole at 20 pr. ct. 175,200 

1,051,200 
Expense of the Pier and Light houses to be 

constructed on the Breakivater. 
420 cubic yards of masonry on the two 

walls of the pier £ 44,700 

62,000 cubic yards of rubb le-filling 

between the outer and inner walls . . 18,60 

8,500 yards of paving at the top of the 

pier 22,950 

Two lighthouses with reflectors and 

Argand Lamps 5,000 

Contingencies 20 per cent 28,650 

119,900 

Total .... £1,171,100 



88 THE BREAKWATER, 

The Breakwater has answered the expecta- 
tions of its warmest advocates. Its good effects 
were indeed very sensibly felt at the end of the 
second year, when about 800 yards of the central 
part were visible above the surface of the tide, at 
low water. The swell was then so much de- 
stroyed at the head of the Sound, that the fisher- 
men were no longer able to judge of the state of 
weather in the channel. Since that period instan- 
ces have occurred of nearly 200 sail of vessels 
having at one time taken shelter within the 
Breakwater. The work continued uninjured by the 
fury of the sea until 1817, when, in consequence 
of a tremendous gale of wind, accompanied by 
an unusually high tide, a great number of the 
top stones were torn from their situations and 
deposited on the northern slope. The other 
parts of the structure were thought to have ac- 
quired additional strength from the stones having 
been shaken more closely together. On this 
occasion a deeply-laden collier rode out the gale, 
under cover of the Breakwater, but two ships of 
war — the Jasper sloop and Telegraph schooner — 
not having anchored within the influence of its 
shelter, were driven on shore and both unfortu- 
nately lost. 

The middle part of this gigantic mole suffered 



THE BREAKWATER. 89 

considerably by the tremendous storm of Novem- 
ber, 1824, on which occasion if it had not been 
of wonderful stability it must inevitably have 
been swept away by the fury of the waves. 
During this tempest the master and part of the 
crew of the ketch Coromandel, bound from Faro 
to London, with cork, were miraculously preserved 
on the west end of the Breakwater. The follow, 
ing particulars of this hair-breadth escape are too 
interesting to be omitted. " At half-past two on 
the morning of the gale the crew of the Coro- 
mandel saw the Eddystone light-house bearing 
W. by N. distant about seven miles, the vessel 
then being under a single reefed mainsail, close 
reefed topsail, and stay foresail, on the starboard 
tack, laying up S.E. by E. At three o'clock 
they took in the mainsail, and lay up W. by N. 
on the larboard tack. At four the master and 
two of the men went below, and the mate and 
another of the crew took their watch upon deck, 
the hatches being closed and the companion hat- 
ches over. About ten minutes after four a sea 
struck the vessel, without doing her any apparent 
injury, and soon afterwards another sea took her 
under the bilge, whilst she was rolling, and in- 
stantly upset her, washing the man at the helm 
off the deck. The master, two of the crew, and 
i 2 



90 THE BREAKWATER. 

a passenger, who were in the cabin, were suddenly 
thrown down and left in total darkness, under 
the weight of chests and other cabin furniture 
which pressed upon them, and almost crushed 
them to death. Having, however, managed to 
recover their legs, they found about six inches of 
water upon the cabin deck, which gradually in- 
creased to four feet. In moving about, the master 
got hold of the scuttle hatch, now above his 
head, and, calling to the others, they all crept 
into the coal-hole and remained there nearly an 
hour before the water came near them. In this 
horrible situation, not knowing whither their 
unfortunate vessel was driving, they continued 
six hours ; and just as the water had reached 
their chins, they felt the vessel strike heavily, 
and the water receded, leaving them alive to 
hope. Shortly afterwards the vessel struck a 
second time, and the crew perceived daylight 
under the gunwhale of the ship, which had hap- 
pily drifted on the western end of the Break- 
water. The hatches being knocked off by the 
concussion, the rough and massive stones of this 
stupendous fabric penetrated through the deck 
of the Coromandel, and held her firm. The crew 
then crept out from under the vessel ; and having 
found one of their own flags on the rocks, held 



KDDYhTONK LIGHT-HOUSE. 91 

it up as a signal cf distress, which was fortunately 
observed by Mr. Eddy, pilot of Cawsand, who 
was out in his boat. At the imminent risk of 
his life this gallant man approached the Break- 
water, and, having rescued the unfortunate suf- 
ferers, landed them safely in Plymouth. The 
vessel shortly afterwards went to pieces. 



THE ED3YSTONS LXCJKT-HOUSE. 

Seaward -far off— now mocking the strain'd sight,— 

Now for a moment lost beneath the waves, 

Whose foaming fiuy it for ever braves, 

Lifts up its head, that star-tower of the night, 

Whose knitted structure's well compacted might, 

In graceful s-iength, displays a lasiing claim, 

To be i he monument of Smeaton's name. 

Him the toss'd seaman blesses for tl at light 

Which go ides him through the dark ana perilous deep. 

* * * * Gandy. 

The Eddystone Rocks are situated in the 
English Channel, about fourteen miles south of 
Plymouth. This dangerous reef not only stretches 
away in a north and south direction, for the length 
of 100 fathoms, but also forms a slope towards the 
south-west, on which the waves of the Atlantic 
frequently break with almost incredible fury. 
The numerous shipwrecks which from time to 
time happened on this ledge, first suggested the 
necessity of a lighthouse, and in 1696, Mr. Henry 



92 EDDYSTONE LIGHT-HOUSE. 

Winstanley,* of Littlebury in Essex, after much 
danger and difficulty, succeeded in erecting a 
building of this kind on the Eddystone Rocks. 
This fabric however was so fantastically con- 
structed that it bore no unapt resemblance to a 
Chinese Pagoda, and it was a common saying 
that " in hard weather it was very possible for a 
six-oared boat to be lifted on a billow and driven 
through the open gallery of the light-house." 
The general opinion was that the structure 
would be one day overset by the weight of the 
seas, but Mr. Winstanley himself was so firmly 
convinced of its stability that he was frequently 
heard to observe " he was so well assured of the 
strength of his building, that he only wished to 
be there in the greatest storm that ever blew 
under the face of the heavens, that he might 
have an opportunity of witnessing what effect it 
would have upon the light-house." This desire 

* This gentleman was the Merlin of his day and had distinguished 
himself in a certain branch of mechanics, the tendency of which is to 
excite wonder and surprise. He had at his house at Littlebury a set 
of contrivances such as the following: being taken into one particular 
room, and there observing an old slipper, carelessly lying in the middle 
of the room, if, as was natural, you gave it a kick with your foot, up 
started a ghost before yon ; if you sat down in a certain arm chair, a 
couple of arms would immediately clasp yon in so as to render it im- 
possible for you to disentangle yourself till your attendant set you 
at liberty ; and if you sat down in a certain arbour by the side of a 
canal in his garden, you were forthwith sent out afloat into the middle 
from which it was impossible for you to escape till the manager re- 
turned you to your former place.- Smeaton. 



EDDYSTON T fi LIGHT-HOUSE. 93 

was fatally gratified. In November, 1703, Mr. 
Winstanley went out to the rocks, to superintend 
some repairs of the building, and that very night 
a fearful tempest arose, which so increased the 
next day, that the light-house, with its inmates 
was swept into the bosom of the foaming deep, 
It had not been long destroyed before the Win- 
chilsea, a Virginia-man laden with tobacco for 
Plymouth, went to pieces on the Eddystone 
Rocks, and all on board were lost. 

The next Light- house was erected by Mr. John 
Rudyerd, a silk mercer of Ludgate-hill, London, 
and was constructed of stone and timber. The 
principle aim of Mr. Rudyerd appears to have 
been use and simplicity, and in furtherance of 
this design, all useless ornaments were laid 
aside. The building formed the frustum of a 
cone, entirely free from any projection which 
might endanger its security. It was commenced 
in 1706, and completed in 1709. It stood till 
1755, a period of forty-six years, when it was 
totally destroyed by fire. On this occasion a 
singular circumstance happened. As one of the 
light keepers, named Henry Hall, a man aged 94 
years, was looking upwards to observe the progress 
of the flames, a shower of melted lead fell from 
the roof and a quantity of liquid metal passed 



94 EDDYSTONE L1GHT-HOUS K. 

down his throat. The man having disclosed this 
fact, was not believed, but on his death, which 
took place about twelve days after the accident, 
his body was opened, and a solid piece of lead, 
weighing seven ounces and five drachms, was 
found in his stomach. 

The present Light-house was erected by Mr. 
Smeaton. The first stone was laid on the first 
of June, 1757- "Mr. Smeaton conceived the 
idea of his edifice from the waist or bole of a 
large spreading oak. Considering the figure of 
the tree as connected with its roots, which lie 
hid below ground, Mr. S. observed that it rose 
from the surface with a large swelling base, 
which, at the height of one diameter, is generally 
reduced by an elegant concave curve to a diameter 
less by at least one-third, and sometimes to half 
its original base. Hence he deduced what the 
shape of a column of the greatest stability ought 
to be to resist the action of external violence, 
when the quantity of matter of which it is to be 
composed is given." To expedite the erection 
of the building, the stones were hewn and fitted 
to each other on shore, and after every precaution 
to ensure security bad been taken, the work was 
completed in October, 1759. Smeaton relates 
the following occurrence as having taken place 



EDDYSTONE LIGHT-HOUSE. 95 

during its construction. " Louis XIV. being at 
war with England while this work was proceed- 
ing with, a French privateer took the men at 
work on the Eddy stone Rocks, together with 
their tools, and carried them to France, the 
captain expecting a reward for the achievement. 
While the captives lay in prison the transaction 
came to the knowledge of the French monarch, 
who immediately ordered the prisoners to be 
released, and the captors to be confined in their 
stead, declaring that, though he was at war with 
England, he was not so with mankind. He 
therefore directed the men to be sent back to 
their work with presents." 

The Lantern of the Light-house is an octagon, 
the frame work being composed of cast iron and 
copper. On the night of the 16th of October, 
1759, when the light was first exhibited, a 
furious storm happened, and the keepers felt a 
very sensible motion in the building, but, from 
their conviction of its strength, they were not 
alarmed. 

The outside and basement of the edifice are 
formed of granite, that kind of stone being more 
competent than any other to resist the action of 
the sea. Round the upper store-room upon the 



96 LDDYSTONE LIGHT-HOUSE, 

course of granite under the ceiling is the follow- 
ing inscription : 

EXCEPT THE LORD BUILD THE HOUSE 
THEY LABOClt IN VAIN THAT BUILD IT. 

Psalm cxxvii. 

Over the east side of the lantern are the words, 
24th August, 1759, 

LA US DEO. 

The Light-house was at first attended by two 
men only, but the number was increased to three 
in consequence of one of the keepers having been 
once placed in a distressing situation by the death 
of his companion. On that occasion a long con- 
tinuance of bad weather had prevented the 
Eddystone vessel from visiting the rocks, and the 
surviving man was obliged to remain shut up 
with the mouldering corpse of his deceased part 
ner for more than a month, being apprehensive 
that if he threw it into the sea he should be ac- 
cused of murder. The Light-house is victualled 
with salt provisions, like a ship bound on a long 
voyage. " In high winds so briny an atmosphere 
surrounds this gloomy solitude, from the dashing 
of the waves, that a person exposed to it could 
hardly draw his breath. At these dreadful in- 
tervals the forlorn inhabitants keep close quarters 
and are obliged to live in darkness listening to 
the howling storm, excluded in every emergency 



EDDYSTONE LIGHT-HOUSE, 97 

from the hope of human assistance, and without 
any earthly comfort, but that which results from 
their confidence in the strength of the building 
in which they are immured. In fine weather 
they just scramble about the edge of the rock, 
when the tide ebbs, and amuse themselves with 
fishing ; and this is the only employment they 
have, except that of trimming their nightly fires."* 
Smeaton relates an anecdote of a man who pro- 
cured a good livelihood by making leathern pipes 
for engines, but growing tired of sitting con- 
stantly at his work, he solicited a light-house 
man's place, and, as competitors for this post are 
not numerous, he obtained it. As the Eddystone 
boat was carrying him to take possession of his 
new habitation, one of the crew asked him what 
could tempt him to give up a profitable business 
to be shut up for months together in a pillar — 
" Why" replied the man, " because I did not 
like confinement" 

The proper time for sailing to the Eddystone 
from Plymouth is at high water, and the most 
favourable wind is at north west, which not only 
answers for the passage both ways, but, being 
what seamen term a smooth water wind, it must 
blow very hard before it can raise any sea at the 

♦Gilpin. 



98 EDDYSTONE LIGHT-HOUSE. 

Eddystone rocks. The landing place is on the 
east side of the House-Rock ; that reef stretch- 
ing north and south becomes a pier to break 
off the sea from half ebb to low water, and from 
low water till half flow, an interval of time 
which, in fine weather, is the best for visiting 
the Light-house. The most unfavourable wind, 
either for going or returning, is from the south 
west, it being generally accompanied by a heavy 
sea. 

During the summer months a steam packet 
makes a weekly trip from the towns of Devonport 
and Plymouth round the Eddystone ; and the 
facility and moderate expense of such a mode of 
eonveyance induce a great number of the inhabi- 
tants of the vicinity to make this agreeable 
aquatic tour. The voyage is easily accomplished 
in an afternoon, and the vessel is always ac- 
companied by a good band, which, filling the 
solitudes of ocean with pleasing harmony, effect- 
ually relieves the monotony of a long sea excursion. 



gjcenftg. 



MOUNT WISE. 

the azure Sound, 

The reservoir of rivers. Silv'ry bays 

Are seen where commerce lifts the peaceful sail 

Or where the war barks rise; the indented cotst 

Frowns with wave-breasting rocks, nor does the eye 

Forget the proud display of bustling towns 

And busy arsenals, and cliffs high crowned 

With pealing batteries, and flags that wave 

In the fresh ocean-gale. 

Banks of Tamar. 

Mountwise, the Champ de Mars of Plymouth 
and Devonport, commands a fine variety of natural 
objects. The parade itself is a level expanse of 
gravel, pleasingly skirted by patches of refreshing 
green sward, on several of the borders of which 
double rows of poplar, oak, elm, and other trees 
have been planted, so as to form avenues. On 
the side towards Devonport is the residence of 
the Port Admiral, and nearly opposite is Govern- 
ment House, the residence of the Commander-in- 
Chief of the Forces in the Western District. 
Near the eastern ramparts, enclosed by a 
cheveaux de frize, is one of the large brass can- 
nons brought from the Dardanelles by Admiral 
Sir J. T. Duckworth, in 1807. It is mounted on 
an elegant iron carriage, cast for the purpose, with 
appropriate ornaments and inscriptions. Mount- 
it? 



102 MOUNT WISE, 

wise presents a joyous scene on the day of a grand 
review, when the troops in garrison are mustered 
to celebrate some national holiday. The town, 
and villages then, for many miles round, send forth 
their streams of human existence to swell the 
great sea of population which collects on the 
parade. The fields on the banks of the Tamar, 
Plym, and Tavy, are deserted, and even the 
lonely glens of Dartmoor hear the voice of re- 
joicing. And it is in truth a spirit stirring sight 
to gaze on the military spectacle with all its con- 
comitant " pomp and circumstance" — and to be- 
hold so many thousands of smiling happy faces^ 
though the mind is apt to recur to the Persian 
who, in contemplating his vast army from the 
heights " which looks o'er sea-born Salamis," 
wept at the thought " that ere a century should 
elapse not one of that immense multitude would 
be living. 

The scenery around Mountwise is most beau- 
tifully diversified, and the several parts which, if 
taken separately, would perhaps be harsh and 
inharmonious, are blended together so as to form 
a mellowed whole. Towards the east the eye 
glancing over the noble limestone cliffs which, 
from the northern boundary of the Sound, rests 
on the heathy hills of Dartmoor, reposing apart 



"MOUNT EDGCUMRE. 103 

from the precincts of cultivation in solitary gran- 
deur ; and, on a clear day, a wild tor may be just 
distinguished lifting its shattered crest above the 
outline of the most prominent slope. From the 
batteries of Mountwise we overlook that fine bay 
the Sound, and its attendant attractions, such as 
the Island with its weather-beaten reefs and 
banner proudly floating above the curling waters ; 
the mighty Breakwater, the heights of Staddon, 
the ships of war lying at their anchors, and the 
majestic Mewstone, uplifting its tempest scathed 
brow in craggy magnificence. Sweet it is to 
gaze into the azure Sound when the breeze is 
coming wildly and freshly in from the vast At- 
lantic — when the sea bird is soaring joyously 
around the shivered precipices and bold head- 
lands — when the " white horses," as the children 
poetically term the waves, are coursing along the 
dark line of the Breakwater, and the ships are 
stealing, like half seen visions, across the distant 
offing. 

On the west is Milbrook Creek, with its pic- 
turesquely wooded promontories. The scene in 
this direction is bounded by lofty hills, glowing 
with all the hue of luxuriant cultivation. At 
their base rise the modest white-washed build- 
ings of the South Down Brewery, only wanting 



104 MOUNT EDGCUMBE 

the aid of a few avenues oi stately trees to make 
them assume the air of a genuine Dutch village. 
The most prominent feature, however, of the 
landscape, is Mount Edgcumbe. To convey a 
correct idea of this region of enchantment is a 
task adapted rather to the pencil than to the pen, 
and the mind almost shrinks from the attempt to 
embody in mere words even a faint image of so 
much beauty. Washed by the ocean on the 
south, and by the gentle Tamar on the north, 
it is not only supremely lovely, individually con- 
sidered, but it is connected with so many inte- 
resting associations of rock, isle, cliff, towns, sea, 
and gliding sails, that the eye is never weary of 
gazing on the perpetually shifting picture, Well 
might Sir Robert Ker Porter exclaim "Mount 
Edgcumbe is the paradise of England." With 
the wave at its foot and the cloud very frequently 
on its summit, it is invested with an inexpressi- 
ble feeling of luxuriance and grandeur. Trees 
of the most varied shapes and foliage clothe its 
grassy slopes ; the gnarled oak, the noble elm, 
the beech, and the dark fir, display their several 
graces: — 

" Its silver stem 
The birch sends up like glossy serpent creeping 
Out thro' the lofty foliage ; many a gem 
As dropped fiom heedless Flora's diadem 
Lies round the crooked roots." 



MOUNT EDGCUMBE. 105 

In some places long avenues display their imposing 
regularity, and on others are beheld magnificent 
masses of billowy foliage, disposing the lights 
and shadows into a thousand picturesque direc- 
tions, while in certain situations may be perceived 
so thick an interweaving of branch and bow 
that the eye can scarcely penetrate into its dark 
recesses. The mansion, with its octagonal towers 
and old pinnacles peering above a sea of leafage, 
has a fine effect. The summit of the peninsula is 
crowned by some romantic pines, happily grouped 
and rising above the rest of the woods in alpine 
wildness. A thousand tempests from the bosom 
of the maddened Atlantic have swept over them 
but still they keep their lonely watch over the 
deep and 

" Stand l:ke Caractacus in act to rally 

His host, with broad arras 'gaiost the thunderstroke," 

In spring or summer — autumn or winter, these 
pines bave a peculiarly interesting appearance, 
and the attention of the spectator is instantly 
arrested by their -wild and unsheltered aspect. 
The tower of Maker Church looks down with an 
air of serenity on the scene below, and the woody 
promontaries of Mill brook Creek, are beheld re- 
tiring behind each other in pleasing succession, 
the blue tide gently rippling around their rock- 
edged extremities. 



106 MOUNT EDGGUMBE. 

Mount Edgcumbe is seen to the greatest ad- 
vantage by sailing round its shores in the rich 
decline of a summer evening. The outlines of 
the trees which emboss the slopes are then gilded 
with mellowed brightness, rendered more beau- 
tiful by being contrasted with the depth of the 
surrounding shadows ; and the rays of the setting 
sun, glancing between the trunks of the more 
scattered trees, form pathways of light on the 
green sward almost too bright to be profaned by 
mortal footsteps. And what a delicious spot is 
Barnpool in the sunset hour ! Its piled-up woods 
are hushed in the deepest tranquility, and, indeed 
the whole scene reposes in as intense a stillness 
as the lonely isles which have ere now been dis- 
covered in far-off seas by those " who go down 
to the great deep in ships" — isles where the 
flowers have withered unplucked on their stems, 
and the fruits have decayed untouched on the 
bough through countless ages. The dark re- 
cesses of the woods — the little temple dedicated 
to Milton — the irregular lawns dotted with little 
oases of tangled shrubs in which the hare loves 
to nestle, and 

" Quiet steeps 
Where thwarted oaks o'er their own old ;>ge brood 
And where the gentler trees in summer weather 
Spring up all greenly in their youth together,; 
And the grass is dwelling in a sileut mood, 
And the fir like fern its under forest keens 
Iu a strange stillness." 



MOUNT KDGCUMBE. 107 

all conspire to fill the mind with a feeling of un- 
alloyed delight, 

Old Ocean here reposes in glossy shadowiness, 
reflecting with striking fidelity all the surround- 
ing objects ; and, as he draws his breath, his 
utmost verge melts into foam on the pebbly beach, 
but so gently as not to wash the shining sea 
shell from its hold in the sand. The rugged 
rocks too which rise from the strand in shivered 
array, are they not beautiful ? Did ever the 
tender violet, emulous of the azure of the sky r 
or crimson sea pink spring into life beneath a 
richer canopy of leafage than that which shades 
those turf-crowned crags ? or were ever cliffs 
festooned with a sweeter variety of those clam- 
bering plants which nature has taught to prefer 
the desolate rock to the fertile plain ? Sometimes 
a ship of war rests on the tranquil bosom of this 
lovely bay, and then the long regular lines 
formed by her rigging, together with her white 
masts and undulating banners, afford a fine relief 
to the dark green back ground of umbrageous 
woods, Pleasant it is to gaze on the towers of 
Edgcumbe house peering above the woods, and 
to listen to the wave playing musically with the 
tangled sea weed. The spectator is, in fact, so 
ravished with the aspect of the scenery that he 



108 MOUNT EDGCUMBE. 

almost imagines he hears the lonely mermaid 
pouring her magic song over the trembling 
waters. And sometimes a breeze, hastily sweep- 
ing from the delightful gardens on shore, comes 
laden with odours stolen from flowers 

"' Some blue as the vein 
O'er Hero's eyelid stealing -and some as white 
In the clustering gra>s, as fair Europa's hand 
Nested amid the cur^son Jopi er's forehead, 
What time he snatched her through the startled waves ; 
Some purple too, such a? in Enna's meadows 
Forsook their own green homes and parent stalks 
To kiss the fiuge.s of Proserpina, ' 

Mount Edgcumbe and the surrounding scenery 
are extremely interesting when beheld from 
Mountwise, under the softening influence of moon- 
light. Lord Byron in none of his numerous 
descriptions of Cynthia's noontide has pictured 
the orb of night in conjunction with a more 
lovely combination of natural objects. The " tali 
piles and sea-girt palaces" of the isle built Venice 
are beautiful in the Lunar ray, but Leoni* after 
having turned from 

" The music and the banquet, and the wine, 
1 he garlands, the rose odours, and the flowers, 
The sparkling eyes, and flashing ornaments," 

gazed not, from his lonely casement in the mid- 
night hour, on a fairer scene than Mountwise 
commands at that pensive season. Mount Edg- 
cumbe is then imbued with a feeling of the 

* Byron's " Doge of Venice." 



MOUNT EDGCUMBE. 109 

deepest repose, and its outline is generally finely 
imprinted against a snowy back ground of light 
fleecy clouds ; while the picturesque groupes of 
pines start wildly up, tossing their dark hair on 
the breeze of night. Frequently a single moon- 
beam breaks athwart the pinnacles of the mansion , 
and, by touching them with a delicate gleam of 
light, renders them perfectly distinct from the 
surrounding masses of foliage. The ruin in Barn- 
pool adds a romantic feature to the scene, and the 
little temple sacred to Milton seems " touched by 
an enchanter's wand." The water in front of 
Mount Edgcumbe is one quivering, glittering 
sheet of magnificence — the gentle wavelets rising 
and falling in sparkling succession. The preci- 
pitous extremity of the peninsula, with its over- 
hanging crest of pines', is beheld with interest; 
while the lofty heights of Staddon and the towers 
of Plymouth, are imbued with a peculiar attrac- 
tion. Sometimes a solitary boat glides over the 
harbour, leaving a long luminous track behind 
her, while the oars as they are raised from the 
wave stream with liquid stars as bright as those 
of the firmament. These with a thousand other 
attendant attractions unite to render the view one 
of supreme loveliness, and to fill the soul with a 
deep sense of beauty which may be felt — not 
uttered. l 



110 



VISIT TO MOUNT EDGCUIMBE, &c 

— " thou hast charms 
Enchanting; mount which not the Local Love 
Too highly valuts, or the genial West 
Alone enamour'd views, for thou artown'd 
Supreme in loveliness in this our isle 
Profusely teeming with unrivall'd scenes." 

Mount Edgcumbe House was built by Sir 
Richard Edgcumbe about the year 1 550. It stands 
on a small artificial platform of earth, apparently 
thrown up for the purpose, at the head of a beau- 
tiful lawn which slopes gently down to the water's 
edge. It is constructed in the Gothic style, of an 
oblong shape, with octagonal towers at the four 
corners. A modern wing, containing a library and 
other rooms, has been lately added to the building, 
but as this part is hidden by a row of stately trees, 
it does not injure the architectural effect of the 
mansion. The interior possesses some spacious 
apartments, the principal of which are in the 
octagonal towers. The hall is in the Grecian style 
and decorated with Doric columns. The chimney 
pieces, tables, and several stands, supporting busts 
in the hall, are of Cornish granite, beautifully 
polished. At each end of this large room is a 
gallery, one of them containing a good organ. The 



VISIT TO MOUNT EDGCUMBE. Ill 

house boasts some excellent portraits of the Edg- 
cumbe family by Sir Peter Lely, Sir Joshua Rey- 
nolds, &c ; and among them is a curious one of 
Margaret Edgcumbe, maid of honour to Queen 
Elizabeth, and afterwards wife to Sir Edward 
Denny. She is represented in the habit of a 
widow, and according to the inscription beneath, 
the picture was painted when she was in the forty 
eighth year of her widowhood and the sixty eighth 
of her age. There are besides several fine heads 
of Charles I. and full lengths of Charles II. James 
II. Prince Rupert, and William III. 

At the bottom of the lawn, close to the water's 
edge are the Flower Gardens, cultivated in the 
English, French, and Italian styles. After leaving 
the lawn, the stranger enters the Italian Garden 
which is planted with evergreens of the most rare 
description, divided into sections by gravel walks, 
all radiating from a superb marble fountain in the 
centre from which a jet cTeau rises to a consider- 
able height, presenting a remarkably pleasing 
effect. The bason from which the jet ascends is 
of marble, and is supported on the heads of four 
tastefully carved cariatides standing on a pedestal. 
This garden is chiefly characterized by long 
avenues of odoriferous orange trees, which, in 
winter, are removed for protection to a noble 



112 VISIT TO MOUNT EDGCUMBE. 

Doric building, 100 feet long and proportionably 
high and wide. This spot also contains several 
statues of modern workmanship and among them 
is a bust of Ariosto, the pedestal of which bears 
the following inscription from that great poet's 
works. 

" Vicino al lido, donde a poco a poco 
Sa va salendo in verso il colle ameno, 
Cedri, e narauci,e lauri, e mirti, il loco, 
E nulle altri soavi arbori nan pieno. 
Lerpillo, e persa, e rose, egigii,e croco, 
Spargon dall' odorifero terreuo 
Tanta soavita, che in mar sentire 
La fa' ogni vento, che de terra spire." 

TRANSLATION. 

" Near to the shore, from whence with soft ascent 
Rises the pleasant hill, there is a place, 
\\ ith many an orange, cedar, myrtle, bay, 
And every shrub of giateful scent adorn'a. 
The rose, tbe lily, crocus, serpolet, 
Such sweets diffuse the odoriferous ground, 
That from the land each gently breathing gale 
Wafts forth the balmy fragrance to the sea." 

The French Garden is laid out in a tasteful and 
ingenious manner, A hedge of oak, bay, and 
myrtle includes a square area, arranged as a par- 
terre, ornamented in the centre by a, jet d'eau, and 
surrounded by trellis work, forming arches fes- 
tooned with numerous species of fragrant plants. 
One side of the garden is occupied by an elegant 
octagonal room, prettily furnished, and opening 
into conservatories. On the removal of a pic- 
ture at the back of the apartment, a beautiful 
antique statue of Meleager is discovered, backed 



VISIT TO MOUNT EDGCUMBE. 113 

by a mirror, which reflects every part of the gar- 
den, creating the pleasing illusion of a camera- 
obscura. The garden also contains a statue of 
Mercury, which has a very attractive appearance 
when beheld through the openings of the leafy 
arches. Here is also a remarkably fine magnolia, 
opposite to which is a votive urn, erected in 
memory of the late Countesss of Mount Edgcumbe, 
who died in 1806. It bears the name Sophia 
and the pedestal is inscribed as follows : — 

TO THE MEMORY OF 

HER 

WHOSE TASTE EMBELLISHED 

WHOSE PRESENCE ADDED CHARMS 

TO THESE RETREATS 

HERSELF THE BRIGHTEST ORNAMENT 

THIS URN IS ERECTED 

IN THE SPOT SHE LOVED. 

Near the French Garden, on a point of land 
which commands a diversified view of Devonport, 
Stonehouse, the Dock-yard and Harbour, is a 
small alcove, denominated " Thomson's Seat," in 
honour of the poet of the " Seasons." Within are 
the following lines from that writer. 

41 On either hand, 
Like a long wintry forest, groves of masis 
Shot up their spires; the bellying sheet between 
Possess'd the breezy void ; the sooty hulk 
Sieer'd sluggish on : the splendid barge along; 
Rowd, reguW-.r, to haimony -. around 
The boat, light skimming, stretched its oary wings, 
W bile deep the various voice of fervent toil 
From bank to bank increased ; whence ribbed with oak« 
To bear the British thunder, black and bold, 
The roaring vessel rushed Into the main." 
L 



114 VISIT TO MOUNT EDGCUMBE, 

The English Garden is more simply arranged 
than either of the others. It is of considerable 
extent and is laid out in beds of shrubs and flowers, 
traversed with gravel walks, which are so managed 
as to conceal the real limits of the enclosure. It 
contains many beautiful and majestic trees, among 
which are several fine magnolias, cedars of 
Lebanus and Virginia, and a few large cork-trees. 
This delightful retreat is decorated with a square 
Doric pavilion, containing a sitting and dressing- 
room, and a bath, supplied Avith hot and cold 
water from the mouths of two bronze dolphins. 
A bench in the garden is inscribed with the fol- 
lowing lines from Cowper. 

" Prospects, however lovely, may be seen, 
Till half their beauties fade; the wearied eye, 
(Too well acquainted with their charms) slides off 
Fastidious, seeking less familiar scenes. 
Then snug enclosures in some sheher'd spot 
Where frequent hedges intercept the eye, 
Delight us, happy to renounce awhile. " 
(Not senseless of iis charms,) what still we love, 
That such short absence may endear it more." 

The path which leads from the English Garden 
to the blockhouse descends into a deep excavation, 
overshadowed by trees, and containing a number 
of antique funeral urns and sarcophagi : among 
the heap of architectural fragments is a fine 
capital of the Corinthian order, brought from the 
ruins of Alexandria. At a short distance from 
this spot, and close to the beach of Barnpool, is 



VISIT TO MOUNT EDGCUMBE. 1 15 

the Blockhouse which, with the little fort on the 
opposite promontory of Devil's point, was built 
in the reign of Queen Elizabeth for the defence 
of the harbour. It is now become a ruin and is 
picturesquely overgrown with ivy. In front is a 
battery of twenty-one small guns, the successors 
of some larger pieces of ordnance which, according 
to an inscription from Carew on the wall of the 
Blockhouse, " at coming and parting, with their 
base voices greeted such guests as visited the 
house." The view from this spot is very exten- 
sive, including the whole of Barnpool, the Island* 
the populous neighbourhood of Plymouth, Mount 
Batten, Drake's Island, Staddon Heights, the 
Breakwater, Mewstone, &c. 

By following the path which leads towards the 
private landing place in Barnpool we soon arrive 
in the Amphitheatre, a noble assemblage of trees, 
piled rank above rank to a great height, display- 
ing a most enchanting variety of form and foliage. 
Here wc shall observe some beautiful tulip trees, 
a majestic cedar of Lebanus, a Carolina poplar of 
extraordinary tallness, and several large planes, 
presenting a striking immensity of bough and 
branch. On the skirt of the wood, and near the 
beach, is a little dome, supported by four Ionic 
columns, containing a bust of Milton and dedi- 



116 VISIT TO MOUNT EDGCUMBE. 

cated to that immortal poet. On the inner wall 
are inscribed the annexed lines from Paradise 
lost. 

'• Overhead npgrevv 
Insuperable height of loftiest shade 
Cedar, and fir, and pine, and branching palm, 
A sylvan scene; and as she ranks ascend 
Shade above shade, a woody theatre 
Of stateliest view." 

We shall now conduct the stranger to a few of 
the more striking objects in the grounds, and by 
the path which is usually traced by visitors to 
this charming domain. Having left Milton's 
temple, our attention will be drawn to a gothic 
Ruin, standing on the slope of a hill in a bold 
situation. This modern imitation of the many 
relics of remote antiquity which are scattered 
over our land is well designed, and adds much to 
the effect of the surrounding landscape. A flight 
of stone steps leads to a shattered window, near 
the top of the building, which enables the spec- 
tator to glance over the numerous attractions of 
the romantic neighbourhood. We soon arrive at 
the Cottage, situated in rather a wild valley, amid 
a pleasing solitude of venerable trees. In front 
of this rustic dwelling is a little garden tastefully 
laid out with flowers and shrubs. 

Having returned to the main road, we speed- 
ily arrive at the entrance of the Great Terrace ; 
we then proceed on a perfect level through * 



VISIT TO MOUNT EDGCUMBE. 117 

plantations of fir and other trees, the sea lying at 
a great depth below ; till at length we enter Pic- 
kle-combe. This little valley is so regularly 
scooped out by nature as almost to seem the work 
of art. Its sides above the road are planted with 
various trees, and the lower part is thickly over- 
run with heath and other wild plants. At the 
upper end stands a picturesque building — a modern 
imitation of a ruined chapel. It consists of moor- 
stone arches, niches, and pinnacles, all of which 
are pleasantly curtained with ivy. From the seat 
within, the eye glances down through the sloping 
glen into the bosom of the ocean. 

Leaving this solitary and interesting spot we 
pursue the Terrace to the other side of the valley, 
and speedily find ourselves in the midst of a plan- 
tation of beautiful flowering shrubs ; the arbutus, 
the laurustinus, the Portugal laurel and other 
evergreens cover the cliffs with their rich luxuri- 
ance. Not a deciduous plant appears, and this 
singular spot, protected from the cold blasts of 
the north and fully open to the genial south, 
retains its charms throughout the year, The road 
continues winding amid these delightful haunts 
till we arrive at the Arch where a stone seat 
placed at the edge of an almost perpendicular 
precipice, commands a noble view of the Sound 



118 VISIT TO MOUNT EDGCUMBE. 

and neighbouring objects. At this place are the 
principal ascent and descent to the Zig-zag Walks 
which are cut in the side of the hill, both above 
and below the Terrace, extending upwards to 
Redding Point where they enter the Park, and 
downward as low as the cliff is practicable. By 
the lower Zig-zags we may return to the bottom 
of Pickle-combe from which they are again con- 
tinued as far as Hoe Lake. This is a wild and 
finely-shaped valley, at the bottom of which, 
beneath a tuft of trees, stands a lodge, in the cot- 
tage style, with a rustic porch and a bench on 
that side which fronts the sea. Within is a large 
room fitted up with deers' skins, horns and orna- 
ments, appropriate to a park lodge. The New or 
Upper Zigs-zags are, if possible, more beautiful 
than the lower : the cliffs being more abrupt, the 
shrubs more luxuriant, and the distant views 
much more varied and interesting. At the very 
summit a bench, placed on a prominent point of 
rock, overlooks the whole side of the almost per- 
pendicular precipice, clothed with rich plants of 
arbutus and other evergreens, which seem to dip 
their branches into the sea beneath. Notwith- 
standing the steepness of the cliff, the whole of 
the Zig-zag walks are so managed as to be per- 
fectly safe and easy of access." 



VISIT TO MOUNT EDGCUMBE. 119 

Having regained the Terrace, we pass under 
the Arch, which appears like a perforated rock> 
passing through which we enter a thick wood, 
which totally excludes all remote objects from the 
gaze. Emerging from this sylvan darkness we 
pass the Ruin, and. after having followed the road 
for some distance through charming scenes, once 
more arrive at the house. 

The deer park occupies the summit of the 
peninsula and commands an extensive prospect 
over Cawsand Bay and the English Channel. At 
its western extremity, outside the park enclosure, 
btands Maker Church, the lofty tower* of which 
was used during the last war as a government 
signal station, it being eligibly situated for com- 
municating intelligence from ships in the open 
sea to the fort on Mountwise. The church 
which is a neat fabric, contains some monuments 



* Abnut the year 1763 a dreadful murder was committed in this 
tower on the body of John Couch, a poor old man who had long been 
occupied in hoisting the signals. Towards the close of the day, being 
about to leave his station, he was met at the door by Nicholas Maun- 
der, a labourer belonging to the dock-yard, who requested leave to go 
up and look round from the top of the tower, which was granted, and 
Couch accompanied him. While there, a silver watch and pair of 
buckles which the old man wore, attracted the notice of Maunder, to 
possess which he resolved on his destruction, and, in following him 
down stairs, he with several blows deprived his unfortunate victim of 
life, and afterwards robbed him of his little valuables, leaving the 
corpse almost naked. He then absconded, but suspicion of the murder 
having fallen on him. he was apprehended, committed to the county 
gaol, and, at the next assizes, found guilty and executed,— Gilbert's 
History. 



120 VISIT TO MOUNT EDGCUMBE. 

to the memory of the Edgcumbe family. The 
view from this spot, looking northward, is 
most magnificent. The harbour, with its noble 
shipping — the populous town of Devonport — the 
busy Dock-Yard— Torpoint— Saltash and the 
distant peak of Kite hill, lie before the eye in a 
bright and varied panorama. In another direc- 
tion are seen the rock-indented shores of the 
Sound— the towers of Plymouth — Stonehouse — 
the woods of Saltram — all backed by the high- 
swelling hills of Darmoor. The author refrains 
from entering into a minute description of this 
enchanting scene, since it would be impossible 
to convey in words an adequate idea of so rare a 
landscape, 

Maker heights were fortified during the Ame- 
rican war with five redoubts, which still remain, 
though some of the works have been suffered to 
fall into ruin. These heights were also occupied 
in 1596 by 170 pikemen, 300 musqueteers, and 
30 cavalty, under the command and maintained 
at the sole expense of Mr. Carew, author of the 
" Survey of Cornwall." 

Not far from Maker Church is the village of 
Cawsand, situated at the head of the bay of the 
same name, It consists of about 300 houses built 
chiefly of brick. The principal support of the 



CAWSAND. 121 

town is its fisheries, which have, however, of late 
years, much decayed. In time of war the inha- 
bitants derive great emoluments from the king's 
ships that frequently anchor in the bay. On a 
rocky knot at the west end of the town is a ruined 
fortification denominated the Bulwarks, which, 
previous to the destruction of the batteries on 
Maker Heights, was mounted with heavy ord- 
nance. Cawsand being situated close to the 
water's edge suffered extremely by the tremendous 
storms of January, 1817, and November, 1824, 
when the destruction of all kinds of property was 
very extensive. A tradition prevails that the 
Earl of Richmond, afterwards Henry VII. landed 
at Cawsand at the time he asserted his claim to 
the English throne, but while refreshing himself 
after the voyage, being informed that strict 
watch was kept for him at Plymouth, " he sud- 
denly got on board his ship," says Carew, "and 
escaped to a better fortune." A visit to the little 
fishing town of Cawsand would well repay the 
tourist. He should cross the ferry to Cremill — 
and proceeding up the hill he would enjoy as de- 
lightful a prospect as England presents. After 
crossing the plain near Maker Church, he will 
observe Cawsand beneath — with her little fleet of 
fishing boats— the " open sea" — the Breakwater 

M 



122 CAWSAND. 

— and in the distance the Eddystone Light- 
House. If the tourist be disposed to extend his 
walk, he should take the new line of road called 
" Lord Valletort's drive," from Cawsand, and 
proceed along its circuitous course until he reaches 
Penlee Point, where a very neat rustic seat has 
been recently erected by his Lordship for the 
accommodation of visitors. From this point may 
be enjoyed a most extensive and delightful view 
of the English Channel. Not far distant is the 
village and church of Rame, the latter of which 
is deserving the stranger's notice. On returning 
a change of scene would present itself, by de- 
scending from Maker Heights to the village of 
Millbrook, from thence taking the lower road on 
the margin of the lake— passing Anderton, Im- 
pacombe, Mount Edgcumbe Garden and Farm, 
until he arrives again at the beach of Cremttl, 
where, should he require rest and refreshment, 
he will find every comfort at the Inn kept by Mr. 
Graves. A rustic seat will be observed on the 
rock behind the bouse, from which the stranger 
will be delighted on a fine day to overlook the 
harbour, and the variety of objects associated 
with it 



123 



sxcuxisioar to the wsza hsad asjd 

MORWBIL ROCKS, 

Tamar loves 
To lead the voyager by breezy hills 
And soft retiiing dales, by smiling lawns, 
Bold headlands da« k with umbrage of the groves, 
By towns, and villages, and mansions fair, 
Arid rocks magnificent. 

BANKS OF TAMAR. 

The principal characteristics of the Tamar are 
its eccentric windings, and the loveliness of its 
wooded shores and rock-edged promontories. In 
scarcely any part below the Weir are both banks 
bold ; — if one side of the river displays a steep 
slope the other is almost invariably flat, which, 
perhaps, has the effect of rendering the hilly fea- 
tures more beautiful by the force of contrast. 
Gilpin, in his "Observations on the Western 
Counties," remarks that the reaches of the Tamar 
are too long. This assertion however can only 
apply to that part of the river which flows between 
Pentillie and the harbour, for above that fine 
domain the contortions of the channel present 
the tourist with a charming variety of views. 
These are indeed, frequently confined, and, in 



124 EXCURSION TO THE 

general, there is an absence of distance which is 
so essential to the formation of a complete picture ; 
but this deficiency is amply compensated by the 
sweet little home scenes — worlds of quiet and ex- 
quisite loveliness which now and then delight the 
eye. The Cornish bank is the most attractive 
and in many places, particularly at Pentillie and 
Cotehele, displays a noble massiness of leafage. 
The details of the landscapes on the Tamar are 
very pleasing. Who in sailing up this sylvan 
stream has not beheld with interest the edgings 
of rocks spotted with many lichens — the twisting 
boughs of the " druid oak," here and there pro- 
tecting some little bay from the obtrusive sun- 
light — the tangled roots of the aged trees, form- 
ing a tough net work over the face of the jagged 
cliffs — and the lonely cottage which rises with 
white washed chimney and thatched roof from 
amid the embowering greenness of graceful 
foliage. 

We shall now consider the reader embarked 
with us at Morice Town for a voyage to the Weir 
Head and Morwell Rocks — a most interesting 
summer day's excursion. Having quitted the 
landing place, we glide leisurely among the nu- 
merous noble vessels of war that rests peacefully 
on the bosom of Hamoaze, and in passing under 



WEIR HEAD, &C. 125 

their magnificently carved sterns, we shall recog- 
nise the name of many a gallant vessel renowned 
in days of yore for her prowess in the dread sea- 
fight. Voyages up the Tamar are generally com- 
menced at day-break, at which time the harbour 
is beheld under one of its most attractive aspects. 
When the sun rises the golden light from the 
East touches the masts and sides of the ships with 
mellow light, beautifully contrasted by the depth 
of shadow which the surrounding objects throw 
into the water ; while the fields, and hills, and 
buildings on shore become gradually more dis- 
tinct as the blue mists of morning roll slowly 
away on the wings of the rising breeze. Nearly 
opposite Mori ce Town is Thanckes, the seat of 
Lord Graves, grandson of the late Admiral Lord 
Graves. The house which is unassuming in its 
exterior is pleasantly situated at the head of a 
small bay, near some fine groves of ancient trees. 
On the right bank of the river are the extensive 
Government Powder Magazines connected with 
the wariike establishments of the port. Higher 
up the harbour are seen the nobly-swelling woods 
of Antony, the seat of W. P. Carew, Esq. Above 
Antony the picturespue Lynher or St. Germans 
river is beheld receding behind its romantic pro 
montaries. Opposite the mouth of the Lynher, 
m 2 



126 SALTASH, 

are the Kinterbury Powder Mills, the explosion 
of which a few years ago was attended w T ith the 
loss of two lives. The Tamar suddenly contracts 
in breadth at Saltash. This ancient borough 
town is built on the slope of a very steep hill, and 
forms a pretty object from the water. Its juris- 
diction is very extensive, the mayor holding the 
silver oar, an authority required in cases of 
arrest of persons on board vessels lying in the 
Harbour, Sound, &c. An annual fair is held 
in the town, and in 1836 a Regafta was es- 
tablished and liberally supported. The Saltash 
men and women are celebrated for their rowing, 
and carry off prizes wherever they are engaged. 
Many of the poorer inhabitants gain a livelihood 
by the gathering and sale of shellfish, which they 
carry to the town of Devonport. The ferry-house 
on the opposite shore, and the neat dwellings 
scattered along the beach, overhung with dark 
green foliage have a very pleasing effect. Con- 
tiguous to the beach is the approach to the de- 
lightful new line of road recently opened between 
Saltash, Devonport, Plymouth, and Stonehouse. 
A steam bridge on the same principle as before 
described in this work as plying between Morice 
Town and Torpoint, is also established between 
Saltash and the opposite side. The tourist will 



SALTASH. 127 

find it a pleasing walk or ride to pursue the new 
line of road from Morice Town, along the banks 
of the Tamar, keeping in view the ships in har- 
bour, the town of Torpoint, the woods of 
Thanckes and of Antony, the neat village of 
Willcove, the castle of Trematon, the St. Ger- 
mans' River—passing over the Bridge of Keyham, 
and Weston Mill Lakes — and from thence to the 
Steam Bridge, which, in six minutes, conveys 
horses and passengers without the trouble of 
dismounting, to the town of Saltash, in Cornwall 
— the reiver Tamar forming the line of separation 
between that county and Devon. Above Saltash 
the river again widens, and assumes the appear- 
ance of a broad inland lake. The bustle of the 
harbour is no more perceived, but the monotony 
of this broad sheet of water is here and there re- 
lieved by the red sail of a solitary barge, or by a 
flock of sea-gulls flapping their white Avings over 
the ripping wavelets. The surrounding scene is 
composed of richly-cultivated fields — umbrageous 
woods — fruit-hung orchards — nestling villages 
and embattled church towers rising above the 
silent dells — shelvy weed-grown shores and 
straggling copses. The eastern horizon is 
bounded by the houseless solitudes of Dartmoor, 
while, in the north, Hengest Down rises in one 
vast conical mass. 



128 LANDULPH CHURCH. 

A skilful pilot is needed to traverse with 
safety this part of the river. Immense tracts of 
mud stretch out from either side which, when 
slightly covered with water, are so extremely 
delusive that they can scarcely be distinguished 
from the deeper portions of the channel. Parties 
have frequently been detained all night on these 
flats, for if a boat once grounds on the ooze, she 
is almost always obliged to await the coming of 
the next flood tide before she can be floated off. 
We must not omit noticing the Church of St. 
Budeaux, loftily seated on the eastern bank of 
the river, exposed to the fury of every wind that 
blows. Tamerton Creek is seen winding inland 
to the little village of the same name ; and beyond 
it, on the same line of coast, is the finely- wooded 
estate of Warleigh, with its ancient mansion 
almost hidden by venerable trees. Nearly oppo- 
site Warleigh is Moditonham creek, at the head 
of which is the modern-built mansion of the late 
C. Carpenter, Esq. Not far off are the villages of 
Landulph and Botusfleming. The church of the 
latter place is a venerable structure supposed to 
have been built by Stephen de Fleming, in the 
reign of Richard I. The tower is of granite and 
ornamented with pinnacles and crosses. In the 
north aisle is the recumbent figure of a crusader 
with a sword and target. The church of Landulph 



LANDULPH CHURCH. 



129 



stands on the very edge of the water, and its 
antique embattled tower adds an interesting 
feature to the landscape. Within its walls is a 
monument of brass bearing the following inscrip- 
tion : — 

Here lyeth the body of Theodore Paleo'oj.us, 

oV Pesaro in Italy, descended frum 

ye imperial line of ye late Christian Emperors of Greece, 

bc-ino; ye sonue of Camiiio, ye sonue of Prosper, ye soiuie of 

Theodoro, ye sonneof "John, ye sonne of Thomas, 

second V. other of Constantine Paleologus, 

ye 8th of yt name, and ye last of yt line yt reigned in 

Constantinople, 

Until subdued by ye Turks ; 

who married wt Mary, ye daughter of Wiiliam Bails, of 

Hafllye, in Suffolk, gent, and had issue 5 children ; 

Theodoro, John, Ferdinando, Maria, and Dorothy, 

and departed this life at Chftun, ye 21st of Jan. l&SG. 

w; The vault below the monument having been 
opened about twenty years ago, a single oak 
coffin was discovered, which, on lifting the lid, 
was found to contain the body of Paleologus in 
so perfect a state that the features were clearly 
distinguishable. He appeared to be above the 
common height, the countenance of an oval form, 
with an aquiline nose, and he had a white beard 
of considerable length. The parish register of 
Landulph being imperfect from the year 1 628 to 
1649, has unfortunately left a degree of uncer- 
tainty with respect to Paleologus and his family. 
The Rev. R. Polwhele conjectures that he died 
at Clifton, while visiting Sir Nicholas Lower ; be 



130 PENTILLIE CASTLE. 

this as it may it does not appear that he ever pos- 
sessed the manor of Clifton, or any other estates 
in this parish."* 

Not far from Landulph is the estuary of the 
Tavy. After having passed the village of Hall's 
Hole, the hamlet of Cargreen, and the deserted 
mines of Beeralston, we speedily arrive in the 
more solitary reaches of the Tamar. The channel 
becomes considerably narrowed, and the eye ever 
and anon catches glimpses of Pentillie Castle, 
rising magnificently above the winding river. 
On approaching more closely to that lordly 
domain we cannot help being charmed by the 
varied aspect of the dark woods — the majestic air 
of the many-pinnacled building — the peaceful 
serenity of the green-swarded glen at its foot — 
and the picturesque dwellings scattered along the 
margin of the stream, 

"There is a sweet and holy transport fills 
The mind, alive to Nature's matchless charm*, 
When thus, abruptly, she unfolds to view, 
Her fine associations. Beautiful 
Art thou, Peniillie, rising o'er the flood 
That round thy foot, involved as the folds 
Of the sleek serpent, leads a mazy course, 
As though it were a pity soon to steal 
The voyager from scenes so passing fair." 

The castle was built on the site of the old 
family mansion by John Tillie Coryton, Esq. 

* Gilbert's "History ofCornwa 1 !." 



PENTILLIE CASTLE. 131 

from designs of the architect Wilkins, author of 
Ex Magna Grseca. It is in the Gothic style , 
with a lofty pinnacled portico. The interior is 
furnished in a manner suitable to the magnificence 
of its exterior appearance. 

On the summit of a conical mount near the 
house stands a small stone tower, embosomed in 
a grove of fir trees. Beneath this building are 
deposited the remains of Sir James Tillie, a 
former owner of this domain, whose interment 
in this romantic spot has given rise to the follow- 
ing strange story, extracted from "Gilpin's 
Observations on the Scenery of the West of Eng- 
land." 

4i Mr. Tillie, once the owner of Pentillie House, 
was a celebrated atheist of the last age. He was 
a man of wit, and had by rote all the ribaldry 
and commonplace jests against religion and 
scripture, which are well suited to display pert- 
ness and folly, and to unsettle a giddy mind, but 
are offensive to men of sense, whatever their 
opinions may be, and are neither intended, nor 
adapted to investigate truth. The brilliancy of 
Mr. Tillie's wit, however, carried him a degree 
further than we often meet with in the annals of 
profaneness. In general the witty atheist is 
satisfied with amusing his contemporaries, but 



132 



PENTILLIE CASTLE. 



Mr. Tillie wished to have his sprightliness known 
to posterity. With this view, in ridicule of the 
resurrection, he obliged his executors to place his 
dead body, in his usual garb, and in an elbow 
chair, upon the top of a hill, and to arrange on a 
table before him bottles, glasses, pipes and to- 
bacco. In this situation he ordered himself to 
be immured in a tower of such dimensions as he 
prescribed, where he purposed, he said, patiently 
to wait for the event. All this was done, and 
the tower, still enclosing its tenant, remains as a 
monument of his impiety and profaneness. The 
country people shudder as they go near it. 

— Religio pavidos terrebat agrestes 
Diraloci :— sylvamsaxumque tremebant. ,, 

On this tale are the following remarks in 
Gilbert's ' History of Cornwall.' " The inter- 
ment of Sir James Tillie in this romantic spot 
certainly gave rise to many ridiculous stories, to 
which an air of probability has been given by the 
narrative of Gilpin. But nothing can be more 
false than his account of the body having been 
placed in a chair, with a table, laid cut before it 
with bottles, glasses, &c. On the contrary, the 
body was placed in a coffin and deposited in a 
vault ; and the choice of situation will not appear 
strange when it is considered that in the room 



COTEHELE HOUSE. 133 

above Sir James Tillie had, perhaps, enjoyed the 
happiest hours of his life. His last will and tes- 
tament has late]y been examined by his heirs at 
Doctors' Commons, and in this document it is 
observable that, so far from his principles being 
atheistical, they breathe throughout a disposition 
fraught with the utmost submission to the will of 
Divine Providence, and a perfect confidence in 
the wisdom and mercies of the Creator." 

It will not indeed be difficult for those who 
have experienced how strongly the heart is 
attached in after life to scenes beloved in youth 
to account for the wish of Sir James Tillie to be 
buried on this ' fir-clad mount.' Perhaps he was 
wont to sit there in the rosy flush of morning, 
gazing with rapture on the sun-gilded woods and 
the winding river glittering at his feet ; — evening 
may have found him gliding in his pinnace along 
the indentations of the leaf-hung shores, and often 
may the pale moon have shed her poetical light 
on his lone delighted wanderings among the green 
and solitary glades of Pentillie. 

We shall find nothing worthy of particular no- 
tice till we arrive at Cotehele. The woods are 
here truly noble, and clothe the bank nearly down 
to the water's edge. Having disembarked, we 
wind through a dark bough-canopied lane to 

N 



134 COTEHELE HOUSE. 

Cotehele House. This mansion is too interesting 
a relic of the days that are gone to be passed by 
with slight observation, and we trust that our 
readers will bear with us while we indulge in our 
love of venerable antiquity, by entering into a 
somewhat detailed description of this interesting 
baronial residence. It was erected about the reign 
of Henry VII. It is seated loftily, and is sur- 
rounded by trees of the most majestic stature and 
shadowy massiness of foliage. Among these are 
some fine specimens of the Spanish chesnut. 
" The tree," says Gilpin, '* on which Salvator 
Rosa has hung Edipus, is exactly one of them."* 
From the date 1627 being carved over the door- 
way, it is conjectured that the building under- 
went some repairs in that year. This renovation 
however must have been very trifling, since the 
air of the mansion conveys the idea of great and 
undeniable antiquity. It is quaintly described by 
Carew as " anciente, large, stronge, and fayre, 
and appurtenanced with the necessaries of woode, 
water, fishing, parkes, and milles, withe the devo- 
tion (in times past) of a riche furnished chapelle, 
and charitie of almes houses for certaine poore 
people whiche the owners used to relieve." The 
general appearance of Cotehele is something be- 

■ * " Observations on the Western Counties." 



COTEHELE HOUSE. 135 

tween the old manor-house and feudal castle. 
The features which chiefly strike the eye are 
several square embattled towers, grey with the 
rust of many ages, and which contain some of the 
principal apartments. The walls are most pic- 
turesquely lichened, and here and there a shoot 
of dark green ivy, or a tuft of moss more than 
usually bright, affords a relief to the sombre tint 
of years which, perhaps, would otherwise offend 
by monotony the eye of taste. It would be im- 
possible to describe the feeling of silence and of 
solitude that broods over this interesting spot 
Though situated close to the busy scenes of a 
navigable river, it is as completely hidden from 
public observation as if it were buried in the 
depths of an untrodden wilderness. Nothing dis- 
turbs the stillness but now and then the cooing of 
a domestic pigeon, or the wilder gush of melody 
poured forth by some untamed minstrel of the 
leafy forest ; — and in short every thing that meets 
the eye — every sound that falls upon the ear, con- 
spires to delight the imagination with a dream of 
departed days. 

The entrance to the house is through a Gothic 
moorstone arch- way, leading into a quadrangular 
court from which the spectator is enabled to take 
a more minute survey of the various parts of the 



136 COTEHELE HOUSE. 

edifice, A large pinnacled and embattled tower 
is the principal feature. The windows are lat- 
ticed and rather heavy in appearance. Access is 
obtained to the different rooms through a Gothic 
hall, in which are preserved a number of very- 
interesting curiosities. The light is admitted 
through windows dimmed by painted armorial 
bearings much injured by time. The walls are 
covered w T ith suits of ancient armour, eleven of 
which are complete ; — with arquebusses, pikes, 
halberts, swords, bows and arrows, and other 
offensive and defensive instruments of warfare. 
Besides these are numerous trophies of woods- 
craft, consisting of pairs of branching stags' 
horns, &c. At the south end of the hall, at some 
distance from the ground, is the figure of an 
ancient warrior "in complete steel" and nearly 
as large as life. 

The interior of the mansion is shewn to 
strangers by the housekeeper. An hour or 
two cannot be more delightfully spent than in 
exploring the chambers of Cotehele. The original 
furniture being carefully preserved in its pristine 
state, almost every thing that strikes the atten- 
tion awakens recollections of the long flown age 
of romance. The rooms are hung with tapestry, 
the work of fair fingers now mouldered into dust. 



COTEHELE HOUSE. 13/ 

Some of the subjects represented are the loves of 
Hero and Leander, passages in the lives of Ro- 
mulus and Remus, St. George of England, and 
Eurydice bitten by a serpent. One of the doors 
opening into the hall conducts to a massive stone 
stair-case, ornamented with grim, decaying por- 
traits of some long-forgotten personages of the 
olden time. A sleeping apartment in the northern 
tower is said to have been occupied several nights 
by Charles II. If his majesty possessed a taste 
for the picturesque, he must have been much 
gratified by the lovely prospect which the win- 
dow of this room commands. 

The house contains a great quantity of antique 
furniture and other curiosities of the most inter- 
esting description. Among these are some rich 
old bed hangings, a variety of ancient china, a 
Saxon sword about two feet long, a music book 
dated 1556, a painting of the Adoration executed 
in 1569, rudely carved ebony chairs, curiously 
ornamented brass fire-dogs more than four feet 
high, earthenware drinking vessels of great age 5 
an ancient cabinet, with many other rare articles, 
the enumeration of which would be tedious. 
There are no grates in the apartments, the fires 
having been always kindled on the hearths. 

Connected with the house is a small chapel* 
n 2 



138 COTEHELt HOUSE. 

over which is a pinnacled and battlemented 
turret, containing a place for hells, formerly used 
to summon the neighbouring vassals to join in 
the devotions of the Coteils. In the Gothic win- 
dow over the altar are the armorial bearings 
of Edgcumbe, Rame, Durnford, Pole, Carew, 
Prideaux, and other families emblazoned in 
stained glass now in a state of extreme mutila- 
tion. The altar displays a neat crucifix, and its 
velvet furniture is very rich. One of the cloths 
is embroidered with the figures of the twelve 
apostles. This little place of prayer contains two 
portraits, representing, it has been supposed, Sir 
Thomas de Cotehele, the last male heir of the 
family, and Helena his sister, who became the 
wife of William de Edgcumbe. 

Not far from the house is another chapel, with 
which is identified a true and romantic legend. 
It is situated on a bold turf-clad rock that juts 
out into the Tamar, and is almost hidden from 
observation by the untamed luxuriance of over- 
hanging foliage. It was built in the reign of 
Henry VII. Its origin is explained by the fol- 
lowing extract from Carew's Survey of Cornwall, 
inscribed on the northern wall of the interior. 
" Sir Richard Edgcumbe was driven to hide him- 
self in these his thicke woodes whiche overlook 



COTEHELE HOUSE. 139 

the river ; at whiche tyme, being suspected of 
favouring the Earl of Richmond's party against 
Richard III., he was hotly pursued and narrowly 
searched for; whiche extremity taught him a 
sudden policy, to put a stone into his cap, and 
tumble the same into the water, while these 
rangers were fast at his heeles, who, looking 
down after the noyse, and seeing his cap swim- 
ming thereon, supposed that he had desperately 
drowned himselfe, and gave over their further 
hunting, and left him at liberty to shift away and 
ship into Bretagne ; for a grateful remembrance 
of whiche delivery he afterwards builded in the 
place of his lurking a chappel." This fabric, as 
is the case with most votive erections, is very 
small. It contains several old paintings and some 
antique carved work. The east window is en- 
riched by stained glass, and on the south wall is 
a painted tablet representing the monument of 
the founder* of the chapel, who died at Morlaix 
in Bretagne, on his return from a public em- 
bassy to France, and was buried in the convent 
church of that town. 

Near Cotehele house is a narrow glen called 
Danescombe, which derives its name from the 



* Sir Richard Edgcumbe was comptroller of the household to Henry 
VII., by whom he was knighted at ihe battle of Boswonhfield. 



140 COTEHELE HOtJSE. 

Danes having passed through it in the year 834, 
on their way to Hengest Down, about two miles 
off, where, having been joined by the Cornish 
Britons, the united forces fought a desperate 
battle with the Saxons under King Egbert, when 
the latter proved victorious. Several sepulchral 
barrows on Hengest Down still point out the 
scene of this affray.* On an elevated part of 
Cotehele grounds is a lofty tower, affording a 
most extensive and finely varied view. 

After this long digression, which, however, it 
is hoped, has not proved altogether uninteresting* 
we will return to our boat. Not far from the 
quay at which we re-embark we catch a glimpse 
of Sir Richard Edgcumbe's chapel, just described. 
The aspect of the scenery at this part of the river 
is exceedingly impressive. The woods swell up 
in magnificent masses, displaying every hue and 
disposition of foliage. The rocks that edge the 
bank are picturesquely lichened, and, when the 
river presents an unruffled surface, are mirrored 
in the flood with pleasing fidelity. The effect of 
evening music in this spot is enchanting. The 
tones echo pensively through the hollow sounding 
woods, and the harmonious cadences die beauti- 



* One or two of these tombs were opened a few years since. In oue 
of thera were found a skull and some other human bones. 



CALSTOCK, &C. 141 

fully away among the winding reaches of the 
stream. 

On turning a reedy point of land we behold 
the village of Calstock. The church is seated on 
the summit of a steep slope and commands a noble 
view of the sinuous Tamar and its charming 
banks. It may be mentioned, as an instance of 
the extraordinary manner in which the stream 
winds, that after the voyager has sailed five miles 
above Calstock he again arrives immediately be- 
neath the church of that village, the long ridge- 
like peninsula on which it stands being washed 
on both sides by the waters of the Tamar. 

The attention is soon attracted to Harewood 
House, the mansion of Sir W. S. Trelawny, bart, 
pleasantly seated on a fertile tongue of land, 
which, according to tradition, is the scene of the 
well-known story of Ethehvald and Elfrida. This 
historical fact is thus quaintly related by Risdon, 
w r ho, however, describes it to have taken place at 
Tavistock, about four miles distant from Hare- 
wood. Tavystoke is the chief place upon Ta- 
vye's banks where, in the dayes of Edgar, the first 
unresisted monarch of this lande, Orgarius, Earl 
of Devon, kept his court ; the echo of whose faire 
daughter Elfleda's beauty sounded so loude in the 
king's ears, that it caused him to employ Ethel- 



142 HAREWOOD. 

wald his minion to woo her in his behalfe, to be 
dignified with the title of a queene ; but, as some- 
tyme it falleth out, there is falsehoode in fellow- 
shipp, this earle sued unto her for himselfe, and 
that with good liking of her father, so as the 
king would consent, unto whom he returned this 
answer, that, '* the lady came farr short of such 
perfection as fame gave out, and in noe wise for 
feature fitt for a king :" whereupon Edgar, mis- 
trusting noe double dealing, soone consented, and 
Orgarius gave his daughter to Ethel wald in mar- 
riage ; after which her beauty was more liberally 
spoken of than before ; whereof King Edgar, 
taking notice, came into Devonshire under colour 
of hunting to visit Duke Orgarius ; which being 
apprehended by Ethelwald, he discovered the 
truth to his lady, and earnestly besought her to 
save his life from the king's danger; but she, 
shewing herself a true woman, desired nothing 
more than the thing forbidden, dressing herself 
with costlie ornaments to attend the coming of 
the king, whom, with an amiable grace, she 
entertained ; which so inflamed his desires that, 
palliating his affection for the present, he went 
forth an hunting, where, at a place called Wil- 
verly, since War le wood, the earle was found 
slaine with an arrow (as some will) others with 



MORWELHAM. 



143 



a javelin, and shortly after king Edgar took the 
fay re Elfleda for his queene." 

The view of that part of the river which sweeps 
round the peninsula of Harewood, as seen from 
the southern extremity of Morwell Down, is 
strikingly interesting. The delighted eye wan- 
ders over an expanse of green woods —cultured 
fields — cottages, scattered in all directions, half 
embosomed in trees, or standing forth boldly dis- 
tinct on the undulating slopes — streamlets glit- 
tering through the meadows — the broad river 
winding at the foot of precipitous banks — hand- 
some mansions and modest farm-houses— all com- 
bining in the composition of a picture of no 
ordinary beauty. The weather beaten tow T er of 
Calstock church is a prominent and picturesque 
object, and the village of Morwelham looks well 
standing on Tamar's marge. The only unplea- 
sant features in the scene are the unsightly heaps 
of rubbish, thrown up from the mines on the 
Cornish bank. 

By no means, gentle tourist, think of proceeding 
farther by water than Morwelham. Before you 
reach that spot you will have had enough of 
gliding in your pleasure boat by rock-edged pro- 
montory, leaf- hung slope, and smooth verdurous 
meadow, so disembark and indulge in a stroll 



144 MORWELHAM. 

through a combination of natural objects much of 
whose grandeur is lost when beheld from the 
stream. Having inspected 'the inclined plane 
and other machinery connected with the termin- 
ation of the Tavistock canal, you follow a path 
which leads along the margin of the Tamar to- 
wards Newbridge. You speedily enter the 
bosomy depths of a wood, and having wandered 
for a short distance along a track almost over- 
grown with tangly bushes, you emerge at the 
base of a bare mass of perpendicular rock which 
rises from the edge of the footway to an immense 
height. There is nothing however remarkably 
attractive in this cliff, for its form, though im- 
pressive, is not sufficiently hung with the tressery 
of climbing plants to endear it to the eye either 
of the poet or the painter. In autumn it is beau- 
tiful to remark the young trees and shrubs which 
skirt the margin of the river. The beneficent 
Spirit of nature has showered some of his 
choicest gifts on this spot, and though there are 
those who could pass them with the apathy of 
Wordsworth's Peter Bell, to whom " a primrose 
was a a primrose and nothing more," do not you, 
gentle tourist, suffer yourself to lie under such an 
imputation. Rather gaze with prolonged delight 
on the light branches and delicate leaves of the 



THE MORWELL ROCKS, 145 ^8 

moutain-ash, hanging out its graceful clusters of 
berries whose hue wavers between that of the 
bright red coral and the tint of the inmost rose 
leaf; behold the luxuriant bindweed, twisting up 
into the boughs of the spreading sycamore, so 
hiding its intrusive stem amid the foliage, that 
the flowers of the parasite plant seem to bloom on 
the supporting tree and not on their fragile pa- 
rent stalk. Here and there is a berry-bearing 
alder, filled with the blossoms of the climbing 
woobbine— while, perhaps, a tender shoot, that 
has fixed its firm tendrils around a topmost 
branch, flings on the passing breeze the weight 
of one lone fragrant coronet. We must not for- 
get to observe the willow that droops so sweetly 
pensive over the steep bank — nor the dark glos- 
siness of the Devonshire myrtle — nor the tall and 
speckled elegance of the crimson fox- glove : and, 
as you proceed, you may now and then, by 
pulling aside the boughs, peep into a deeply 
shaded minature bay, formed by the waters of 
the Tamar — a nook so silent and so solitary, that 
a Naiad might not disdain to bless it with the 
presence of her virgin beauty. 

After you have followed the road a few steps 
farther, look up, and, through the interstices of 
the foliage, you will behold the Morwell Rocks 



146 THE MORWELL ROCKS. 

towering in all their wild sublimity many hun- 
dreds of feet above your head. You are bathed 
in the partial gloom of aged trees, but the Mor- 
well Rocks — those magnificent minarets of Na- 
ture's temple — are bathing their scathed brows in 
the quiet and unobstructed splendour of the sunny 
heavens. Their bases are planted in an expanse 
of foliage that heaves in swells like the mighty 
ocean; and the trees surge up the sides of the 
cliffs as if they would drown the weather stained 
peaks in a beautiful profusion of leaves and 
boughs. The impending precipices are not devoid 
of those softer attractions which nature sprinkles 
over the most desolate regions. In the rifted 
crevices, which seem to have been torn asunder 
by an earthquake, the hardy oak and the moun- 
tain-ash have fixed their firm roots ; — the ivy 
twists its tough tendrils round many a knobbed 
projection, hallowing it with greenness ;— spotted 
are the cliffs with lichens of a thousand different 
hues ; nor absent is the loveliness of the heath- 
bell — the brilliantly glowing furze — or the ten- 
derer blossoms of the pale woodbine. Mocking 
the works of man, rises the Chimney Rock, 
bearing, in conjunction with its base, a rude 
resemblance to a human dwelling ; but nature, in 
her wild mimickry, has displayed such vast pro- 






THE MOKWELL ROCKS. 147 

portions, and wrought with materials so imper- 
vious to the batterings of the elements, as to 
throw an air of insignificance over the puny pro- 
ductions of mortal architects. The savage hawk 
sometimes springs from his impregnable eyrie and 
sails slowly over the mountain woods which he 
claims as his own peculiar heritage, uttering now 
and then a scream of savage joy, which scares 
Silence from her majestic abode. His voice is 
not, however, the only sound that haunts this ro- 
mantic wilderness. Loiter on the skirts of the 
wood and you will hear the jay shrieking from 
his shadowy palace in the old oak tree, the grass- 
hopper fills the ferny under forest with " the 
poetry of earth ;" and, if you listen attentively, 
you will perhaps distinguish the " quiet tune" of 
a hidden rivulet which, having gushed up at the 
foot of a moss-skirted rock, works its way through 
bright weeds and beautiful flowers till it empties 
its feeble urn into the bosom of the broad Tamar. 
You presently arrive at the Weir Head, where 
the fresh waters of the Tamar fall over an artifi- 
cial ledge of rocks which stretches from bank to 
bank. At this spot will be perceived the junction 
of two paths — take that which leads towards 
Newbridge and you will descend into an Alpine 
valley, deep, narrow, and woody, and eloquent 



148 THE WEIR HEAD, &C. 

with the voice of a foaming torrent which brawls 
from rock to rock adown the precipitous slopes. 
Immediately in front of you is a ruined building" 
which, being deserted by man, has been claimed 
by Nature as her own, for she has thrown around 
its mouldering walls her mantle of ivy, and gilded 
the decaying masonry with her thousand fanciful 
mosses and lichens. Seek not, poetical tourist, 
to divine the original purpose of this old fabric, 
lest you scare away a whole host of romantic as- 
sociations. Though it may have been only a 
miner's hut, what is -that to thee, if, in the rich- 
ness of thy imagination, thou canst transform it 
into a crumbling hermitage, in which some lone 
recluse wore away a long life of penance and 
prayer ; — or the only remaining tower of a feudal 
castle whose halls once resounded with the clash 
of arms and the antique music of the minstrel ; — 
or a sainted cloister, in which some fair pious 
nun pined away her beautiful existence, like a 
heath-bell that springs up, blooms, and decays in 
the crevice of an inaccessible rock. Linger 
awhile in this picturesque retreat — nay struggle 
onward to the very head of the valley. The trees 
bear noble canopies of leafage, and under their 
shade you might sit, even in the burning fervour 
of noon, and Apollo would not be able to dart a 



VALLEY ABOVE THE WEIR HEAD. 149 

single ray upon your cheek. Here is the gnarled 
oak, with its immensity of bough and darkness of 
foliage ; — the elm, whose very trunk is bursting 
into leaf; — the rough barked elder ; — the hazel, 
rich in brown cluster of milky nuts ; — and the 
holly, whose glossy greenness cheers the winter 
with an image of the departed season of flowers 
and songs. What can be more beautiful than 
the wortleberry bush, with its globules of purple 
juice — the briar, " wi its mantle o' green" — or 
what more refreshing to the eye than the foam 
bells that gather on the bosom of the turbulent 
water ? Hark ! the bee is abroad on his sunny 
errand ; — and the butterfly flits splendidly through 
the bowery shade, A sudden whirr of wings an- 
nounces that you have frighted a pair of wood 
pigeons from their home among the beech trees ; 
the roar of the cataract did not prevent their 
watchful ears from catching the sound of your 
approach, and they are flown to some lonelier 
wood afar — afar; — but in the dim hour of eve 
they will assuredly return to this their most be- 
loved haunt, and coo a plaintive song to the pale 
vesper star, when its tender radiance trembles 
meekly through the gathering twilight. 

Throw a parting glance on the old ruin, — the 
echoing torrent,— the shadowy trees, — the tall 
o 2 



150 VALLEY ABOVE THE WEIR HEAD. 

rock, garlanded with ivy and honeysuckles, — and 
return to the junction of the two paths already 
alluded to.* Follow that which leads up the 
hill till you arrive at a streamletf that crosses the 
road, in its way to turn the machinery of a mine, 
at a short distance from the spot. Its channel is 
the work of art, and it is carried along the whole 
range of the Morwell Rocks, round the brink of 
tremendous precipices, and sometimes through 
tunnels perforating the solid cliff. Fear not, 
however, to trace its course, for the track by its 
side is firm and unerrring, and will lead you 
through a variety of scenery whose sublimity will 
fully recompense your labour. This path is un- 
trodden save by those who seek to behold Nature 
in her primitive, though attractive wildness, there- 
fore you will find the gossamer thread stretching 
unbroken from bush to bush ; — the bramble 
weaves its prickly barrier as a snare for unwary 
feet ; — nay, start not though the harmless snake* 
not dreaming of intruders, should bask in the 
sunshine that beams across your path, for when 
he hears the sound of your footstep he will as- 

* If the tourist can spare time he will do well to visit Newbridge, 
which is not quite half a mile above the Weir. The road which leads 
to it possesses much sylvan beauty. 

+ Since the above was written, this stream has been diverted from 
its couiee, and the channel is becoming overgrown with luxuriant 
vegetation. 



THE M0RWELL ROCKS. 151 

suredly rustle affrightedly away to his home in the 
weedy bank. It is not long before you arrive at 
the back of the Chimney Rock, which you mount 
over by the assistance of a flight of rude steps. 
For a while you lose sight of the stream which 
here flows through its first tunnel; having de- 
cended on the other side, you find it emerging 
from its temporary concealment. At a short dis- 
tance from this spot the rivulet plunges into 
another cavern, and the path once more abrubtly 
ascends in zig-zag flights of steps. You speedily 
attain the summit of a very elevated crag, from 
which you are presented with a noble view of the 
landscape beneath. The repose of the scene is 
most interesting — undisturbed, except by the 
whisperings of the breeze — the scream of a lonely 
hawk— or the faint note of some woodland cho- 
rister. At an immense distance below the rude 
platform on which you stand is an extensive ex* 
panse of wood — a perfect forest, stretching from 
the top of its slope to its base, and thence across 
the whole extent of level land on the eastern 
bank of the Tamar. Looking southward you be- 
hold the river* winding away amid flat meadows, 
backed by the lofty ridge on which stands the 
exposed church of Calstock. On the left bank is 
a continuation of the Morwell woods$ divided 



152 TtlE MORWELL ROCKS. 

from the river by one solitary strip of rich mea- 
dow. The many sequestered cottages which are 
scattered around strike the eye by their peculiar 
neatness and air of deep seclusion. The base of 
a part of the wooded precipice on the Morwell 
side is washed by the Tamar, which here makes 
a sudden bend round a forest-like peninsula. One 
cliff rises perpendicularly from the water— a fear- 
fully impending mass it is when gazed at from 
below, though when viewed from the rugged 
elevations above, it dwindles into comparative 
insignificance ; but if a boat or barge happen to 
float along at its foot, you gain an idea of its true 
magnitude. 

The mind is not, however, long employed in 
contemplating the distant objects of vision; — it 
recurs again and again to the wind-worn crags 
that frown close to the eye. Nature in her ter- 
rible playfulness has given to some of the rocks the 
semblances of ruined buildings ; but, while she 
has mimicked the works of art, she has placed 
her rude imitations in situations so savage and 
inaccessible as to stamp them the work of her 
own hand, Bough-shaded caverns —wildly nod- 
ding trees — rocks ready to topple down into the 
valley — the stream winding round the edges of 
fearful precipices and through rifted chasms— the 



THE MORWELL ROCKS. 



153 



hawk — the kite— the blue sky and sun-tinged 
clouds fill the soul with deep and inexpressible 
emotion. The highest ridge in sight is crested 
with a row of loftier trees than those around ; — 
and when you attempt to look into the darkness 
of that wood your eye is completely bewildered 
by the maziness of the thickly planted trunks.* 
Here and there, hanging by its tough and en- 
during roots from the fissure of an exposed rock 
may be seen the twisted bole of a dead oak which, 
having perished through old age, whitens and 
moulders away in the destroying tempests of 
succeeding winters. 

It was in scenes like these — in the savage 
haunts of the Abruzzi mountains — that Salvator 
Rosa, " ilfamoso pittore delle cose morale" im- 
bibed those images of grandeur which, embodied 
in his divine pictures, still continue to delight the 
world. Noble Salvator ! who in wandering 
through a landscape so congenial to thy fine ge- 
nius can help recalling to memory the incidents 
of thy eventful life, and the enchantments of thy 
bold pencil ? — thy lonely towers, and mountains 



* Behind ihls wood, at the distance of -\ bout a furlong, isMorwelham 
House, once a hunting sea', of the Abbots of Tavistock It is now in- 
habited by a farmer, but its massive stone archesand crumbling carved 
work bespeak its antiquity and former importance It is an imerestin^ 
relic of the olden time, and we:l worthy (he inspection of the tourist. 



154 THE M0RWLLL ROCKS. 

dark with the greenness of the rustling pine — 
thy bursting torrents — thy wave-lashed sea shores 
— thy skies full of turbulent majesty — thy fierce 
bandits, reclining in jealous watchfulness among 
the fastnesses of their solitary home ! 

Having again taken the miner's rivulet for 
your guide, and wandered for a short distance 
through a scene which changes its aspect at 
almost every step, you arrive at a little foot 
bridge. Follow a path which turns off to the 
right, and it will lead yoa through the woods to 
Morwelham. Think not of returning home, how- 
ever, before the landscape is bathed in the thou- 
sand hues of sunset — or even till the misty twilight 
has faded into night ; for as you glide in your 
bark adown the smooth stream, the placid sky 
above — the light beaming from the cottage win- 
dow — the plash of the oar — and the shrill lone 
cry of the curlew among the water rushes, shall 
fill your bosom with calm and pensive delight, 
the memory of which will often be as refreshing 
in the hurry of after life as " the shadow of a tall 
rock in a weary land." 



155 



EXCURSION FROM DEVONPORT TO 
BUCELAND MONACHORUM 

(Through the Vale of the Tavy.) 

— the shores 
Of Tavy lack not aught that may enchant 
The eye of him who, in the summer hour, 
Delights to steer his bark where Nature spreads 
Her fairest pastures. — He may wind his way 
When darts the beam of noon upon his head, 
And find a refuge in the friendly gloom 
Of hisih umbrageous cliffs. The clamorous voice 
Of commerce will not reach him there ! no sounds 
Break on the deep tranquillity but those 
Which from the woodland melodists arise 
The thrilling lays of liberty aud love. 

BANKS OF TAMA It. 

Leaving Devonport by the oldSaltash road, we 
speedily arrive at Weston Mill, a little hamlet 
deeply seated in a thickly foliaged vale, at the 
head of a creek in the Tamar. Its turnpike- 
house, overshadowed by trees — its lichened 
bridge — its leafy lanes, stealing away into haunts 
of sylvan loveliness — and the lofty hills which rise 
around form an interesting picture of peaceful 
seclusion, seldom found in the immediate neigh- 
bourhood of a populous town. The creek presents 
an extremely gratifying scene when the tide is 
up, and is gently rippling round the rock- edged 



156 EMINENCE ABOVE WESTON MILL. 

promontories. It then possesses all the charms 
of a sequestered lake, and is seldom without a 
rude boat, or perhaps a rustic barge, to add to 
the genera] effect. 

Bidding adieu to Weston Mill, we toil up the 
steep road leading to King's Tamerton. About 
half way up the ascent we enter some path fields 
on the right, by the aid of a flight of steps, and, 
on gaining the highest point of the eminence, we 
overlook a noble and extensive landscape. The 
principal features are the harbour and its nume- 
rous ships of war ; — the towns of Plymouth and 
Devonport, reposing in a smoky haze ; — the Dock 
Yard and its many huge roofs ; — the Sound with 
its rocky isle and mighty Breakwater ; — the lofty 
heights of Staddon;— the Mewstone " dark in 
the bright sunshine ;" and the woody peninsula 
of Mount Edgcumbe. Towards the east are the 
rock-strewed hills of Dartmoor; and close be- 
neath the gaze is the sweetly tranquil hamlet of 
Weston Mill, the clustering trees half enclosing 
the rural dwellings in a leafy embrace. On the 
west are beheld the beautiful promontories of the 
winding Lynher. 

Passing the pleasant village of King's Tamer- 
ton, we speedily attain St. Budeaux or St, Bude, 
consisting of a few not very picturesque dwellings, 



ST. BUDE. 157 

scattered on the brow of an exposed hill.* The 
church is a plain looking edifice of heavy architec- 
ture. From the church-yard we command a fine 
reach of the Tamar, and a wide extent of culti- 
vated country. The river spreads into a broad 
sheet, generally enlivened by the sails of boats or 
barges. At its northern extremity are the mines 
of Beeralston, behind which, in the distance, Hen- 
gest Down swells boldly up. The Cornish bank 
displays a rich expanse of fields, glowing with 
almost every shade of colour that characterizes the 
English landscape. Part of the eastern shore is 
clothed by the umbrageous wood of Warleigh. 

St. Budeaux formerly possessed a highly ec- 
centric character in the person of Mr. Thomas 
Alcock, who was rector of the parish for more 
than sixty years. " The principal shade in. his 
character was a rigid penuriousness which de- 
prived him of many of the comforts of existence. 
The homeliness of his dwelling no description 
can exceed : every article of modern convenience 
was excluded. His drawing room was a miserable 

* The name of this place was formerly Bndock, from Budockshed, 
(Budock's hide), now abbreviated into Bndshed, and anglicized into 
Budeaux. The elevated common opposite ihe church has been pre- 
served from inciosure as parish property^ under tiie names of Plaistor 
or Piaiston, and Agaton Green, 1 he former designation indicating the 
purpose of its appropriaiion. An extant deed ot the 8th of Elizabeth, 
by Roger Budockshed, grants this green *' wheron the church now' 
stand eth," as well as the sice of the "residence house," as sporting 
ground for the parish for the term of 2000 years. 



158 ST. BUDE. 

bed chamber, with walls that once were white- 
washed, and where nothing appeared in oppo- 
sition to their simplicity. Here he boiled his 
coffee, toasted his cakes, and entertained his guests 
at the same time, who forgot in the charms of his 
conversation, the wretched apartment they were 
in, and the yellow time-worn bed on which some 
of them, perhaps, were obliged to sit instead of a 
sofa. His sermons abounded with Latin and 
Greek quotations, and passages from the English 
poets : even the treasures of private epistolary 
correspondence contributed to the instruction of 
his congregation. Among the other singularities 
which occurred in his preaching, it should not be 
omitted that he delivered his own wife's funeral 
sermon. The few works which he published 
evince much genius, and his memoirs of Dr. 
Nathan Alcock, his brother, are an admirable 
piece of biography." 

In pursuing our excursion across the fields to- 
wards Tamer ton, at a short distance from St. 
Budeaux, we enter Budshed Wood ; and it is 
not long before the path conducts us to the head 
of an inlet branching off from the Tamerton 
creek. This is a beautifully seduded little glen, 
breathing an air of the deepest repose and afford- 
ing a delightful scene of leafy headland and 



I 



TAMERTON. 159 

shelvy beach, A shallow stream murmurs down 
into this retired dell, crossed by a rustic bridge, 

V A simple plank and by its side a rail. 
On either hand, to ^uide the footsteps frail 
Of hist or second childhood.'' 

Near this spot, and standing on the margin of 
the creek, is the simply elegant rural dwelling of 
Robert Ellery, Esq. late Commissioner's Secretary 
of H, M. Dock- Yard at Devonport, 

Tamerton — a considerable village, deeply seated 
in a fertile valley — next attracts the attention. 
Connected with an aged oak near the eastern end 
of the church-yard wall, is the following legend, 
copied verbatim from Prince's " Worthies of 
Devon : " " Esquire Coplestone of Warley (I 
can't recover his Christian name altho' I suppose 
it was John) in the days of Queen Elizabeth 
had a young man to his godson that had been 
abroad for his education ; who, at his return 
home, hearing of the extravagancies of his god- 
father's conversation, expressed in some company 
his sorrowful resentment of it, which was not 
done so privately but the report thereof was soon 
brought (as therebe tale-bearers and whisperers 
which separate very friends enough every where) 
to his godfather's ears. This exceedingly en- 
kindled the indignation of the old gentleman 
against his godson, and (as 'twas supposed) his 



160 TAMER TON. 

natural son also ; making him break out saying 
" Must boys observe and descant on the actions of 
men and of their betters ? From henceforth he re- 
solved and sought al] opportunities to be revenged 
of him. At length they being both at Tamerton, 
their parish church, on a Lord's day, the young 
man observing by his countenance what he was 
partly informed of before, that his godfather was 
highly displeased at him, prudently withdrew be- 
times from the church, and resolved to keep him- 
self out of his reach until his indignation should 
be overpassed, The old gentleman, seeing his 
revenge likely to be disappointed, sent the young 
man word that his anger towards him was now 
over, and he might return to his church again : 
accordingly the young man came at the usual 
time, but cautiously eyeing his godfather, he 
found the expression of the poet too true 

Manet a'te raente lepostura, 

that his displeasure was not laid aside but laid up in 
a deep revengeful mind ; whereupon, as soon as 
the duties of religion were over, he again hastened 
out of the church, as soon as he could : upon this 
his godfather followed him, but not being able to 
overtake him, he threw his dagger after him (the 
wearing whereof was the mode of those times) and 
struck him through the reins of the back, so that 



WARLEIGH. 161 

he fell and died on the spot." The ( "oplestone oak 
under which this sanguinary deed is said to have 
been committed, is still a flourishing tree and 
likely to stand many years longer. The legend, 
with some slight fictitious variation, has been 
woven into a beautiful metrical tale by the Rev. 
Mr. Johns, of Crediton, and published in the New 
Monthly Magazine for September, 1825. The 
tradition is yet current in the vicinity. 

" Still to the oak of Copiestone 

The neighbouring peasant points his boy, 
Tells him the deed that there was done, 

And warns fiom passions that destroy »" 

Having left Tamerton, we proceed northward 
towards Maristow, the road to which being rather 
intricate will render it necessary for the stranger 
to make frequent enquiries as he proceeds. Not 
far from Tamerton is Warleigh House, described 
by Risdon as '* a seat both pleasant and profitable, 
situated by the Tamar side, having a fair demesne 
and a park adjoining, wanting no necessaries that 
land or sea afford. " It stands in a beautiful spot 
near the junction of the Tavy and Tamar. This 
estate, in the reign of king Stephen, was the 
principal residence of the ancient family of Foliat, 
from whom it passed to the Coplestons. It is 
now the property of the Rev. R. Radcliffe. 

Continuing our tour towards Maristow, we 
p 2 



162 MARISTOW, 

soon arrive at the little pavillion* in Warleigh 
Wood. It is an unassuming erection, open to the 
north west, and contains seats for the accommo- 
dation of travellers. This spot commands a plea- 
sant view. On the opposite shore is the modest 
hamlet of Beer Ferris with its antique church, 
standing close to the water side. In the dis- 
tance is beheld the mansion of Maristow, seated 
in the midst of foliaged hills, while in the 
extreme horizon rushes up a picturesque moor- 
land peak. 

Maristow house, which is speedily attained, 
stands in a sheltered lawn, and is the seat of Sir 
R. F. Lopes, bart. Immediately in front of the 
mansion is an embankment by which a consider- 
able portion of land was gained from the bed of 
the river a few years since. On the opposite 
steep and thickly wooded shore is a mine, which, 
if it continue to be worked, will deform the 
beauty of the domain by unsightly heaps of 
rubbish. 

Close to Maristow, at the bottom of a leafy 
dingle, is the small village of Lophill. The mill 
is seated in a sweetly secluded nook, and when 
the water is foaming over the wheel in snowy 

* This pavillion lias been nearly demolished of Lite years by some 
mischievous visitors-. 



TALE OF THE TAVY. 163 

volumes, presents a very interesting appearance. 
Not far from the mill is an antique sun-dial at the 
top of a granite pillar, now almost undermined; 
the ground near it having been considerably 
lowered, This dial, with many others still 
standing in the neighbouring fields, was erected 
by Sir Francis Drake, the renowned circumnavi- 
gator of the world, during his residence at his 
adjoining estate of Buckland Abbey. 

Above this spot the Tavy begins to assume an 
inland character. The western bank is skirted 
by soft luxuriant meadows which slope down to 
the beach, backed by dark and shadowy woods. 
Here and there rise fine picturesque masses of 
rock, hung with ivy and beautifully lichened, add- 
ing an additional attraction to the landscape by 
the perfect reflection which they throw into the 
clear sheet of water below. % It is interesting to 
remark the gradations with which the river re- 
signs the features it owes to its proximity to the 
sea. The edging of slate between the base of 
the woods and the shelvy beach becomes less 
wave-worn and more ornamented with delicate 
plants and mosses— the tall salt reed disappear — 
the bed of the water is no longer composed of 
muddy ooze, but of blue and yellow pebbles— the 
tangles of ocean weed are less frequently observed 



164 VALE OF THE TAVY. 

— till at length all that remains to remind us of 
the u salt sea wave" is the red sail of a barge in 
the distance, or perhaps a wild gull hastily flit- 
ting across the far off estuary. A few steps, 
more and we are completely in the Vale of the 
Tavy. 

Enchanting Vale of Tavy ! sweet it is to linger 
amid thy leafy haunts ! — whether the bright beam 
of morning glitters on the bosom of thy mur- 
muring river, or evening sheds her rich radiance 
over thy fine trees and fresh green sward : — 
whether spring awakes in the groves his most 
exquisite poetry, or autumn scatters around his 
thousand hues of glorious decay ! Loved Tavy ! 
— by turns thou possessest all the wildness of a 
mountain stream and the quiet gentleness of a 
placid flood. Now thou brawlest over a rocky 
channel with true moorland majesty— anon thy 
harsher notes subside into a tone " most musical, 
most melancholy," scarce loud enough to drown 
the songs of the feathered choristers that flutter 
on thy banks. The landscape through which 
thou meanderest is associated with the memory 
of the days that are gone, for though now thou 
bearest on thy waters scarce any sound but the 
rustling of the wind through the forest foliage, 
or the hum of the bee among the wild flowers, 



VALE OF THE TAVY. 165 

time was when the hymn of the monk of Buck- 
land Abbey thrilled adown the valley, filling the 
soul of the listener with calm and religious de- 
light. Whoever lingered on thy banks without 
thinking of the interesting pictures of sylvan life. 
embodied in some of the old English ballads — 
without involuntarily recurring in imagination to 
the archer men of yore who had 

None other house but leves andboughes, 

whose " goode vitayle" was procured by '• shefe 
of peacock's arrowes, brighte and keene," and 
whose drink was 4 * water clere of the ryvere ?" 
Who ever wandered in these green retreats with- 
out, in imagination, beholding a * ; stag of ten" 
bursting forth from his lair in the tangled thicket 
followed by a cavalcade of gallant hunters intent 
upon laying ;i the dappled burgher" stark and 
cold on the turf of his native valley. 

The Vale of the Tavy differs materially in cha- 
racter from that of Bickleigh, which naturally 
provokes a comparison. The principal features 
of the latter are decidedly moorland, softened 
down by luxuriances of wood, which do not, how- 
ever, always hide the real cragginess of the scene. 
The views on the Tavy are generally distin- 
guished by a richness of cultivation, a deeper 
repose, and a greater loftiness of banks, which are 



J66 VALE OF THE TAVY. 

also less broken and rude. We have in the Vale 
of the Tavy another advantage which we do not 
enjoy in Bickleigh Vale — that is we are now and 
then gratified by glimpses of the distant prospect 
— the river winding through level meadows, 
dotted with groups of cattle, and enlivened by 
other rural figures. In the latter valley we are 
almost constantly enveloped in solemn shade, and 
entirely shut out from a sight of the remote land- 
scape by the high screens of rock and wood 
which fold so magnificently behind each other. 

The path that leads to Buckland Abbey passes 
at intervals through fine woods, composed of 
trees of the most gigantic stature, and infinite 
variety of foliage, How lovely are those woods 
in the purple flush of evening when the mellow 
sunlight is streaming with unspeakable glory 
through the cool arcades ; — when all is hushed 
save the sounds which are Nature's own — the 
piercing cry of the grasshopper — the cooings of 
the gentle wood-pigeon — and the sighing rustle 
of the expiring breeze which departs as if it were 
the breath of the dying day. The vale is fre- 
quently formed into noble crescents, the banks 
being covered from base to brow with the thick- 
est umbrage. The stream sometimes reflects a 
red cliff, owing its origin to the crumbling away 



VALE OF THE TAVY. 167 

of the earth on the side of the slope, and display- 
ing a pleasing contrast to the neighbouring green- 
ness. Here and there an ancient oak, gnarled 
with extreme age and loaded with ivy, has so re- 
laxed its hold in the soil that it droops over the 
waters and allows its lower branches to be washed 
by the passing current. If we descend to the 
minutice of the scene we shall find ample gratifi 
cation. Here in the jocund spring-time, we may 
behold the meek pale virgin lily, shrinking into 
her narrow world of emerald leaves — the wild 
rose with her delicate leafits, destroyed by a 
breath — the azure perriwinkle, running riot in 
untamed beauty — the daisy and golden-cup, loved 
in the days of our childhood ; and on the extreme 
margin of the stream the sky-tinged blue-bell 
droops, like the young Narcissus, over its own 
sweet image in the liquid mirror. 

Swelling in noble cadences through the wind- 
ings of the Vale comes the roar which the Tavy 
sends forth in leaping over the Weir. — How re- 
freshing that sound to the ear, and how identified 
with the romantic scenes of Devon! Though 
the wild hills and dark valleys of this picturesque 
county are in themselves powerfully attractive, yet 
what could atone for the absence of the fresh tor- 
rent, frothing over rocks and pebbles adown 



168 BUCKLAND ABBEY. 

tho narrow glen till it throws itself into 
the bosom of some broader flood that journeys 
more deeply — more placidly on towards the 
mighty sea ? Who in gazing over an expanse of 
Devon's garden fields would not regret an absent 
charm if his eye did not catch the sunny glancing 
of a bright stream, winding in silvery folds amid 
the distant underwood, blessing with luxuriance 
" every green thing " that grows upon its margin ? 
Not far from the Weir, and at some distance 
from the river is Buckland Abbey. Let not the 
lover of grey antiquity indulge in the idea of be- 
holding a crumbling ruin, vast, desolate, and de- 
serted, such as his imagination, in its wayward 
moments, has been apt to shadow forth ! He 
must not expect to find the tottering pomp of 
gothic arches, light airy pillars entwisted by the 
wanton woodbine and hallowed by the wild rose 
blossoms — long silent aisles, full of the beauty of 
the graceful ash — ivy bound walls, spotted with 
the lichen of desolation— portals low browed, and 
rich in the sculpture of the days that are gone — 
choirs visited only by the psalmists of trees and 
bush ;— -he who anticipates this will be cruelly 
deceived, for Buckland Abbey has been sadly 
modernised, and is still inhabited. Nothing in- 
deed remains to awaken recollections of the 



BUCKLAND MONACHORUM. 169 

original building except that in the court yard 

One lonely turret, shattered and outworn, 
Stands \eneiably proud— too proud to mourn 
Its long lost giaudeur ; 

and even this solitary relic of monastic architec- 
ture (tell it not in Gath) has been roofed and 
converted into a pigeon house. 

Buckland Abbey was founded by Amicia, the 
wife of Baldwin de Rivers, Earl of Devon, and in 
1278 it was inhabited by a fraternity of Cistercian 
monks brought over from the Isle of Wight. It 
was purchased in the reign of Elizabeth by the 
celebrated Sir Francis Drake, to whose descend- 
ants it still belongs. Several remembrances of 
that great commander are preserved here, among 
which are his sword, drum, black letter bible, &c, 
which accompanied him in his voyage round the 
world. 

About a mile north-east of the Abbey is Buck- 
land Monachorum — or of the monks, " which ad- 
junct" says Risdon " it hath for that Amicia wife 
of Baldwin de Rivers Earl of Devon, daughter ot 
Gilbert de Clare, gave this manor with other lands 
advowsons to the foundation of the neighbouring 
monastery." The church is a fine building bat- 
tlemented and ornamented with pinnacles, and it 
has a remarkably handsome tower. The interior 
contains several monuments of the Heathfield fa- 



170 BUCKLAND MONACHORUM. 

mily, particularly an elaborately finished tomb by 
Bacon, erected in memory of George Augustus 
Eliot Baron Heathfield, the heroic defender of 
Gibraltar. On the south side of the church is a 
grove of majestic elms which completely overtop 
the tower. At the entrance of the church-yard 
is a gate house, and on the opposite side of the 
road is a circular flight of shattered granite steps 
•which, most probably, once formed the basement 
of a cross, though no vestige of a shaft exists to 
warrant this supposition. Close to these ruined 
steps, and placed in the wall of a blacksmith's 
shop is an upright stone, about seven feet high, 
inscribed with some unknown characters in a 
good state of preservation. This antiquarian cu- 
riosity is mentioned in Polwhele's History of De - 
von, and in Lysons " Magna Britannia," but the 
meaning of the inscription is not explained in 
either of these works, 



171 



EXCURSION FR.03X SHAUGH BRIDGE 

TO SHBSPSTOa. 

The Moor resigns 
Not suddenly its sternness; not at once 
The soft- the beautiful ot Nature meets 
The rapturM eye ; but here is union sweet 
Of tree and torrent, verdure, waterfall, 
And leaf-hung streamlet ihat may well detain 
Awhile the wanderer. 

DARTMOOR. 

Whoever has been accustomed to wander 
among the lonely hills and torrent- haunted glens 
of Dartmoor, must have "been forcibly struck with 
the strange peculiarity of scenery which charac- 
terizes many parts of the borders of that wild 
waste. The Moor, where it sweeps down to unite 
with the cultivated landscape, is often broken 
into deep and shadowy ravines, apparently owing 
their origin to some violent convulsion of nature, 
the mountainous elevations rushing up with sin- 
gular grandeur and frowning over the tumultuous 
waters at their feet, which — all wildness and 
power — hasten on to mingle with the distant 
ocean. The struggle between barrenness and 
fertility in these scenes forms a very interesting 
study for the lover of the picturesque. The heath 



17*2 EXCURSION FROM 

flower is blended with the honey-suckle — the fern 
with the fox-glove — and the hardy boughs and 
stunted foliage of the dwarf oak droop over the 
purple violet or the meek blossoms of the wild 
strawberry. The trees are disposed in the most 
fantastic and irregular groupings, as if when yel- 
low Autumn was flinging his treasures of ripened 
seeds on the air, Nature, with her frolic breath, 
had delighted to blow them into the mo>t difficult 
and inaccessible situations. The billowness of 
the ground causes the existence of delicious vari- 
eties of light and shade. A sun-beam breaking 
athwart the slope of one of these valleys will, 
perhaps, on the summit illumine the face of a 
lichened rock — half way down form a pathway 
of light across a dark sea of leafage, and at the 
bottom glance full and sparklingly into the bosom 
of a brawling torrent. In short there is an inex- 
pressible charm of freshness and untamed beauty 
connected with this species of landscape which it 
would be in vain to seek among the gentler 
haunts of cultivation. 

Let us now trace the course of the Plym from 
Shaugh Bridge to Sheepstor — an excursion which 
cannot fail to leave lasting images of pleasure on 
the mind. Perhaps the author in his observations 
has attended rather too much to detail, but, if he 



SHAUGH BRIDGE TO SHEEPSTOR. 1J3 

have done so, it must be attributed to an anxiety 
to do justice to his subject. They, however, who 
confine themselves to the mere outline of a land- 
scape, without remarking the minutely exquisite 
touches with which Nature finishes her boldest 
conceptions, deprive themselves of an inex- 
haustible source of gratification* 

Having lingered awhile on Shaugh Bridge to 
watch the long blue columns of smoke curling 
slowly up from the cottages which nestle at the 
foot of the moutain heights, and to listen to the 
loud voice of the Cad and Plym, flowing in a 
newly united stream towards the vale of Bick- 
leigh, we proceed in our ramble by the rude path 
which runs for a short distance along the left 
bank of the river. The attention is soon struck 
by the ruin of an ancient mill, situated near the 
margin of the stream. This fabric is worth in- 
spection on account of its peculiar construction. 
Time has clad the desolate walls with glossy ivy. 
and dashed them with his favorite hue of lichened 
grey, but the most striking proof of the antiquity 
of the building, is a spreading oak, which has 
sprung up to maturity within the area of the 
mouldering masonry. 

We pass a peasant's cottage, and then find our- 
selves in the midst of as wild a combination of 
Q 2 



174 EXCURSION FROM 

natural objects as was ever pictured by the most 
romantic imagination. The surrounding hills are 
of a great height, and withal so irregular in their 
formation that they almost resemble the billows 
of the ocean suddenly paralysed in one of their 
most stormy swellings. The right bank, however, 
is the most grand and impressive. Jts slope is 
one continued scene of cliff and hanging woods. 
Huge crumbling rocks are piled on each other in 
fearful array, and some seem half suspended in 
air. At short intervals tower several craggy 
knolls, composed of disjointed masses of granite 
hurled together in magnificent confusion, as if the 
Genius of earthquake had strode in wrath along 
the hills and these were the traces of his mighty 
footsteps. The crags are, however, every where 
rendered beautiful by the magic hand of Nature, 
which has variegated them with lichens of a 
thousand hues, and hung their shivered scalps 
with wreaths of the flaunting woodbine. Here 
and there the vagrant fancy may picture ruined 
donjon keeps whose only banner is now the pur- 
ple heath-bell or the gorgeous fox-glove— watch- 
towers whose only warder is the summer bee 
revelling in the cup of a drooping wild flower — 
and cathedral choirs whose only anthem is the 
chaunt of a hermit bird. 



SHAUGH BRIDGE TO SHEEFSTOR. 1/5 

Every object in this scene is imbued with a 
feeling of freshness and untamed power. The 
trees which grow among the rifted rocks soften 
down the more savage features, and, by the beauty 
of their foliage contribute much to heighten the 
general effect. A volume might be filled with 
portraits of the insulated attractions which are 
unsparingly lavished on the eye. In one spot, 
perhaps, a rock which has borne the brunt of a 
thousand tempests, and still remains proudly un- 
moved, uplifts its huge front ; while, in another 
situation, a graceful mountain ash, apparently 
arrogant of its own sweet weight of clustering 
corai berries, springs lightly up on the very edge 
of a bushy precipice. The author was forcibly 
struck on his first visit to this romantic vale by 
the aspect of an old oak which grows, or rather 
decays, on the west bank of the river in the midst 
of a wood of flourishing young trees. It rises, 
scathed and verdureless, above its more youthful 
brethren of the forest, having been shorn by axe 
or tempest of all its honors of branch and bough. 
This aged tree, standing in the midst of so much 
green beauty, forcibly conveys the idea of a being 
who has outlived the allotted time of man's pil- 
grimage on earth, and has grown old amid a 
generation with which he has no connecting link 
of kindred or friendship. 



176 EXCURSION FROM 

Nothing can be more delightful than to wander 
among the grey rocks and lush woods of this 
romantic glen. The observing mind needs no 
better haunt in which to watch over "Nature's 
gentle doings." Sometimes the traveller, in 
making his way between the trees, will suddenly 
burst into a solitary bird's little world of green 
leaf and pleasant shade ; and then it is amusing 
to watch the motions of the fearful warbler at 
being thus disturbed — first inclining his head to 
the right and then to the left to catch the sounds 
of danger, and then, after having for a moment 
eyed the intruder with piercing attention, hop- 
ping away from twig to twig till his tiny form is 
lost amid the thick leafage ; while anon the ear 
is saluted by the full-hearted gush of melody 
which he pours forth when he has reached a more 
secure retreat. Frequently is caught the glis- 
tening of the timid hare's eyes as she lies watch- 
fully couching on her ferny form— the bee is seen 
struggling up the stem of a bending wild flower : 
often too a superb dragon fly sweeps along the 
cool margin of the stream — a living emerald — a 
winged star — shooting onwards till he buries 
himself deep in the rich herbage. These, with a 
thousand other sights and sounds, are reserved 
for him who delights to wander " with freedom 
at his side " among the eloquent solitudes of na- 



SHAUGH BRIDGE TO SHEEPSTOR. 177 

ture ; and such a being can never want true 
gratification, for every tree — every hoary rock — 
every blue stream— and every delicate blossom of 
the wilderness furnishes his mind with images to 
be recurred to with fondness when the anxieties 
of a turbulent world cast their deep shadows over 
his wearied spirit. 

Our further wayfaring through the vale is still 
guided by the course of the Plym, and we are 
presented at almost every step with some new 
combination of scenery. The stream roars over 
a channel strewed with shivered blocks of granite, 
but these are neither so large nor disposed in 
groupings so irregular as those in the valley of 
the Cad. Young hazels clad in very wantonness 
of leaf are seen bending over the " ever flashing " 
waters, as if anxious to bathe themselves in the 
refreshing spray ; and the eye is never tired of 
gazing on the glossy weeds which wave to and 
fro in the restless current. We soon emerge into 
some open fields through which the stream flows 
with sweet placidity. It is pleasing to look back 
on the scene we have just quitted, especially if it 
be near the sunset hour, for then the shadow of a 
bold knoll, which rises directly in front of us, 
falls with fine effect on the opposite slope, filling 
the glen beneath with the mystery of twilight. 



178 HOO HEAVY. 

Passing along the skirts of Roborough Down, 
we quickly attain Hoo Meavy Bridge. The Plym 
here issues from a vista of thickly woven boughs 
and presents a smooth surface, disturbed only by 
the dip of a fly or the plunge of a sportive trout. 
Hoo Meavy House, stands on a gentle slope just 
above the bridge, "and, though modernized, re- 
tains sometraces of its ancient aspect in its gothic 
door ways and stone window frames. The estate 
possesses the peculiar privilege of keeping a brace 
of greyhounds with unbailed feet, in the forest of 
Dartmoor, notwithstanding the directions of the 
general forest laws that the feet of the dogs 
should be balled to prevent their hunting." We 
shall find nothing further to detain our attention 
till we arrive at the secluded hamlet of Meavy, 
situated in a broad valley on the very edge of the 
great Devonshire moor. It consists of a few neat 
cottages and an antique church, surrounded by 
the last home of many a moorland peasant.* Im- 
mediately in front of the church-yard wall is the 
gigantic Meavy Oak. This venerable tree, 
though it has suffered from the touch of " decay's 

* Near (he church are two layers of wrought granite blocks, ar 
ranged horizontally one on the other, the omer edge of the upper 
layer being about a foot whhin that of the lower. These stones are 
doubtless fragments of an ancient eros?, as similar remains are not 
uncommon in the neighbourhood. The largest and most perfect is at 
Bi.ckland Mouachorum. 



THE HEAVY OAK. 179 

effacing fingers," still continues proudly magni- 
ficent. It is of an extraordinary circumference, 
and is completely hollowed out by the slow but 
never-failng operations of time. The cavity, as 
is affirmed by mine hostess of the " Royal Oak," 
a little inn standing hard by, once accommodated 
nine persons at a dinner party : it is now used as 
a turf house. The lower branches still obey the 
voice of spring and spread their living canopy 
over a large area of ground. The topmost boughs, 
however, are bare, having long ceased to be hung 
with the massive foliage which they bore in the 
days of their young lustihood. Over them the 
all-conquering hand of time has indeed achieved 
a perfect victory. They impress their rifted out- 
line black and cheerlessly against the deep blue 
of the heavens, and in some places, where the 
bark has dropped away r the core of the wood dis- 
plays itself in ghastly whiteness. When the 
withered top is beheld against the bright back 
ground of a serene evening sky, it wears an 
unusually melancholy aspect, which is ren- 
dered the more striking from being contrasted 
with the vegetation yet lingering on the lower 
branches. 

The only * ; hostel" in the village is " The Royal 
Oak," which, though of humble exterior, affords 



180 



INN AT MEAVY. 



comfortable accommodation to the way-worn tra- 
veller. In summer this is a sort of " trysting place" 
for fishermen who stroll from the neighbour- 
ing towns to try their piscatorial skill in the 
waters of the Plym. He who is fond of studying 
character in the kitchen of a country inn cannot 
do better than spend a winter's evening by the 
blazing peat fire of " The Royal Oak," for it will 
afford him a fine opportunity of remarking the 
peculiarities of the untutored children of the 
moor ; and perchance he may be treated with a 
tale of the pixies* which are said to haunt the 
rugged brow of Sheepstor. 

Having cast a farewell look at the old oak 
and antique church, we pursue our journey, and 
soon arrive at the bridge above Meavy which we 
cross. About a gunshot south of the stream, and 
close to a farm house, is an aged granite crossf — 

* The pixy is the Devonshire fairy, and in the more secluded parts 
of the county these fabulous little beings are still strongly believe i in, 
and many storhs are related of their mischievous exploits They are 
said to lead people astray in the dark, particularly persons who a ,r e re- 
turning from wakes and fairs. Under such circumstances as these, 
however, ihe casual strayings of a benighted rustic may be satis- 
factorily attributed to a very simple cause, for who can answer for the 
topogiaphical correctness of the swain when under the influence of 
Sir John Barleycorn? Tt is imagined by the country people that 
Sheepstor is a favotiie haunt of pixies. The poet Coleridge has men- 
tioned them in some very interesting verses 

-r These crosses are very numerous in Devon and Cornwall. They 
are generally found at the junction of roads, and they were no doubt 
intended as'visible symbols of the Catholic faith, for the accommoda- 



SHAUGH BRIDGE TO SHEEPSTOR. 181 

a remnant of the days " while yet the church 
was Rome's." This interesting relic is quite per- 
fect, and will bear the bufFettings of many suc- 
ceeding winters if it should escape the hand of 
wanton destruction. We now trace the mean 
derings of the Plym through a range of meadows 
and orchards, catching occasional glimpses of the 
wild tors of the moor, till our notice is attracted 
by a picturseque farm house, bearing on its portal 
the date 1610 rudely sculptured in granite, and 
wearing altogether a quaint and interesting ap- 
pearance. A fine pear tree spreads itself over 
the front of this sequestered dwelling, and the 
stone-shafted latticed windows look well in sum- 
mer, when partially concealed by blossoms and 
fresh young leaves. Having left this quiet little 
retreat, we pass up a bough-shaded lane till we 
perceive a gate on the left hand from which a 
path turns off across a field, under a row of wild 
cherry tress, leading at last into a thick copse. 
By following this track we speedily arrive at the 
brow of a hill from which we command a charm- 
ing view of Meavy, and the wood-chequered fields 
through which winds the Plym. We continue 
our walk eastward, between a few scattered trees, 

tion of errant devotees. They are very frequent on the skirls of the 
moor. The cross mentioned above is a remarkably fine and perfect 
specimen of the kind. 



182 EXCURSION, &c. 

till we arrive at the brink of a deep wooded dell, 
from which proceeds the roar of waters, arising 
from the cascade of a fresh moorland brook that 
has plunged into the craggy glen in its way to 
join the Plym. We should now make our 
way through the tangled underwood till we at- 
tain the bottom of the slope, when we behold the 
stream tumbling from rock to rock down an in- 
clined steep for full two hundred feet, wearying 
the surrounding echoes with hollow dashings. 
The leafage is here so remarkably luxuriant that 
the waters are sometimes entirely hidden from 
the view, but they repeatedly burst forth into the 
light, rendered more interesting from their tem- 
porary concealment. When the stream reaches 
the foot of the declivity it steals away to join the 
Plym, and becomes invisible, save that it now and 
then betrays itself in white mantlings through 
the dark copse- wood. The grouping of the trees 
in this spot is very fine. Here a light ash springs 
up with its slender stem and bunches of delicate 
leaves, while there a leafless and almost branchless 
oak displays its huge bole and naked roots, still 
clinging fondly to the spot of earth which gave it 
being, and where it has continued for ages, in 
proud security, while so many of the more fragile 
tenants of the wood have sprung into maturity 



SHEEPSTOR CHURCH. 183 

and withered away. In some spots a shady syca- 
more droops over the cascade, the tips of the 
lower branches touching the frothing waters and 
dancing to and fro with a tremulous motion ; and 
in those situations not occupied by the larger de- 
scription of trees are beheld numerous tufts of 
light green hazels. 

The scenery higher up the Plym is very wild. 
One bank presents fine combinations of woods, 
and rocks, " bald with dry antiquity," while the 
other is bare of foliage and strewed with confused 
fragments of granite. One huge shattered group 
which is seen half way up the latter slope is 
worthy of particular attention. It rises rifted 
and desolate " the joy of the wild hawk" which 
here builds its nest, secure from intrusion. 
Sheepstor Bridge, seated deep amid the shade of 
venerable trees, is soon attained ; and by follow- 
ing the road eastward the traveller soon arrives 
at the little moorland hamlet from which it takes 
its name. Sheepstor church is one of those quaint 
specimens of ancient ecclesiastical architecture 
which are sometimes met with in secluded situa- 
tions, unmarred by the hand of modern improve- 
ment. It is of very remote date and stands near 
the foot of the wild tor* which bears the same 

* For a description of this tor see the article entitled "A Rough 
Sketch of Dartmoor," 



184 SHEEPSTOR CHURCH. 

name as the village. Its pinnacled tower tacitly 
tells the tale of many a moorland tempest, and 
the other parts of the building bear the marks of 
the gradual inroads of time. The walls are 
encrusted with grey and yellow lichens, and 
young ivies insinuate their tough tendrils into 
the mouldering cavities. He who is fond of 
wandering in the cemetries of country churches 
will find a rich source of pleasure by lingering in 
this lonely burial-place, when the setting sun of 
a calm autumnal evening is touching the massy 
buttresses and crumbling carved work with mel- 
low light. A feeling of religious placidity then 
pervades every thing round the old building ; — 

" It stands so quietly within the bound 
Of its low wall of grey and mossy stone, 
And, like a shepherd's ptaceful flock around 
lis guardian gathered,— graves or tomb stones strown 
Make their last narrow resting places knovtn 
Who living loved it as a holy spot 
And dying made their deep attachment shown. 
By wishing here to sleep when life was not, 
That so their Uirf or stone might keep them un forgot." 



When the sun is about to quit the landscape, 
the antique granite tomb-stones chequer the 
greenly-swelling graves with long dark shadows, 
pleasingly contrasted by the brighter parts of the 
sward, and the spot is imbued with such a charm 
that the stranger, while listening to the sobbing 



SHEEPSTOR CHURCH. 



185 



of the breeze among the ivy, and gazing on the 
peaceful solitudes around, almost feels a wish 
that at the end of life's weary pilgrimage he 
might " sleep the sleep of death" in this last 
resting place of the moorland peasant. 



ft 2 



186 



WXXXTSAND BAT. 



There is a rapture on the lonely shore, 
There is society were none intrudes, 
By the deep sea and music in its roar. 



Those who are fond of gazing on the magnifi- 
cence of ocean scenery cannot do better than 
spend an afternoon in a visit to Sharrow Grot. 
which is situated in one of the most interesting 
parts of Whitsand Bay. The tourist first pro- 
ceeds to Millbrook, which lies at the head of a 
winding creek by no means devoid of picturesque 
beauty at full tide. 

Millbrook was anciently a place of some im- 
portance. " It originally belonged to the Earls 
of Cornwall under whose protection it enjoyed 
many privileges. It still retains the power of 
choosing an annual port-reeve, two constables. 
a mace bearer, an ale-taster, &c, and it has a 
common seal. Richard Champernowne, Esq.. 
lord of the manor in 1319, procured for Millbrook 
the grant of a market, which was held here on 
Tuesdays, but it has been lorg discontinued. 



SHARROW GROT. 187 

After the extinction of the Champernowne fa- 
mily the town fell into decay. In the reign of 
Henry VI., it gave the title of baron to Sir John 
Cornwall, who was created Lord Millbrook. 
which title became extinct at his death in 1433." 
In Carew's time Millbrook possessed a consider- 
able fishing trade, and had nearly forty ships and 
barks. Carew also mentions that this place used 
to supply the navy with excellent seamen. 

The distance across the hills from Millbrook to 
Sharrow Grot is very short, and as the road is 
not intricate it may be easily found by strangers 
if they take the precaution of asking a few ques- 
tions concerning the route before leaving the 
above village. 

Sharrow Grot is a small cavern, hewn some 
years ago in the solid rock by a gentleman 
named Lugger, who is said to have cured himself 
of the gout by the labour of the undertaking. 
Over the entrance is a Latin quotation, not how- 
ever exactly appropriate, and the walls of the 
interior are covered with metrical inscriptions, 
none of them possessing any peculiar merit. 
From this spot the appearance of the bay is 
extremely interesting. In front is the majectic 
ocean, dotted with ships gliding to and fro ; and 
the wild gull is seen sailing on the wing, exulting 



188 WHITSAND BAY. 

in his unlimited liberty. Towards the east the 
land sweeps away like a crescent as far as the 
chapel-crowned Rame Head, which rushes into 
the waves with impressive boldness. On the 
west the view is bounded by a number of low 
headlands, retiring behind each other in dim per- 
spective, the most remote looking like a faint 
blue cloud in the horizon. At low tide beautiful 
sand-beaches, divided from each other by reefs of 
rocks, occupy the space between the foot of the 
cliff and the sea, procuring for the bay the name 
of " Whitsand." On the fine beach below Shar- 
row Grot summer parties frequently amuse them- 
selves by dancing. It is pleasing to behold a 
band of light-hearted beings sporting amid some 
of the wildest forms of nature — under the rude 
cliffs which seem piled for eternity ; and as they 
bound along the margin of the scarcely rippling 
ocean, the custom of the inhabitants of the sun- 
bright isles of the Egean sea forcibly occurs to 
the mind — that of dancing the antique dance of 
Ariadne on the yellow strand, beneath the cool 
canopy formed by the shadowy plane tree and 
the twisting branches of the luxuriant vine. The 
Turkish crescent — that harbinger of blood and 
rapine — has for a time marred that picturesque 
observance, but the day, we trust, is not far off 



WHITSAND BAY. 189 

when the sun that rises over Greece will shine on 
a free and tranquil people. 

Nothing can be more delightful in fine weather 
than to throw one's self on the patch of green 
turf above S harrow Grot and gaze on the sur- 
rounding scenery. The ocean, monotonous as it 
is generally deemed, will afford ample funds of 
amusement to the reflective mind— the uncouth 
gambols of a passing shoal of porpoises — the 
waves rolling slowly on the beach, not seeming to 
be impelled by the breeze, but by a jealousy to 
eclipse by their snowiness the whiteness of the 
sands — while the ships stealing by in the offing, 
like half formed visions, create numberless blanks 
to be filled up by idle conjecture — whence come 
they? — -whither are they bound ? and a thousand 
other questions, equally unanswerable, suggest 
themselves to the imagination. Perhaps a single 
bark may approach nigh enough to the shore to 
allow the mariner to be distinguished, leaning 
listlessly over the side of the vessel, probably 
thinking of his wife — his children — his friends, 
and the comforts of his home — if men whose 
chief sojourn is on the deep may be said to have 
any home besides " the world of waters." 

Manifold and interesting indeed are the feel- 
ings with which we gaze on the ever-tremulous 



190 WHITSAND BAY. 

ocean. We are aware that we stand in the pre- 
sence of a power that spurns all human controul. 
Man is at best but an intruder into the wilderness 
of waves, and of this he in many ways manifests 
a consciousness, for his ships are not sent forth 
on the sea as though entrusted to the bosom of a 
friend, but are equipped with contrivances the 
best calculated to baffle the endeavours of an 
implacable enemy. And after all how vain are 
man's most cunningly devised schemes of safety ; 
— let but a storm hover in the air and the sails of 
the gallant ship are rent to atoms — her cordage 
is snapped — her masts " go by the board " and 
the hapless mariners speedily lie " full fathom 
five" in the salt caves of ocean. Who would 
suppose that the beautiful waters which on a calm 
day melt in music at the spectator's feet had 
crushed whole navies in their deadly embrace, 
strewing the shores of earth with wreck and 
desolation ! 

There is a sort of fearful interest in gazing 
from Sharrow Grot on the sublimity of an Atlan- 
tic tempest. The sea howls with incredible vio- 
lence on the craggy shore, and the spray, driven 
by the fury of the wind, frequently flies over the 
summits of the highest cliffs. At such a season 
the wild gull and the bark of the undaunted 



WHITSAND BAY. 191 

Cornish fisherman hold undisputed empire over 
the frothing billows. A braver class of men 
than the Cornish mariners is not in existence. 
In the heaviest gales they traverse the face 
of the raging waters in their frail vessels with 
a degree of courage that is truly astonishing. 
And here it may be remarked that the appellation 
of " West Barbary," bestowed on this county, is, 
as far as regards the maritime part of the popu* 
lation, totally unmerited. They have been ac- 
cused of plundering the wrecks of those vessels 
which have been cast by storms on their iron- 
bound coasts, but it may be asserted, without fear 
of contradiction, that the pillagers of wrecks 
mostly consisted — for happily such circumstances 
are now seldom heard of — of half savage pea- 
sants, living at a distance from the sea. Those 
gallant fellows — the fishermen — are taught by 
perils they themselves experience, to pity, not 
plunder, a brother sailor in the hour of distress. 

On the beach below Sharrow Grot are the 
remains of Sharrow Palace (as it was called) a 
house of refuge for fishermen, which once stood 
there. One of the corners of this building may 
be still seen on a detached mass of rock, and 
around it are numerous traces of walls becoming 
gradually less distinct as they are washed by the 



192 WHITSAND BAY. 

ocean- tempests of succeeding winters In the 
perpendicular rock above these ruins is a line of 
grooves dug at regular distances, and which, 
most probably, were occupied by the ends of the 
beams that originally supported the roof of the 
building, 

The rocks and cliffs around this spot are ex- 
tremely romantic : lashed by the storms of ages 
into the most singular shapes, they can scarcely 
be contemplated without the mind feeling itself 
involuntarily raised to that Being with whom are 
all knowledge and power. And though they are 
beheld with a feeling of admiration, bordering on 
awe, the truly philosophic observer will not be 
oppressed w T ith a sense of his own insignificance 
in the scale of creation, but he will rather exult 
that when all this vast and durable grandeur shall 
have passed away, and mountains, rocks, and 
floods have crumbled into chaos, that his spirit, 
no longer fettered down to earth, shall survive in 
a glorious immortality. 

From this spot, in clear weather, the eye is 
enabled to catch an uncertain glimpse of that 
wondeful proof of human perseverance and inge- 
nuity — the Edd} r stone lighthouse. Before that 
structure was firmly seated on its rocky base, 
how often has the desponding shriek of the drown- 



WHIT SAND BAY. 193 

ing mariner pealed round that lonely reef — un- 
pitied and unheard save by the wild sea fowl 
which delighteth in the paths of the stormy 
deep!" 

One of the snug little coves to be found in cer- 
tain parts of Whitsand Bay would form a charm- 
ing retreat for him who is attached to sea scenes. 
How sweet on a summer's eve to wander on the 
strand and watch the sun going down in glory* 
touching each gently rising ripple with burnished 
gold! — to list the music of the waves dying in 
pensive cadence along the shores ! — to mark the 
shades of twilight gathering in the bosom of the 
mimic bays ; or, when the winds had lashed the 
ocean into wrath, and the base of the bold Ram- 
Head was white with feathery foam, how sweet 
to retire to a blazing hearth with a few books, or 
perhaps a friend, to enable us to smile at the 
howlings of the tempest and exult in our own 
security ; though a sigh might be breathed for 
the wearied mariner whose bark was then the 
sport of the rude Atlantic surge. 

While the tourist is in the neighbourhood of 
Sharrow Grot he may as well visit the Ram- 
Head and the village of Rame. The Ram-Head 
is a promontory of rather a singular form and 
bears on its very crest a " ruined chapel built of 



194 THE RAM-HEAD, 

the same stone which forms the cliffs. It has an 
entrance on the northern side, a large window at 
the east end, and one of smaller dimensions in its 
northern and southern fronts. The door and 
window frames are all taken away, and nothing 
remains but the walls and roof. The walls are 
about three feet thick, and the interior measures 
twenty-two feet in length and nine in breadth. 
It appears from the beam holes to have formerly 
had a gallery at the west end, with a staircase 
leading to a bell which was hung in the arched 
opening above. The ceiling is very curiously 
vaulted with moorstone, united by a strong ce- 
ment, and the outside is nearly overgrown with 
coarse grass. The purposes for which it was 
erected, or by whom it was founded, are involved 
in obscurity ; but it is not improbable that it was 
the work of some mariner who dedicated it to his 
patron saint in gratitude for his escape from the 
perils of the ocean." 

The village of Rame stands at a short distance 
from the Ram-Head. It consists of a few scat- 
tered houses. The exterior of the church is 
totally devoid of neatness, and the interior is 
small and gloomy. It contains several monu- 
ments, among which is one to the memory of 
Roger Ashton, D. D, 






195 



sxcxra.sxoH' to st. azmmikwSe 



Either shore 
Presents its combinations to the view 
Of all that interests, delights, enchants; — 
Corn-waving fields, and pastures green, and slope 
.And swell alternate, summits crown'd with leaf, 
And grove-encircled mansions, verdant capes, 
And tinkling rivulets, and waters wide. 

BANKS OF TAMAR, 



Our description of the Lynher, or St. Ger- 
man's Creek, commences at its junction with the 
Tamar below Saltash. The views on this river 
are composed of some of the most attractive fea- 
tures of English landscape. When the voyager 
is satiated with gazing on the gently sloping pro- 
montories, the winding rock- edged shores, the 
weed-strewn beaches, and the undulating surface 
of the sun-reflecting waters, he may turn to scenes 
of peaceful inland beauty — may allow his fancy 
to luxuriate over the mingled traits of chastened 
wildness and rich cultivation scattered at a dis- 
tance from the river. The fields crossed by in- 
numerable hedges, presenting with their varied 
shades of colouring a vast natural carpet ; the 
billowy hills : the dark woods that skirt the wave- 



196 ANTONY. 

worn strands ; the village paths winding through 
the fertile enclosures ; and the far off tower of 
many an antique parish church, awakening recol- 
lections of the silent dead — are all beheld with 
feelings of no common gratification. 

The Lynher, from its estuary to the Barton of 
Erth — a distance of several miles — assumes the 
appearance of a broad lake. On entering this 
sheet of water from the Tamar the attention is 
first struck by the fine woods of Antony on the 
left bank, casting their green reflections into the 
wave beneath. The aspect of these woods is 
interesting from the tasteful contrasts afforded by 
the due intermixture of trees of different shapes 
and tints of foliage ; — the taper fir — the Corin- 
thian elm — the swelling beech — and the graceful 
ash combine to form a whole of surpassing love- 
liness ; while they who sail close to those sylvan 
banks may frequently gaze into little leafy re- 
treats as quiet and as lonely as the dwelling places 
of the Hamadryades of old. 

This estate belongs to W. P. Carew, Esq. 
The mansion stands at some distance from the 
shore. It is a square massive looking edifice built 
in the year 1721. The interior is commodious 
and elegant, and contains some fine paintings, 
among which are family portraits by Sir Joshua 



VILLAGE OF ANTONY. 197 

Reynolds, Holbein, Bird, Hudson, Vandyke, Sir 
Godfrey Kneller, &c. In front of the house is a 
court yard enclosed on two sides by rows of offices 
supported by piazzas, and on the third by a brick 
wall. The grounds are exceedingly well laid out, 
commanding extensive views of the Lynher and 
surrounding country. Richard Carew, Esq., au- 
thor of the " Survey of Cornwall" was an 
ancestor of the present proprietor of this pic- 
turesque domain. 

The village of Antony is situated on a rising 
ground at some distance from Antony House, and 
in conjunction with its singularly seated church, 
forms a very interesting picture. In this district, 
as early as the year 1189, there was, according to 
Leland, a cell of black monks of Angier, which 
most probably belonged to the priory of Tyward- 
reath. The church is said to have been formerly 
appropriated to the abbot and convent of Tavi- 
stock, by whom the ecclesiastical jurisdiction of 
the district was held at the time of the Norman 
Conquest, and under which it continued until the 
dissolution of religious houses in the reign of 
Henry VIII. In 1540 the manor and church of 
Antony were granted to lord John Russell, in 
conjunction with other possessions which were 
then taken from the Abbey. This property con- 
s 2 



198 beggar's island. 

tinued in the Russell family until the year 1761, 
when it was purchased by the Carews, in whose 
possession it still remains." The church consists 
of a. nave, chancel, and two side aisles, and con- 
tains several ancient monuments. Near the altar 
is an effigy in brass of Margaret Arundell, wife 
of Sir Thomas Arundell, of Talaverne. This 
lady is said to have been the first person who was 
interred in this church. In different parts of the 
edifice there are monuments to the memory of 
individuals of the Carew family, &c. But to 
return to the Lynher: — 

Midway between the groves of Antony and the 
opposite shore is Beggar's Island, a small spot of 
land nearly covered by the tide at high water. 
Attempts have been made to plant it with wood, 
but they have all failed ,on account of its unshel- 
tered situation. From this spot — looking west 
ward — we have a sweet view of the higher parts 
of the river. Wood-fringed headlands sweep 
gently down to the water, and retire behind each 
other in pleasing perspective, while cottages, 
copses, and farm houses diversify the hills. The 
peninsula of Ince is a prominent and romantic 
object, and the expanse of water itself — exclu- 
sively considered — is by no means monotonous, 
for if the surface should not be relieved by the 



TREMATON CASTLE. 199 

red sail of a passing barge, or the dippings of a 
flock of white- winged gulls from the cliffs of 
Whitsand Bay, it is sure to be varied by the ever- 
changing lights and shadows created by the 
cloudy fitfulness — the ;4 glory and the gloom" of 
our wild western skies. 

The venerable and imposing donjon keep of 
Trematox Castle, one of the most perfect spe- 
cimens of baronial antiquity in the kingdom, 
rises proudly above the rural dwellings of Antony 
Passage. This noble relic of feudal power still 
looks down with a commanding air on the scenes 
which its former lords held in the galling chains 
of vassalage. Manifold, however, and interesting 
are the associations awakened by a sight of those 
crumbling walls. Deeds of knightly emprize and 
tales of " ladye love " — minstrels with neck- 
chains of gold, and harps of witching melody — 
warders pacing the round of the grey turrets- 
banners streaming in the wind — the hoof-clang 
of war-caparisoned steed, champing his golden 
bit — lordly banquets — armed vassals marching 
forth to battle — all occupy the imagination with 
agreeable delusion. They are, however, but the 
visions of a moment. Peaceful and solitary are 
the walls of Trematon, though the red-cross of 
England occasionally floats in the breeze that 
sweeps over its lofty battlements. 



200 TREMATON CASTLE. 

The present remains of the castle consist of the 
keep; of an embattled circular wall six feet 
thick, enclosing about an acre of ground; and 
the gateway composed of three massive arches 
supporting a square tower. Between the arches 
are grooves for port-cullises. This is by far the 
best preserved part of the building. 

The keep rises nobly on the summit of an arti- 
ficial mound. It is embrasured and rather ellip- 
tical in shape. The walls are more than ten feet 
thick, and profusely overrun with ivy. The en- 
trance is through a Ioav browed door on the west 
side. The space included within the walls 
measures twenty-four yards by seventeen, hi 
this part of the fortress there is not the least 
vestige of a window, and it is therefore supposed 
that the interior was lighted by means of an aper- 
ture at the top. On the eastern exterior of the 
keep is a rustic seat over which are incribed the 
following appropriate lines from a poet who truly 
loved nature- Cowper. 

" Caught by the varied prospects that appear 
Tiie uan;ou eye just glauces o'er the whole: 
No single beauty charms :— the fancy here 
Roves like a libertine without controul." 

The view from this commanding spot is indeed 
lovely in the extreme. Immediately beneath is 
the placid Lynher, dotted with the sails of slowly 
moving barges ; and the shores archcre and there 



TREMATON CASTLE. 201 

skirted by the picturesque greenness of massive 
woods. The eye ranges over the harbour — the 
shipping — the towns of Plymouth, Devonport, 
and Stonehouse — Mount Edgcumbe — the bluely- 
swelling hills of Dartmoor — the Sound — the 
Mewstone — the vast ocean, and a thousand other 
objects which cannot fail to enchant the gazer. 

The Gate-house contains an apartment now 
converted into a museum of natural curiosities, 
among which are some admired specimens of 
tapestry, antique weapons of warfare, a drinking 
vessel dug up at Marathon, and numerous other 
rarities. On the outside of the gateway is hung 
up the bell of the Salvador del Mundo, one of the 
ships taken in Admiral Jervis's action with the 
Spaniards, February 14th, 17&7- A Survey of 
the Duchy of Cornwall, bearing date 1337, de- 
scribes a hall, kitchen, and lodging chamber in 
Trematon Castle, stated to have been built by 
Edmund Earl of Cornwall ; and also gives an ac- 
count of an ancient chapel within the gates. In 
Carews time, however, all the inner buildings 
were sunk into decay. 

Within the area of the ruins is the modern 
built mansion of B. Tucker, Esq., to whom the 
castle and surrounding domain have belonged 
since 1807- The house stands on the site of the 



202 TREMATON CASTLE. 

ancient barracks, and contains many valuable 
pictures. In front is a bust of the Earl of St. 
Vincent, placed on a slab of marble of the same 
kind as that used in the construction of the Ply- 
mouth Breakwater. 

Different periods have been assigned as the 
probable sera of the erection of Trematon Castle, 
but all accounts agree in describing its origin to 
a very remote age. An ancient manuscript in 
the British Museum states it to have been built 
by the Romans, which assertion is corroborated 
64 by the lime cement used in the formation of 
this and other decayed Cornish castles, which 
material was first brought into use by the above 
ingenious and warlike people.* Another opinion 
exists that Trematon was built by Robert Earl of 
Morton and Cornwall, about the time of the Con- 
queror. The most ancient authentic record ex- 
tant concerning this old fabric is found in vol. I. 
p. 122, of Domesday Boke, wherein it is stated, 
that in the year 1000 Reginald de Valletort held 
Trematon of Earl Morton, and that Brismar pos- 
sessed it in the reign of Edward I. It was one 
of the seats of the ancient Earls and Dukes of 
Cornwall, and many large estates were held by 
knight's service rendered to the lords of the castle 

• Gilbert's History of Cornwall. 



TREMATON CASTLE. 203 

Its jurisdiction extends over the waters of Ha- 
moaze and the Lynher ; of Stonehouse and Sutton 
Pools ; of Catwater, Plymouth Sound, and Caw- 
sand Bay. Within these limits, according to the 
seizin, '• any one who may be lord of the castle 
hath, and always hath been accustomed to have 
all and singular the profits whatever arising out 
of the royalty, that is to say wreck of the sea, 
pleas of mariners, prisage of wine in the said pool 
(Sutton), the chattels of felons, forfeitures, and 
and all other belonging to the royalty of the said 
castle and honour." To recover some portions 
of these rights, which have been alienated at dif- 
ferent periods, proceedings at law have been 
instituted. 

The following incident connected with Tie- 
maton, told by Carew in his quaint and amusing 
style, is worth relating. " At the last Cornish 
commotion, Sir Richard Greynuile did, with his 
Ladie and followers, put themselves into this cas- 
tle, and there for awhile indured the rebels' seige, 
incamped in three places against it ; who wanting 
great ordnance, could have wrought the besieged 
small scathe, had his friends or enemies kept 
faith or promise : but some of those within, slip- 
ping by night ouer the wals, with their bodies 



204 SHILLINGHAM. 

after their hearts, and those without, mingling 
humble entreaties with rude menaces, he was 
hereby wonne to issue forth at a posterne gate 
for parley. The while, a part of these rakehels, 
not knowing what honestie, and farre less, how 
much the worde of a souldier imported, — stepped 
between him and home, laid hold of his ancient 
vnweyldie bodie, and threatened to leaue it lifeless 
if the inclosed did not leave their resistance. So 
prosecuting their firste treacherie against the 
prince, withe suetable actions towards his subjects, 
they seized on the Castle, and exercised the vtter- 
most of their barbarous cruelties, (death excepted) 
on the surprised prisoners. The silly gentle* 
women, without regard of sexe or shame, were 
stripped of their apparell, and some of their 
fingers broken, to plucke away their rings, and 
Sir Richard himself made an exchange from 
Trematon Castle, to that of Launceston, with the 
Gayle to boot." 

A little to the west of Trematon are the um- 
brageous groves of Shillingham, the seat of James 
Buller, Esq., This finely wooded and highly 
cultivated estate forms an attractive scene when 
beheld from the river. The present mansion is 
built on the site of a more ancient family resi- 



IXCE CASTLE. 205 

dence, taken down a few years since. Near it is 
a venerable old gothic chapel now in ruins and 
most profusely overrun with ivy. 

Higher up the creek is the beautiful peninsula 
of Ince. This domain was formerly held in 
moieties by John de Ince and Thomas de Stone- 
house. In the reign of Henry VIII. it was pos- 
sessed by Sir Robert de Willoughby, Lord Broke. 
It was garrisoned in 1646 in favour of Charles II. 
at which time it was summoned to surrender to 
the Parliament by the Governor of Plymouth, 
who, on being refused, placed some artillery on 
the opposite high grounds and forced the besieged 
to give up their house, their arms, and their am- 
munition. The mansion though dignified with 
the name of " castle," is not of very prepossessing 
exterior. In form it is square, with embattled 
towers at the corners, and it is built of brick. 
The view of the lower reaches of the Lynher 
from this spot is extremely interesting. The 
mansion of Antony is beheld peering above the 
ring woods, opposite to which the stern old 
keep of Trematon rises in feudal grandeur. Two 
or three of the ships in ordinary — considerably 
diminished by distance — enliven with their yel- 
low sides the entrance of the river. The horizon 
is bounded by a flowing line of the Dartmoor 

T 



206 ERTH HOUSE. — SHEVIOCK. 

hills, among which, if the atmosphere be devoid 
of mists, that singular heap of shattered rocks — 
Sheepstor, is distinctly visible. In fine summer 
weather, the wide sheet of water before the voy- 
ager's eye is an expanse of dazzling, rippling 
splendour, and the long grass of the neighbouring 
fields waves in the breeze with a silent beauty of 
motion beyond the power of language to describe. 
Above Ince the promontory of Erth rushes 
picturesquesly into the waves. Carew, who wrote 
two hundred years ago, describes Erth House as 
" a very anciente building." The chapel con- 
nected with the dwelling is still in a good state 
of preservation. Not far from Erth is the mouth 
of the narrow creek which winds nearly up to 
the hamlet of Sheviock. If the voyager be able 
to spare time he cannot do better than land at 
one of the paths leading to this village, for the 
purpose of inspecting its antique church — one of 
the most venerable ecclesiastical edifices in the 
county. It is of simple exterior, almost embo- 
somed in trees, and, in conjunction with the rural 
repose of the surrounding objects, breathes an air 
of seclusion and piety. It was erected by the 
Dawnay family in the fourteenth century. Con- 
cerning this event Carew relates the following 
tradition. " There runneth also a tale among 



SHEVIOCK CHURCH. 207 

the parishioners how one of the Daw nay family's 
ancestors undertook to build the churche, and his 
wife the barne adjoining ; and that casting up 
their accountes upon the finishing of their workes 
the barne was found to cost three halfpence more 
than the churche ; and so it might well fall out, 
for it is a great barne and a very little churche." 
Part of the barn above alluded to is still standing. 
One of the aisles of Sheviock Church is supposed 
to have been formerly the private chapel of the 
Dawnay's ; it is called the Dawnay aisle. It con- 
tains a very ancient monument, on which, beneath 
a carved canopy, are two recumbent figures, re- 
presenting Sir Edward Courtenay and Emmeline 
Dawnay his lady. This tomb is elaborately or- 
namented with coats of arms, and is altogether a 
very interesting relic of distant days. There are 
several other monuments in the church, and 
among them is the full length effigy of a knight, 
in armour, whom Carew imagines to be a brother 
of Lady Emmeline Dawnay, " slayne in our 
warres with France." A beautiful solemnity 
pervades the interior of this little house of prayer, 
and not undelightful is it, in the quiet stillness of 
a summer afternoon, to pace the echoing aisles 
when the rich sunlight is streaming through the 
traceried lattices, gilding the projections of the 



208 ST. GERMANS. 

crumbling carved work and illuming the sculp- 
tured semblances of the knight and his lady lying 
mutely on their dusty tomb. While the spectator 
is contemplating the surrounding objects a pen- 
sive awe steals into his being, and his thoughts 
insensibly sink into a calm contemplation of 
human mortality. 

Close to the promontory of Erth is the mouth 
of the Creek which conveys the fresh waters of 
the Lynher into the main inlet leading to St. Ger- 
man's. At high water boats may proceed up 
this creek as far as Notter Bridge which, in com- 
bination with the surrounding hills, woods, and 
crags, presents a romantic scene. We now soon 
arrive at St. Germans. The town is situated 
about a quarter of a mile from the landing place, 
and the walk to it is through a lane overshadowed 
with noble trees. St. Germans is a borough, 
and sent two members to parliament, but was 
disfranchised by the Reform Act. It was 
formerly the diocese of Cornwall. It derives its 
name from its patron, St. Germaine, bishop of 
Auxerre in France, who came into Britain with 
Lupus, bishop of Troy about the year 426. The 
town contains about sixty houses scattered in a 
pleasant dell interspersed with groves of fine 
trees. The greatest attraction of this place is its 



ST, GERMANS CHURCH, 209 

venerable church, once the cathedral of the Cor- 
nish diocese. It is said to have been built by the 
Saxon King Athelstane, by whom it was dedi- 
cated to St. Germaine. The most interesting 
part of the building is the exterior of the west 
end, where there are two towers, one square and 
the other octagonal.* A portion of these antique 
walls is profusely overrun with ivy, and in the 
crevices of the crumbling stones are ferns, mosses, 
and other plants which love to fix themselves on 
aged fabrics. The entrance is described as fol- 
lows by Messrs. Britton and Bray ley, " Between 
the towers is the ancient entrance doorway, a 
very fine circular receding arch, the whole width 
of which is twenty feet. Of this space six feet 
are allotted to the door, and the remainder to the 
pillars and sides of the arch. The pillars are four 
on each side, having plain square bases and capi- 
tals, contained in semicircular niches. The arch 
contains seven mouldings ; the two innermost are 
plain and. round, the third and fourth have a 
zig-zag ornament, the next is round, and the 
sixth and seventh are zig-zag : a sculptured orna- 
ment of leafage surrounds the whole, and is ter- 
minated at each end with some rude ornament, 
resting on the capital of the outer pillars. Be- 

* Both were originally octagonal, 
T 2 



210 ST. GERMANS CHURCH. 

tween the pillars is a zig-zag ornament in alternate 
succession. The height of the pillars is seven feet 
six inches : that of the door ten feet : the whole 
height of the arch is about sixteen feet. Over 
the arch is a pediment with a cress at top re- 
sembling an heraldic cross, pattee, within a circle. 
On each side is a small pointed light, and above 
these are three small narrow round headed win- 
dows." The north side of the church wears a 
picturesque appearance from the roses, jessamines, 
and other flowering plants which have been 
trained up the wall. The interior has been so 
much altered to suit ideas of modern comfort, 
that very little remains to claim the attention of 
the antiquary. It contains however some objects 
worthy of notice. In the walls are several orna- 
mented recesses — one of them denominated the 
bishop's throne. On the front of the gallery are 
inscribed the names of the holy fathers who suc- 
ceeded each other as bishops of St. Germans, till 
the see was removed to Exeter, thirty years after 
the time of the Conqueror. These names stand in 
the following order : — St. Patrick— -Burwoldus — 
Athelstan — Athelstan — Coranus — Wolfi — Rui- 
docus — Woronus — Udridus — Wolocus — Bretivi- 
nus — Stidio — Aldredus. 

InLeland's description of this church occurs the 



PORT ELIOT HOUSE. 21 I 

following passage : — " Beside the hie altar on the 
^ right hand ys a tumbe yn the the walle, with the 
image of a bishop, and over the tumbe are XI 
bishops painted, with their names and verses as 
token of so many bishops buried ther ; or that 
ther had been so many bishops of Cornwall that 
had taken theyr seete ther." Not the least ves- 
tige of these paintings, &c. remains at present. 
There are several handsome monuments in the 
church, particularly that to the memory of Ed- 
ward Eliot, Esq., who died in 1722. The arches 
which support the church roof are stately. They 
rest on low columns with square capitals, orna- 
mented after the manner of the Saxons. 

On the north side of the church is Port Eliot 
House, the seat of the Rt. Hon. the Earl of St. 
Germans, formerly a priory. Its present appear- 
ance is far from antique. It is a very commo- 
dious mansion and contains some good portraits. 
The dining room was the monks' refectory. The 
burial ground which used to be in front of the 
house, was in 1785 levelled and converted into a 
lawn, by the authority of a patent obtained from 
the bishop of the diocese, and a new cemetry was 
formed at a little distance to the south-west of 
the church. The revenue of the St. Germans 
priory at the dissolution of monasteries was valued 



212 PORT ELIOT. 

at £243. 8s. The last prior was Robert Seymour, 
who surrendered his trust in 1583. The manor 
then fell into the hands of the Champernowne\ 
The means by which this family became posse?- 
sed of it is thus related by Carew. " John Cham- 
pernowne, sonne and heir apparent to Sir Phillip 
of Devon, in Henry the Eighth's time, followed 
the court, and through his pleasant conceits, of 
which muche mighte be spoken, won some good 
grace with the king. Now when the golden 
shoure of the dissolved Abbey lands rained wel 
neare into every gaper's mouth, some two or 
three gentlemen, the king's servants and Master 
Champernowne's acquaintance, waited at a doore 
where the King was to pass forth with purpose 
to beg such a matter at his hands : our gentleman 
became inquisitive to know their suit : they made 
strange to impart it. This while out comes the 
king : they kneel down, so doth Master Champer- 
nowne ; they prefer their petition ; the king 
grants it : they render humble thanks, so doth 
Master Champernowne. After he requireth his 
share ; they deny it ; he appeals to the king : the 
king avoweth his equal meaning in the largesse ; 
whereon the overtaken companions were fain to 
allot him this priory for his partag'e." The 
Champernowne family retained the priory estate 



PORT ELIOT. 213 

until the year 1565, when they conveyed it to 
Richard Eliot, Esq., (ancestor of the present Earl 
of St. Germans) in exchange for Coteland in 
Devonshire. The grounds of Port Eliot are well 
laid out, and afford some sweetly secluded 
retreats for him who loves to seek out the more 
retired features of nature. Trees of the most 
majestic growth shadow with their twisting 
branches and impervious foliage the gently undu- 
lating lawns ; and in the woods the fearful deer 
may be seen grazing amid the twilight gloom 
thrown on the sward by the canopy of leafy 
boughs. From some parts of the park the spec- 
tator catches an interesting glimpse of the old 
cathedral church with its towers rising above the 
surrounding trees in all the hallowed grayness of 
remote antiquity, and associating the mind with 
the days of the Saxon Athelstan. 

On the summit of a hill near the town is Cud- 
denbeke House once the episcopal palace of St. 
Germans. It is now converted into a farm house. 
The view from the spot is very extensive and 
highly attractive. The spectator takes in at a 
glance the windings of the Lynher — a wide ex- 
panse of fields glowing with all the hue of luxu- 
riant cultivation — waving woods embossing the 
numerous slopes — the populous neighbourhood of 



214 ST. GERMANS. 

Plymouth and Devonport — the blue ocean — the 
pine-crested peninsula of Mount Edgcumbe and 
the swelling ridges of Dartmoor. Immediately 
beneath the gaze is the sweet valley of St. Ger- 
mans with its scattered clumps of trees and placid 
river ; and indeed the whole scene is of so im- 
pressive a character that it is with regret the 
stranger leaves it for the purpose of seeking his 
homeward bound bark. 



215 



X.YDFORD CASCADE AND BRENT-TOR, 



Oft the traveller lists 
The roar of that wild torrent, headlong dash 'd 
O'er the rude precipice ; * * 

» * # * * 

The bright and broken flood 
Impetuous descends in graceful curves 
To mingle with the foaming world below : — 
While, sparkling in the mid-day beam, a show'r 
Of spray, for ever hovering, bathes the plants 
Thar love the mountain ami the stream. 

DARTMOOR. 



Lydford Waterfall and the romantic dell in 
which it is situated, to be seen to advantage, 
should be visited in the spring-time of the year — 
in Nature's hour of bud and blossoming; — when 
the ivies that curtain the perpendicular rocks 
wear a flush of brighter green, and the freshness 
of the leafage has not verged into the sober lusty 
hood of summer; when the mosses and lichens 
have put on their most varied tints ; — when the 
streams are rejoicing in the strength left them by 
the lately departed winter ; —when " the voice of 
the turtle is heard in the land" — and the cuckoo 
repeats his uniform note through the live- long 
day. Who in wandering through that romantic 



216 TAVISTOCK. 

glen would not regret the absence of the pearly- 
rooted blue-bell and the violet that bows its head 
in silent loveliness ? — who would not wish to be- 
hold the primrose's gentle form in the clustering 
grass, and the thorn with its white showers of 
delicate "May," — giving to every breeze that 
wanders by a portion of its soul of fragrance ? 
How could we dispense with the presence of the 
wild strawberry blossoms, peeping out between 
wreaths of dark leaves — or the young butterfly, 
just awakened to a world of beauty — or the wall 
flowers which hang in golden knots from the 
crevices of the shattered cliffs ? 

In our way to Lydford from Plymouth or De- 
vonport we pass through Tavistock. This is a 
very ancient borough, and sent members to par- 
liament as early as the twenty- third of Edward III. 
It is pleasantly situated in a valley on the banks 
of the moorland river Tavy, over which there are 
two bridges. It contains about five hundred 
houses and nearly five thousand inhabitants. It 
is one of the stannary towns. In the church, 
which is handsome and dedicated to St. Eustatius, 
are several elaborate monuments ; among them is 
one to judge Glanville, who was a native of the 
place. Tavistock, before the year 961. was the 
residence of Orgar, Duke of Devonshire, whose 



TAVISTOCK. 217 

daughter, Elfrida,* was espoused by King Edgar. 
In 961, Ordulph, the son of Orgar, being admo- 
nished by a vision, founded a most extensive 
monastery at Tavistock, which he dedicated to St. 
Mary and St. Burien. According to several an- 
cient writers this abbey was a most magnificent 
structure. Leland describes its church to have 
been 126 yards in length, exclusive of a chapel 
at the end, dedicated to the virgin. It had a 
grand Chapter House containing 36 arched stalls. 
At one time it possessed 15 knights' fees, or 
10,200 acres of land. Within its walls, Risdon 
says, " once you might have seen the sepulture of 
Orgarius (Orgar), and the huge proportion of 
his son Ordulph's tomb ; for he was of large sta- 
ture and giant-like strength." The abbots of 
Tavistock were so rich and proud that they 
aspired to the dignity of a mitre, and Richard 
Barham, the thirty-fifth abbot, obtained from 
Henry VIII. the privilege of sitting in the House 
of Peers. The revenue of the monastery at the 
dissolution was £902. 5s. 7d., and John Peryn, 
the last abbot, had £100 per annum settled on 
him for life. In 1539 the abbey, with the bo- 
rough, town, burgage, rectory, and vicarage of 

* Tradition fixes the scene of the loves of Etholwolf and Elfrida, 
and the events which led to the subseqnent marriage of that lady with 
Edgar, at Harewood on the Tamar. 

U 



218 TAVISTOCK. 

Tavistock became by patent the property of Lord 
John Russell, afterwards Duke of Bedford, in 
which noble family these possessions still continue. 
The greater part of the abbey was taken down 
in 1670, but several mutilated relics of this once 
majestic building still exist to interest the anti- 
quary. The more perfect portions are converted 
into barns and warehouses, still, however, wearing 
a venerable and ecclesiastical appearance. Near 
the Bedford Arms — the principal inn — is a large 
arched gateway, apparently built about the time 
of Henry VI. Many years ago a stone coffin was 
found among the ruins containing some immense 
human bones— still preserved in the church — 
supposed to have been those of Ordulph, who is 
represented by William of Malmesbury to have 
been of so great a stature that he was able to 
stride over brooks ten feet wide. Near the coffin 
was discovered the fragment of a tomb with the 
inscription 

Subjacetintus 

Condi (or. 

At the head of the sarcophagus stood an upright 
stone with the words 

Nepos Ranii filii condevi. 

carved on it. This stone has been removed to 



TAVISTOCK. 219 

the vicar's garden. In 1718 the effigy of Ordulph 
was to be seen in a dilapidated cloister, now 
demolished. 

The Saxon literature was much encouraged at 
Tavistock, and lectures were read here in that 
language down to the time of the Reformation. 
A printing press was established in the abbey 
shortly after the introduction of that art into 
England, and among the books that issued from 
it were ;< Walton's Translation of Boetius de 
Consolatione," 1525, 4to ; " emprinted in the 
exempte Monastery of Tavestoke, in Denshyre, 
by me Dan Thomas Rycharde, monk of the said 
monastery ;"—" The Confirmation of the Tyn- 
ner's Charter," twenty-sixth of Henry VIII., six- 
teen leaves 4to ; and also a Saxon Grammar, 
called " The Long Grammar." 

Pursuing our route to Lydford we soon arrive 
on a wide heath, from which it is interesting to 
gaze on the expanse of landscape that spreads 
around. The Cornish mountains present a mag- 
nificently broken ridge in the west, Between 
those picturesque eminences and the spot on 
which we stand are hundreds of richly cultivated 
fields of all possible tints of green. Woods are 
here and there scattered in the vallies ; and not 
wanting is the tower of more than one village 



220 LYDFORD CASCADE AND BRENT-TOR. 

church peering above the trees of some sweetly 
secluded dell Streams wind through the strag- 
gling copses, while nestling cottages and lordly- 
seats impart an additional charm to the picture. 
Towards the east we look into the solitudes of 
Dartmoor. The tors are frequently hidden by 
clouds, and in winter light wreaths of mist are 
generally seen floating along the rock-strewed 
slopes. At such seasons it is pleasing to watch 
the different lights and shadows which pass in 
rapid succession over the waste. Sometimes a 
burst of sunshine makes visible every isolated 
rock and every lonely torrent— again the hills and 
glens are wrapt in the mystery of a ray less gloom. 
The spectator in contemplating the mighty moor- 
land peaks cannot help mentally reverting to the 
changes which have influenced the world since 
their rude forms first frowned sublimely over the 
desert — without dwelling in sad retrospection on 
the earthly splendour which has been wrecked — 
the ambition that has been blighted — the hopes 
which have been quenched in sorrow — the " envy, 
hatred, malice, and all uncharitableness " which 
have stirred up man against his brother man ; — 
and how much of human passsion — of human 
suffering — of human affection — has passed away 
into the depths of oblivion. 



BRENT-TOR CHURCH. 221 

As we proceed, our attention is forcibly struck 
with the romantic appearance of Brent-tor and 
the little antique church on its summit. On ap- 
proaching more closely to that singular rock, we 
find it difficult to account for the erection of a 
place of worship on so wild and exposed a site* 
Its origin is explained by the following legend : — 
A rich merchant, who had toiled away the early 
part of his life in a " farre countrie," was re- 
turning home to enjoy in peace the fruits of his 
industry. Before, however, the shores of Eng- 
land met his view, a fearful tempest overtook the 
ship, and in a moment of danger he vowed that 
if his life were spared he would build a church 
on the first land he saw. The storm at length 
ceased. Shortly afterwards Brent-tor was seen 
peering up in the horizon, and the merchant 
faithfully performed his vow. The church is 
very small, being only 37 feet long by 14 wide, 
It is dedicated to St. Michael. The tower stands 
on the edge of a perpendicular cliff, and the 
rocks around it are picturesquely interspersed 
with patches of green sward. The edifice is 
very rude ; it appears to be little else than a 
solid mass of masonry, and solid it ought to be 
to withstand the fury of the storms which occa- 
sionally howl around so unsheltered a region, 



222 BRENT-TOR CHURCH. 

The windows — three in number — are mere slits, 
just sufficient to admit a " dim religious light" 
into the building. A scanty burial-ground sur- 
rounds the church, but from the undisturbed 
appearance of the ground, the office of sexton in 
this parish is evidently a sinecure. The head- 
stones are either broken or deeply bedded in the 
earth ; not one of them bears a legible inscrip- 
tion to tell the name and virtues of the mute 
inhabitant below. On the exterior of the north 
wall of the church, however, is a slate tomb- 
stone, most gorgeously bedight " with cunnynge 
carved work," in the execution of which the 
whole skill of some village Phidias seems to have 
been put forth. It is nourished all over with fan- 
tastic emblems and subtle hieroglyphics — and with 
representations of angels, with faces having three 
little dots, knowingly meant for eyes, nose, and 
mouth ; but numerous spots of envious lichen have 
played sad havoc with these heavenly effigies. The 
inscription which it bears is literally as follows : — 

Me montari mors. 

Heare vnder This stone l.yeth the body of 

wa'ter baiten of brimsabach who was bvried 

April the 6th 1677. Allso Alice his wiFe 

who was bvried the thirde ofdeceraber 

1681. 

The interior of the building is worth inspection. 
It consists of but one small aisle, and the arrange- 



BRENT-TOR CHURCH. 223 

ments for the accommodation of the congregation 
are very simple. Above the south door is a 
wooden tablet, bearing the following appropriate 
texts from scripture : — 

"Surely the Lor 1 is in this place." 

" How dreadful is this place !— this is none other than the house of 
God, and this is the gate of Heaven.' ' 

Gen. xviii. v. 16, 17. 

" And upon this rock will I build my church, and the gates of hell 
shall not prevail against it." 

The ceiling is of oak, and the worm-eaten pews, 
are manifestly of great antiquity. The stone 
font seems intended to last till the consummation 
of all things, so massive is its construction. On 
the north wall is a tombstone with this epitaph. 

Life and a flower 
Vanish in an hour. 

Here vnder this stone lieth the body of 

John Cole, Jun. of Lifton, who departed this 

life the 24th of Nov. 1694, aetas 22. also 

Joan his sister, who was bvried the 1st of 

Feb. 1694, aetas II. 



If thou be serious (frend) peruse this stone, 
If thou be not soe pray let it alone, 
Against dethe's poison veitue's the best art, 
When good men seme to die they but departe. 

The tower contains three tolerably sized bells, 
one of them encircled with an incription in some 
strange character. 



224 BRENT-TOR. 

Brent-tor is asserted by a writer in the Gentle- 
man's Magazine, vol. X. to be an extinct volcano, 
which opinion is founded on its conical shape and 
the porosity of the rock of which it is composed. 
The view from its summit is very extensive. To- 
wards the south is a varied champaign of woods, 
heaths, and fields, bounded by the sea, which is, 
however, so remote that it can scarcely be distin- 
guished from the sky. Mount Edgcumbe is 
plainly visible. In the east are the wilds of 
Dartmoor: and towards the west and north 
stretches away a vast tract of cultivated landscape. 
" The wild appearance," says Warner, " of the 
country around this spot prevented it in former 
times from being visited by strangers ; and so 
trifling was the intercourse which it had with the 
populous and more cultivated parts of England, 
200 years ago, that Fuller, in his Worthies, de- 
scribes the inhabitants of a village near this church 
as a lawless tribe, wild as the ancient Scythians." 

Having left Brent-tor, we pursue the road for 
about two miles when we arrive at a farm house 
situated in a valley and surrounded by trees. By 
making inquires here we shall be shewn the path 
which leads to the Lydford Cascade, and in our 
way to the fall we soon attain the brow of the west 
slope of the valley in which it is situated. From 



L YD FORD WATERFALL. 225 

this elevated spot we look over a scene of singular 
grandeur. Far — far beneath is seen the Lyd 
winding amid huge promontories which fold 
magnificently behind each other, covered with 
luxuriant woods. At the head of the vale are 
the church and shattered castle of Lydford. At 
a little distance below the spot on which we stand 
is the brook which forms the cascade, but it 
does not long continue in sight, being swallowed 
up in the jaws of a rocky abyss, darkened by the 
foliage of overhanging trees. The view is alto- 
gether most impressive, and even the fastidious 
Gilpin observes that " no part of this magnificent 
scenery would be a disgrace to the wildest and 
most picturesque country." Having paused awhile 
to gaze on the beauties of this delightful prospect, 
we descend the steep by a narrow zig-zag path. 
As we approach the bottom of the hill our ear is 
salutetl by a lulling silvery sound that issues from 
a dark sylvan nook on the left bank of the river 
— it is the voice of the Lydford Waterfall, and on 
turning the angle of an abrupt rock we perceive 
a small stream sliding in a broad line of white 
foam from the top of an almost perpendicular 
precipice, about one hundred and forty feet high. 
It presents a pleasing but not a very grand sight, 
except in winter when the brook is swollen by 



226 LYDFORD WATERFALL, &C. 

rain collected from the neighbouring moors. 
The fall is unbroken save about the middle of the 
descent, where a slight projection is marked by 
the continual hovering of a little shower of spray. 
Near the foot of the cliff the stream spreads out 
into frothy wavelets, which chase each other over 
the rock in rapid succession, and the waters then 
glide peacefully away on either side of a mimic 
isle to augment the Lyd. The crags which 
frown around and above are overgrown with ivy 
and fine underwood. 

The wild glen which lies beyond the cascade 
in the direction of Lyd ford, is well worth inspec- 
tion, It is an almost untrodden haunt and so 
rugged that it is extremely difficult of access— in- 
deed it cannot be traced far, as it soon becomes a 
mere cleft in the earth. The traveller will find 
scarcely the vestige of a footpath, so he must make 
the best of his way " over bank, bush, and scaur," 
as chance may direct. Both banks rush up to a 
dizzy height, and the summits approach each other 
so nearly, that very scanty is the patch of sky be- 
held between them. In some places rises a per- 
pendicular mass of rocks, glistening with ivy. 
whose dark ^berries rustle audibly in the breeze, 
In these cliffs the hawk builds his nest, and he 
may frequently be observed wheeling on arrowy 



LYDFORD BRIDGE. 227 

wing around his impregnable eyrie. The Lyd 
works its way over rugged crags sending up an 
agonized roar in its struggles for a free passage. 
In many spots it has worn itself an almost subter- 
rannean channel through the solid rock, and it 
then forms itself into black and horrible whirl- 
pools, which the spectator almost shudders to look 
into. 

The hidden retreats of this ravine are su- 
premely lovely in the bloominess of the spring. 
The wanderer is then surrounded by thousands 
of beautiful flowers and plants just awakened from 
the sleep of winter. Here are the strawberry 
blossom — the daisy — the burnished golden-cup — 
and the azure perriwinkie, over which Rousseau 
wept in his old age because it recalled the me- 
mory of former and happier days. 

We now retrace our steps to the road, and in 
our way to Lydford we pass over Lyd ford Bridge, 
— a single arch thrown across a frightful chasm, 
nearly ninety feet deep, at the bottom of which the 
Lyd battles with the rocks that harass its course. 
The gulf is overgrown with ivy, and shadowed by 
the foliage of trees that in the summer prevent the 
river from being distinctly seen, though its roar 
always ascends in noble swells. Risdon, in de- 
scribing the bridge, observes " the river is here 



228 LYDFORD BRIDGE. 

gathered into such a streight, by the fretting of 
the earth between the rocks, that it seemeth to 
cavern itself as loth to see the desolation of the 
place. It maketh such an hideous noise, that 
being only heard and not seen, it causeth a kind 
of fear to the passengers, seeming to them that 
look down to it a deep abyss, and may be num- 
bered among the wonders of this kingdom." 

This spot has been the scene of more than one 
suicide. Perhaps the most distressing instance 
is that of a poor man of the neighbouring village 
who, being visited with temporary fits of insanity 
brought on by brain fever, was confined and 
closely watched. One stormy night, however, he 
contrived to elude the vigilance of his attendants, 
leaped naked out of his chamber window, and ran 
yelling down the road leading to the bridge. He 
was immediately followed, but his pursuers could 
only gain on him so much as to perceive him leap 
over the parapet of the bridge into the roaring 
abyss beneath. Another story exists of a gentle- 
man, named Captain Williams, who, being in- 
volved in pecuniary embarrassments, resolved on 
self-destruction, and fixed on Lydford Bridge for 
the completion of his horrible purpose. He ac- 
cordingly left Exeter, the place of his abode, and 
rode to this spot on a bleak tempestuous winter's 



LYDFORD. 229 

day, his road lying through a savage and deserted 
tract of moorland. On his arrival at the bridge 
he endeavoured to make his horse leap over the 
parapet (as was supposed from the disturbed state 
of the upper stones), but not being able to effect 
this, he dismounted, threw his saddle into the 
yawning gulph, and then himself. An anecdote 
is also related of a London traveller who, in pass- 
ing the village during a very dark and inclement 
night, was much surprised by an unaccountable 
bound which his horse made in the middle of his 
career. A few hours after his arrival at Tavi- 
stock he was informed that Lydford Bridge had 
given way the night preceding, and then he 
recollected with a shudder that the strange leap 
which his horse had taken must have been across 
the bridgeless chasm. 

Lydford, though it now consists of but a few 
miserable cottages, was formerly a place of very 
considerable importance, and Julius Caesar is said 
to have honored it with a visit on his second in- 
vasion of Britain. In the year 997 it was nearly 
demolished by the Danes after they had destroyed 
Tavistock Abbey, but shortly afterwards it again 
became a nourishing town, and in the reign of the 
Conqueror it had 1-iO burgesses. Ethelred II. 
had a mint at Lvaford, the coins of which are 



230 LYDFORD CASTLE. 

distinguishable by the letters LVD. LVD A. 
LVD AN. These coins are very rare, but the 
late Dr. Hunter had two or three of them in his 
cabinet. It appears from Domesday book that at 
one period London and Lydford were taxed 
pretty nearly on an equality. This place in the 
reign of Edward III. sent members to parliament, 
but it was subsequently excused propter pauper- 
tatem, It is still one of the stannary towns. 
The greater part of Dartmoor lies within this 
parish. 

Considerable traces of ancient buildings were 
to be seen at Lydford when Risdon wrote his 
; ' Survey of Devon," (about the year 1630.) This 
author says " they can shew you where the gates 
stood, and also the foundation of the walls that 
encircled it (the town) compacted of moorstone 
and lime, which they lighted on as they digged 
their fields." The only relic which now remains 
to remind us of the ancient importance of the 
place is a large square keep of a castle, standing 
on a mound of earth. The walls are 40 feet high, 
and each side of the building measures 50 feet. 
It is now converted into a repository for rural 
implements. Iron bars are still beheld in the 
narrow slits which served for windows, and in 
the centre of the thick walls are stone staircases, 



LYDFORD CASTLE. 231 

leading to rooms whose floors are gone. Here 
are also some deep dungeons, almost filled with 
rubbish. In this castle used to be held Stannary 
Courts, which had the power of trying and 
punishing persons who offended against the laws 
of the Stannaries. The dungeons of the castle 
were so bad as to give rise to the adage " Lydford 
law punishes first and tries after." An old writer 
(Browne) alludes to this as follows : — 

I've often heard of Lydford law, 
Where in the morn they haug and draw 

And sit in judgment after ; 
At first I wondered at it much, 
But since I've found the matter such 

That it deserves no laughter. 

They have a castle on a hill ; 
1 took it for an old windmill 

The vanes blown off by weather, 
To lie therein one night, 'tis guessM, 
'Twere better to be stoned and prest, 

Or hang'd— now choose you whether. 

Criminals were detained here a month, year, or 
longer, a gaol delivery taking place only once in 
ten years ; which circumstance was complained 
of by petition in the reign of Edward III. who is- 
sued a commission to redress this grievance. In 
1512 Richard Strode, Esq., member of parliament 
for the borough of Plympton Earle, having 
exerted himself to procure an act to prevent the 
blocking up of harbours by the operation of stream 
works, was prosecuted by the tinners at their 



232 LYDFORD CASTLE, &C. 

court held at Crockern-tor, and sentenced to pay 
a severe fine. On his refusal to comply with the 
penalty, he was confined in the loathsome dun- 
geons of Lydford Castle for more than three 
weeks, heavily ironed and fed on bread and water. 
Close to the castle is the church, an antique 
edifice of granite. 

The moors around Lydford are singularly wild 
and unfrequented. Many years ago a peasant, 
wandering across the waste in search of some 
stray sheep, discovered in a lonely spot the body 
of a sailor in a state of decay, bearing the appear- 
ance of having been lifeless for several weeks. 
His head was reclined on a bundle of clothes, and 
at his feet were the remains of a small dog. It 
was conjectured that the unfortunate man must 
have perished in one of the fearful storms which 
sometimes visit this unsheltered district, and, as 
no one recognised the corpse, it was removed and 
interred in Lydford church-yard. 

In returning to Tavistock the excursionist 
should vary his route by a visit to the little moor- 
land village of Peter-tavy, whose interesting 
church and picturesque mill are alone well entitled 
to half an hour's attention. 



233 



ENDSXiEXGH COTTAGE. 

"It is a scene 
Worthy the magic of the painter's skill,— 
Worthy his powerful and living touch 
Whose pencil Genius has made all divine." 

About seven miles from Tavistock is Endsleigh 
Cottage, the delightful Devonshire retreat of his 
Grace the Duke of Bedford. The building, which 
was designed by Jeffry Wyatt, stands on a plea- 
sant slope, at whose foot roll the waters of the 
Tamar, and its construction possesses so little of 
architectural regularity, that it reminds the spec- 
tator of some of those ancient country residences 
now and then met with, which have received ad- 
ditions at different periods to make room for an 
increasing family. Notwithstanding, however, 
the apparent want of harmony in the various parts 
of Endsleigh Cottage it wears a very picturesque 
appearance, and is a great ornament to the sur- 
rounding landscape. Its walls are here and there 
clothed with graceful and luxuriant flowering 
shrubs, which have been planted with much taste- 
ful discrimination. The little garden in front is, 
in the season of flowers, a sight to be contemplated 
x 2 



234 ENDSLEIGH COTTAGE. 

with feelings of no common delight. The in- 
terior of the cottage is most splendidly fitted up — 
and not the least attractive feature in the furni- 
ture are the large and valuable mirrors which 
adorn the rooms. The library contains a great 
number of well selected books. The apartments 
are generally spacious, but the visitor cannot help 
being charmed by the many little carpeted nooks 
which he is ever and anon peeping into — quiet 
haunts fit for the exercise of severe contemplation 
or of poetic thought. 

At the bottom of the lawn, near the farm 
buildings, is the Dairy, " an elegant rustic erection 
with an open porch and gallery." The coolness 
of the interior is very refreshing in summer. The 
milk vessels are made of polished marble ; and in 
the centre of the building is a fountain of clear 
water. The windows are all tinted. 

Near the Cottage is a pleasant little Summer- 
house, in which sparkles a fountain of ever-run- 
ning water. This spot commands the woods 
and meadows on the banks of the river, and the 
floating bridge which, by means of a rope and 
windlass, is contrived to transport vehicles from 
sided to side." In a distant part of the grounds 
is " the Swiss Cottage, a picturesque building in 
the midst of an Alpine garden. A labourer in- 



ENDSLEIGH COTTAGE. 235 

habits the lower apartments ; the upper rooms, 
which are attained by a staircase and gallery con- 
structed outside the Cottage a la Suisse, are fitted 
up with appropriate furniture for the occasional 
visits of the noble family. The view from the 
gallery is remarkably interesting." The grounds 
are rich in sylvan attractions, and wherever the 
hand of art has been able to furnish a grace, with- 
out interfereing with the harmonies of nature, it 
has been done. The paths along the banks of 
the river wind through some rich tracts of home 
landscape, and, indeed, the country for several 
miles around Endsleigh abounds with scenes of 
impressive loveliness. No tourist ought to leave 
the West without having first inspected this 
neighbourhood :*— such spots are not frequently 
met with even in Devonshire — the romantic — 
the beautiful. 

* By a receDt regulation it is necessary to obtain a :icket ofadmis- 
9ioD to rhe grounds of Eudsleigh, which is readiiv granted on appii. 
cation to the steward of the Du.e of Bedford, who resides at Tavistoek 



236 



SXCOSUSZOS? TO WHISTMAIJ'S -WOOD 
THROUGH PRINCE-TOWM". 

I looked upon the scene both far and near, 
More doleful place did never eye survey ; 

It seemed as if the spring-time came not here, 
Or Natute here were willing to decay. 

WORDSWORTH. 

" In Nature there is nothing melancholy," says 
one of our modern poetical writers, but this asser- 
tion, though generally true, is not universally so. 
The landscape is indeed attractive whether its 
features be mountains, cliffs, rocks, torrents, and 
magnificently frowning skies, or peaceful vales, 
gently rising hills, smiling hamlets, and cultivated 
meadows through which roll smooth streams re- 
flecting in their bosoms the azure of the summer 
heavens. There are, nevertheless, some blots on 
the face of nature. Scenes may be found where 
the magic influence of spring fails to call forth a 
single beauty, and which winter renders not 
more unlovely ; — which morning finds desolate, 
and evening leaves dreary and forbidding. Of 
this character is Whistman's Wood, for if ever 
Nature " were willing to decay" it is here. The 



EXCURSION TO WHISTMAN's WOOD. 237 

breeze seeks this lonely place but to murmur 
among leafless moss-grown branches ; and if a 
bird in his flight across the moor, stoop to rest 
his weary pinions in this spot, struck by the de- 
solation which surrounds him, he pipes but a 
hasty song and wings his way to more congenial 
haunts. 

Whistman's Wood is an assemblage of stunted 
oak trees, supposed to be the remains of the an- 
cient plantations of Dartmoor. It is situated 
about a mile north of Two Bridges, on the eastern 
slope of a wild valley through which a branch of 
the river Dart pursues its solitary course. It is 
described by Risdon as fc< some acres of woode the 
trees of which are a fathom about, and yet no 
taller than a man may touch the top with his 
hand." 

Our excursion to this singular feature of the 
moor and the neighbouring objects of interest 
commences at Roborough Rock, which stands on 
the down of the same name, near the junction of 
the Tavistock and Moreton roads. By following 
the latter we speedily arrive at the foot of that 
billowy line of hills which forms the western ex- 
tremity of Dartmoor, sweeping away in rugged 
perspective as far as the eye can reach. 

The rocks on these high tors wear the appear- 



238 EXCURSION to whistman's wood. 

ance of ruined fortifications : while the slopes and 
the intersecting valleys are covered with alternate 
patches of luxuriant heath and scanty herbage. 
Our road leads us over this ridge ; and when we 
have nearly gained the summit of the hill above 
Walkhampton we are presented with a noble 
prospect. The whole of the cultivated country 
lying between the western border of Dartmoor 
and the Tamar is spread out before the eye. We 
look over the sister towns of Plymouth and De- 
vonport — the peninsula of Mount Edgcumbe — 
Hamoaze and the ships of War tranquilly resting 
on its ample bosom — the Vale of the Tavy and 
Brent-tor up-rushing in the far horizon. It is 
sweet to linger on the spot which commands these 
objects when the sun is placidly sinking into his 
ocean- bed ; — sweet it is to gaze over the wide 
champaign, crossed and re-crossed by innumerable 
hedges ; to behold the long dark heath of Robo- 
rough — the sparkling streams in the valleys— the 
white-washed cottages — the roads branching off 
in every direction, now and then lost to the view 
and again appearing where one least expects to 
find them— the tower of many a village church, 
keeping watch over the resting place of the 
dead — the cattle standing in drowsy groups about 
the green meadows, and the bold Cornish hills 



excursion to whistman's WOOD. 239 

retiring behind each other in misty succession. 
And while the spectator is contemplating the 
landscape his ear is saluted by that pleasing con- 
fusion of sounds which always precedes the hush 
of twilight, such as the lowing of the herds — the 
dying cadence of the village bells — the creaking 
of homeward journeying carts — the voices of the 
drivers inspiriting their jaded horses — and the 
deep-mouthed bayings of the watchful house dog. 
Towards the moor all is impressive solitude and 
deep — deep stillness, though now and then the 
rushing murmur of a distant torrent comes faintly 
swelling on the ear. The hills throw their long 
blue shadows over the slopes and the beams of the 
setting sun invest the highest of the tors with a 
kind of melancholy smile. 

At the top of the eminence, south of the road, 
is an ancient beacon. It is a circular mound 
about fiVe feet high, composed of small stones, 
enclosing a space of several feet in diameter for 
the reception of the fire. It is completely over- 
grown with heath and lichens, but its shape is 
quite perfect. About half a mile south-east of 
this beacon is a singularly romantic tor, with the 
name of which the writer is unacquainted. It 
forms a huge broken ridge running down the 
slope of a broad deep valley. Its sides are 



240 PRINCE-TOWN. 

shelvy precipices, and the stones near it are 
hurled together in such loose combinations that 
they seem to have been suddenly arrested in 
the act of rolling down into the glen beneath. 
Other masses are piled on each other like frag- 
ments of ruined buildings, and they are either 
encrusted with rich mosses or overgrown by luxu- 
riant ivies. The slopes near this tor are clothed 
in winter with a species of white lichen, remark- 
ably soft to the tread and pleasing to the sight, 
when viewed closely, but wearing a ghastly and 
desolate appearance when beheld from afar. 

We will now return to the road and continue 
our tour. The chief objects that seize our at- 
tention are the wild tors frowning around, 
assuming at almost every step we take a new and 
striking aspect. Many isolated heaps of rocks 
are scattered about on the swells, some of them 
so regularly piled on each other that the spectator 
can scarcely persuade himself that he is not gazing 
on the architectural remains of other years. The 
road is frequently crossed by a lonely streamlet, 
bounding along with all the characteristic fresh- 
ness of a mountain brook ; and it is pleasing to 
observe the shadows of the clouds journeying 
slowly over the moorland plains, chequering the 
ground with dark heavy spots, resembling tracts 



DARTMOOR PRISON. 241 

of thick underwood. It is not long before we 
arrive at Prince-town, a collection of about half 
a dozen miserable hovels and two good inns, 
chiefly supported by travellers traversing the 
moor from Moreton to Plymouth, Devonport, &c. 
At Prince-town is the great government prison 
of war known by the name of " Dartmoor Pri- 
son," which was built in the year 1806. u The 
establishment comprises a circular admeasurement 
of thirty acres, enclosed on its eastern, northern 
and southern directions by a lofty wall, and on, 
the west by two handsome residences, appropri- 
ated to the agent and surgeon, having between 
them a cyclopean gateway, surmounted by the 
motto " Par cere subjectis" The prison consists 
of seven buildings, each 300 feet long and 50 
wide, capable of holding together 9,600 men, 
or even more, at one time, and containing two 
floors for double tiers of hammocks, suspended 
on cast iron pillars, and a third floor in the roof 
for exercise in bad weather. Without perplexity 
it is hardly possible to describe every separate 
erection, but among the other buildings are a 
barrack for 18 officers and 484 non-commis- 
sioned officers and soldiers, a chacot or solitary 
place of confinement for refractory offenders, a 
hospital, hot and cold baths, a house for washing 
• y 



242 DARTMOOR PRISON. 

and drying clothes, and other superior arrange- 
ments, all plentifully supplied with excellent 
water from an inexhaustible reservoir outside the 
front entrance, filled by a diverted part of the 
river Walkham. Sentry boxes are stationed on 
the walls at short distances from each other, and 
in foggy weather alarm bells used to be hung in 
all directions. At a certain period of the war 
10,000 prisoners were confined within these 
walls ; and ingenious and many were the me- 
thods by which the captives endeavoured to kill 
time." 

•—a desperate race. 
Men of all climes,— attached to none,— were here, 
Rude mingled with the hero who had fought, 
By freedom fired, for his beloved France. 
And these, as volatile as bold, defied 
Intrusive thought, and flung it to the gale 
That whistled round them. Madd'ning dance and song— 
The jest obscene, the eager bet, the dice 
Eventful;— these, and thousand more, devised 
To kill the hours, filled up the varied day : — 
And when the moorland evening o'er them closed, 
On easy pillow slept the careless throng 
To run to morrow the eternal round 
Of reckless mirth and on invention call 
For ceaseless novelty. 

And others woo'd 
The muses, and with soothing song beguiled 
The leaden moments. Harp on harp was heard, 
Of sweetest melody, and some pursued 
Severest lore ; and followed with firm step, 
Thee Science— thee Philosophy— and gave 
The hours to wisdom. 

DARTMOOU, 



FICE'S WELL, — TWO BRIDGES, &C. 243 

More than one project has been at different times 
entertained of refitting these prisons for the re- 
ception of convicted felons, to be employed in 
improving the waste. Connected with the prison 
is a neat chapel, capable of accommodating 500 
persons. Service is still performed here on Sun- 
days, the church of Lydford, in which parish, as 
we have elsewhere observed, lies the greater part 
of Dartmoor, being ten or eleven miles distant. 
Burials and christenings must, however, still take 
place at Lydford. 

About a mile north of the prison is Fice's Well. 
a spring of clear water, enclosed by a granite 
wall. Over its mouth are the initials J. F. and 
the date 1 168. A tradition prevails in the moors 
that this well was built by one John or James 
Fice, who, in travelling across the waste, had ex 
perienced some great relief from the spring. The 
masonry bears evident marks of remote antiquity. 

Half a mile south of the prison is Tor Royal, 
the seat of Sir Thomas Tyrwhitt, Bart. 

Not far from Prince- town is Two Bridges, a 
secluded hamlet on the banks of the West Dart 
Here is a good bridge consisting of two arches, 
some flourishing plantations, scattered around, 
fully demonstrate that Dartmoor is not so inca- 



244 whistman's wood. 

pable of improvement as is generally imagined, 
From the neighbouring heights the river is seen 
winding through an extensive swamp towards 
the sea. 

About a mile north of Two Bridges, as the 
reader has been already informed, is Whistman's 
Wood. On approaching it closely, nothing can 
be more forbidding than the aspect of this perish- 
ing vestige of the proud forests that once clothed 
the mountainous regions of Dartmoor. The 
trees are all of pigmy stature, none of them ex- 
ceeding seven feet in height, but they are from 
five to seven feet in girth. Their branches are 
twisted and gnarled into the most fantastic shapes ; 
but what chiefly attracts the notice of the be- 
holder is the profusion of moss with which they 
are overgrown. This moss indeed exists in such 
astonishing abundance, that some of the boughs, 
though not in reality more than three or four inches 
in diameter, are made to appear five or sixtimes that 
thickness. The slope on which the wood stands 
is plentifully strewed with masses of granite, be- 
tween and over which the roots of the trees scram- 
ble in every direction, searching for nourishment. 
In summer the eye is cheered by a little green, 
but even that is formed by the foliage of bram- 



whist man's wood, &c. 245 

fern, ivy, and other parasitical plants which 
have fixed themselves on the trunks and branches 
of the decaying trees. The wood is not, how- 
ever, altogether devoid of minute attractions. 
The tourist, on a narrow inspection, will observe 
among the lichened blocks of stone many a lovely 
plant and solitary floweret shedding its fragrance 
on the moorland air. Among these the heath 
bell — that sweetest blossom of the wilderness — 
is most frequent. The general appearance of the 
spot is, notwithstanding, cheerless in the extreme. 
The trees are little other than lifeless heaps of 
yellow moss. Scarcely a leaf trembles in the 
breeze, and not a sound is heard but the melan- 
choly sighing of the wind, or the sullen roar of 
the impetuous torrent that rolls in the valley be- 
neath. Every object seems plunged in the sleep 
of death. In contemplating the sombre face of 
nature in the winter season we are gladdened by 
the consciousness that spring will return to bless 
the landscape with new life and beauty — that 
summer will again display her rich leafage — that 
the pencil of autumn will once more impart to the 
trees, hues as bright and as varied as the visions 
of fancy. But no such thoughts arise in the mind 
of him who visits the decaying foresters of Whist- 
man's Wood, for he is saddened by the reflection 
y 2 



246 CROCKERN TOR. 

that he is gazing on a scene chosen by Desolation 
as her own peculiar dwelling place.* 

In returning from Whistman's Wood the tourist 
ought not to omit visiting Crockern-tor, on whose 
stormy summit the ancient Stannary Parliaments 
were held. It is easily discovered from its being 
marked by a solitary cottage, the property of the 
Rev. R. Mason, which stands at its foot. Until 
within these few years the stone table and chairs, 
used on the above-mentioned occasions, were 
pointed out to the traveller, but time, and the 
ravages of the elements, have at last totally de- 
stroyed these interesting remains. The tor is 
stated to have once had " a cave for keeping wine, 
a wise precaution at such an open and inclement 
spot; but modern stannators, less hardy than 
their forefathers, have for sometime past preferred 
for their meetings a comfortable inn at Tavistock. 
The stannary courts both for Devon and Corn- 
wall were formerly held on Hengeston Down 
near Calstock on the Tamar, but they were re- 
moved by a charter of Edward I. to Crockern- 
„tor."f The view from this craggy eminence is 
extremely wild. On the one hand is a vast and 

• Whistman's Wood is believed to have owed its origin, or its pre- 
servation, to the celebrated Isabella de Foitilus, who founded Ford 
Abbey. 

+ Note to Carrington's Dartmoor. 



CROCKERN-TGR. 247 

desolate morass bounded by a chain of broken 
hills whose heads are fluently lost in the clouds. 
On the north and east frowns a chaos of shattered 
tors, proudly lifting their savage crests as if to 
dare the utmost fury of every passing tempest. 
Closer to the eye is the valley of the West Dart. 
and the waters as they struggle with the masses 
of granite which strew the channel, send forth a 
melancholy cadence. Seldom is it that a living 
creature is in sight, and the village of Two 
Bridges, which would otherwise cheer the mind 
with thoughts of civilization, is hidden from the 
sight by a monotonous heathy swell 



248 



BXC&XiEXGH VAXiS. 

How oft 
In darkness, and amid the many shapes 
Of joyous daylight ; — when the fretful stir, 
Unprofitable, and the fever of the world 
Have hung upon the beatings of my heart, 
How oft in spirit have I turned to thee! 
O sylvan Plyrn !* thou wanderer through the wood ! 
How often has my spirit turned to thee '. 

WORDSWORTH. 

Bickleigh Vale, about five miles east of Ply- 
mouth, is one of the most interesting specimens 
of confined woodland scenery in Devonshire. It 
can scarcely, however, be called a valley, for in 
some places it is only a huge cleft in the earth, 
the slopes not being more than two hundred feet 
asunder. These are covered with a profusion of 
young and old trees ; and one of the chief beauties 
of the vale is that it is intersected at short dis- 
tances by pleasant leafy dells, each with a fresh 
streamlet running through it, 

" To the sleeping woods al! night 
Singing a quiet tune." 

Grey rocks frequently hang on the sides of the 

* Wye in the original 



BICKLEIGH VALE. 249 

hills, tending, by the thoughts they excite of hoar 
antiquity to cast an additional charm over the 
scene, In the midst of these objects flows the 
lucid Plym, sometimes stealing along, placid as a 
vestal's dream, and seemingly as still as the vault 
of azure that sweeps above it, and at others foam- 
ing over a rocky channel, filling the woodland 
with turbulent echoes. Now gliding along in 
full day, glistening like a burnished sun beam, and 
then plunging into the bosom of umbrageous 
woods where the massy foliage forms a green 
firmament over head, with the light piercing 
through it like so many twinkling stars, which 
are as brightly reflected on the surface of the 
partially darkened waters. In short Bickieigh 
Vale is a region of romance, and poetry lurks in 
every corner of it. The imagination summons 
up little "tricksy" spirits to people its many 
secluded nooks, and Oberon, summoned by the 
spell of Fancy, treads the sunny glades with his 
elfin troop. 

To behold this sylvan retreat to advantage, the 
tourist should follow the course of the Plym 
through all its eccentric windings from the Lara 
up to Bickieigh Bridge. The Lara is a fine arm 
of the sea forming a kind of lake at the head of 
Catwater. It is bounded on the south bv the 



250 THE LARA. 

noble limestone cliffs of Oreston, opposing their 
ocreous hue to the greenness of the woods of 
Radford, and on the east by the cultivated fields 
from which issues the vagrant Plym, beyond 
which the hills of Dartmoor are beheld swelling 
up in barren grandeur. There is something sin- 
gularly interesting in the aspect of those wild 
moors, particularly in the first bright flush of a 
sunny morning, when they tower up into the 
clear air imbued with the softened tone of colour- 
ing — calmly and solitary magnificent. The north 
side of the Lara is occupied by the Plymouth 
Embankment road, and on the opposite bank the 
domain of Saltram presents a very pleasing scene. 
Those shores, as far as the eye can reach, are 
clothed with noble masses of foliage down to the 
water's edge. In one place a mimic promontory 
runs into the wave, much enhanced in beauty by 
a picturesque group of firs by which it is crowned. 
In the centre of the line of woods and fronting 
the village of Crabtree is a gently- sloping grassy 
arena, quite devoid of trees, on the back ground 
of which stands a kind of ruined building which 
has a very good effect. We must not quit the 
embankment road withont remarking the pleasant 
cottages of Lara Green, built on land gained from 
the sea. In fine weather numerous swans may 



PLYM BRIDGE. 251 

be seen gliding over the smooth Lara— each 
apparently betraying a consciousness of superior 
grace — 

—superbly frowning, 
And with proud breast his own white shadow crowning ; 
He slants his neck beneath the waters bright 
So silently, it seems a beam of light 
Come from the galaxy :— anon he sports, — 
With out spread wings the Naiad Zephyr courts, 
Or ruffles all the surface of the lake 
In striving from its chrystal face to take 
Some diamond wafer drops, and them to treasure 
In lonely nest, to sip them off at leisure. 

KEATS. 

Not far from the higher extremity of the Lara is 
Longbridge, where the Plym, at high tide, mingles 
with the ocean wave ; and here is also the estuary 
of a smaller stream which flows from the direc- 
tion of Plympton. Looking westward we behold 
the close dark woods of Saltram skirted by a sil- 
ver gleam of water, while above the village of 
Crabtree rises a conical foliaged mount of noble 
aspect, surmounted by a ruinous fortification. 
Leaving Longbridge, we enter a white gate that 
stands opposite the Lodge of Saltram and follow 
a road which runs along the left bank of the river, 
sometimes beneath the shade of fine plantations 
and at others through quiet bosoms of meadow 
land. We soon arrive at Plym Bridge which is 
situated in a kind of grand natural amphitheatre 
formed by wooded hills, rising on every side but 



252 PLYM BRIDGE, &C. 

one to a great height. At this spot Bickieigh 
Vale may be properly said to commence. The 
river above the bridge spreads into a mimic lake 
and fine old trees stand on the margin. 

"' With their green faces fixed upon the flood." 

The stream is so still that the dip of the smallest 
insect creates little ringlets on the surface. The 
water is here and there darkened by the over- 
hanging limb of some gigantic forester ; and fre- 
quently may a speckled trout be seen jealously 
darting along the weedy margin. Below the 
bridge it is pleasing to remark the stream, which 
was so tranquil above, bursting into foam as it de- 
scends the inclined floors of the arches, saluting 
the ear with all the delightful associations attend- 
ant on falling waters. There is a very beautiful 
cottage close to Plym Bridge, thatched and over- 
grown with roses and honeysuckles, and sur- 
rounded by a garden, containing some of the love- 
liest flowers in the wreath of Flora. It is just 
such a retreat as a romance writer would imagine 
for his heroine. 

Our onward path winds along the left bank of 
the river, and after making us acquainted with 
the beauties of many a sweet retirement, conducts 
us to Cann Quarry. Noble masses of slate rock 



BICKLEIGH VALE. 253 

are here laid open to the view, finely contrasted by 
the delicious softness of the neighbouring woods. 
A little above Cann Quarry is the salmon weir of 
the Plym, stretching from one bank to another in 
the form of a half moon ; and the waters, as they 
fall over it, form a picturesque crescent of foam. 
Close to the weir the slopes rise high on either 
side, clothed with a rich profusion of young trees, 
relieved here and there by the sombre colouring 
of a frowning rock. The river extends itself into 
a broad sheet. Nothing disturbs its tranquil 
bosom save when the swallow cools his wing in 
its clear waters, or when the breeze of the moor, 
hastily sweeping down from craggy heights and 
lonely glens, ruffles for a moment the bright 
serene. The banks do not here ascend immedi- 
ately from the margin of the stream, but space is 
left for a level grassy arena, darkened by the 
thick foliage of full grown trees which impart a 
kind of mysterious feeling to the spot. 

And many a flow' ret blossoms there to bless 
The gentle loveliness whose charms imbue 
Its border ; Btraw berry of the wilderness, 
The pearl-like daisy, violet brightly blue, 
Pale primrose, in whose cup the pearly dew 
Glistens till noontide's languid, listless hour; 
And last of all, and sweetest to the view, 
The lily of the vale, whose virgin flower 
Tremblesat every breath within her leafy bower, 

BARTON. 



254 BICKLEIGH VALE. 

In the watery mirror lies before the eye a 
sweetly reversed scene of tree, and rock, and 
bower, while in the centre is beheld a portion of 
the azure heavens. From the weir diverges a 
beautiful trout stream, which flows through the 
hidden recesses of the vale like the brook de- 
scribed by Byron, which 

" Pursued its course now gleaming and now hiding 
Its windings through the woods, now clear, now blue, 
According as the skies their shadows threw." 

This rivulet is full of delicious weeds which 
delight the eye by their graceful wavings to and 
fro in the restless current, while now and then a 
vagrant trout darts from some dark retreat, 
defying all efforts of the sight to follow his 
lightning course. 

The slopes of the valley speedily grow more 
contracted, and we are sometimes compelled to 
climb almost perpendicular banks, from which we 
can scarcely discern the windings of the Plym 
through the overhanging leafage, though we are 
enabled to guess the situation of its course by the 
loud murmurs of the waters rushing over their 
pebbly bed. We cross the extremities of several 
dark and rocky dells which would not be unworthy 
features in the scenery of a more romantic county 
than Devon. 



BICKLEIGH VALE. 255 

About a gunshot below Bickleigh Bridge— just 
where the path winds round a mass of slate rock 
— the lover of nature may peep into a sweetly 
secluded little nook. Both banks are composed 
of slate and rise perpendicularly to the height of 
several feet. The stream is here very deep, and 
so still that the eye can scarcely perceive any 
motion in the dead leaf which has fallen into its 
bosom from the lap of Autumn. The moss- 
encrusted rocks are reflected in the lucid mirror 
with striking fidelity, insomuch that it is difficult 
to fix the distinguishing line between the shadow 
and the substance ; and the simple wild flower 
that trembles to the breeze in the crevice of the 
cliff trembles as perfectly in the chrystal flood. 
A fine old oak, having yielded to the power of 
some wintry tempest, droops over the waters. 
The trees on both banks unite their topmost 
branches, and form a most refreshing canopy, in 
which the birds sit and sing their madrigals in the 
sleepy noon, while the boughs are not so closely 
woven together as to prevent a single sunbeam 
from sometimes stealing into this sacred recess, 
converting every transparent leaf which lies in its 
track into a vegetable emerald. Were not th e 
days of the mythology passed we should almost 
hesitate to gaze into this secluded santuary lest 



256 BICKLEIGH VALE. 

we should disturb a group of bathing nymphs and 
incur, by our rashness, the fate of that unhappy 
hunter, Actaeon. 

Bickleigh Bridge, a picturesque structure of 
one arch, next invites the attention, and here ter- 
minates our pilgrimage. In bidding adieu to the 
retreats of this charming vale, it may be observed, 
that they want not the magic of local attachment 
to render them more attractive. They may be 
explored when under the influence of every 
variety of circumstances which the seasons or 
different hours of the day present — in summer or 
in winter — at " morn or dewy eve," and still be 
found beautiful ; but when the pencil of autumn 
has invested the trees with its richest colourings 
— umber, and gold, and purple — earth cannot 
boast a more exquisite scene ; — and if, reader, you 
should ever stroll, at this pensive season, through 
Bickleigh Vale with one whose spirit rejoices not 
at the loveliness that surrounds him, be sure he 
possesses the heartless nature which Shakspeare 
ascribes to those who have " no music in their 
souls," — and therefore take the same bard's 
advice and " let no such man be trusted." 



257 



THE VAMSIT OF THB GAD. 



— it is a spot 
Almost unknown— nntiod; — the traveller 
Must turn him from the broad and beaten track 
Of men to find it. 

DARTMOOR. 



Is there a being who loves to hold converse 
with Nature in her most magnificent forms ? — 
who is fond of wandering by the solitary stream, 
and of listening to the roar of the mountain ca- 
taracts ? — who delights in that rugged and unso- 
phisticated beauty which is seldom found near 
the haunts of man?— let him seek the Valley of 
the Cad, for there he will behold Nature in her 
most untamed wildness, and, on the banks of the 
turbulent torrent, and in the shade of the giant 
hills which rise around, he may freely indulge his 
passion for the sublime, and luxuriate in thoughts 
which softer scenes would fail to inspire. 

The Cad rises on Dartmoor, and, after winding 
for some distance through a dreary tract of moor- 
land, flows into what is generally termed t; The 
z 2 



258 THE VALLEY OF THE CAD. 

Valley of the Cad" just below Cadaford Bridge, 
not far from the village of Shaugh. Soon after 
the stream enters that secluded glen it assumes 
the most impetuous and romantic character ima- 
ginable, dashing with headlong rapidity over the 
rocks so profusely strewed in its channel. Indeed 
the stream, from its first entrance into the vale 
till it mingles its waters with those of the Mew* 
at Shaugh Bridge, presents one continuous scene 
of tumult, and is ever struggling with the masses 
of granite which seem to have been hurled into 
its bed by some gigantic power from the cliffs 
above. These rocks are generally of an enor- 
mous size, and are thrown together in the wildest 
and most grotesque groups. Frequently may a 
huge fragment be seen spanning the torrent, and 
forming a kind of rude bridge ; while at another 
spot the stream is obliged to leap over a perpen- 
dicular barrier of rock which seems resolved to 
dispute the further passage of the waters. In 
some places the stream falls over an assemblage of 
disjointed blocks, and leaps from crag to crag in 
picturesque sheets of feathery foam. In other 
parts little islets are formed in the middle of the 
channel, with willows and other trees growing on 

* The united waters of the Mew and Cad at Shaugh Bridge form 
the Plym. The Mew is sometimes improperly temied the Plym. 



BICKLEIGH CHURCH. 259 

them. These, steadily bending over the ever- 
flashing waters, give an air of wild serenity to 
the spot; while their dark foliage forms a beau- 
tiful contrast to the snowy whiteness of the foam 
beneath. 

To visit this romantic valley, it is recommended 
that the tourist should diverge from the Tavistock 
turnpike near Jump, by the road which leads to 
Bickleigh, that he should proceed over Shangh 
Bridge to the hamlet of the same name, and 
thence to Cadaford Bridge. He ought then to 
pursue his excursion down the left bank of the 
Cad, by which he will be enabled to behold this 
interesting scene to the greatest advantage. It is 
needless perhaps to say that so rugged a glen 
must be explored on foot, as it contains no path 
but the narrow track worn along the margin of 
the stream by fishermen. Having left Jump and 
entered on the down, we are delighted by a near 
view of the desolate moor, with its tors rising in 
impressive grandeur, not unfrequently capped by 
lowering clouds. The village of Bickleigh soon 
invites our notice. It is seated on a high ridge 
between two deep vales. We shall find nothing 
here demanding peculiar attention excepting the 
church, which, has a lofty tower handsomely pro- 
portioned and ornamented at the corners with 



260 BICKLEIGH CHURCH. — SHAUGH BRIDGE. 

pinnacles. In the interior are preserved the hel- 
met, gauntlet, and pennon of the royalist warrior, 
Sir Nicholas Slanning, which are hung up in a 
conspicuous part of the church. The father of 
Sir Nicholas was slain in a duel by Sir John Fitz, 
of Tavistock, who afterwards committed suicide. 
This circumstance is alluded to in the following 
Latin inscription on the monument of the Slan- 
ning family, at the east end of the church : — 

" Idem caedis erat nostras simul author et ultor, 

Trux Homicida mei, mox Homicida sui, 
duemqiie in me primum, mox in se condidit ensem ; 

O! nostrum summi judicisarbiirium !" 

The tomb itself is an elaborate piece of work- 
manship. It consists of the effigies of a gentle- 
man and lady in antique costume, lying side by 
side beneath a wooden carved canopy. 

Any of the inhabitants of the village will point 
out the path leading across the village to Shaugh 
Bridge, a modern erection of hewn granite, 
standing at the junction of the Mew and Cad. 
The intelligent tourist will long regret that it 
was found necessary, a few years since, to demo- 
lish the old bridge, which was a most interesting 
feature of the scene and harmonized well with 
the surrounding objects: Many years must elapse 
before the new bridge can assume any thing like 



SHAUGH BRIDGE. 261 

the beautiful and time-worn appearance, which 
characterized the gothic arches and pointed but- 
tresses of the old structure, near which the lover 
of antiquity so delighted to linger.* The scenery 
in the immediate neighbourhood of this spot is 
singularly romantic. Above the bridge an 
almost perpendicular hill rises to a great height 
terminating in a rude peak. Its sides present fine 
alternations of overhanging rocks, clustering 
trees, and luxuriant climbing plants. At its base 
is a sea of underwood, in the midst of which are 
several aged oaks almost borne to the earth by 
the foliage of thick ivies and other parasitical 
plants. At a little distance below the bridge the 
newly united streams lose much of their turbulent 
character, and long before they plunge into Bick- 
leigh Vale their loud roar sinks into a subdued 
ripple, and they 

— murmur along 1 like a wayward child 
That sings iiself to rest, 

When its mother's eyes have looked and smil'd, 
And its mothers lips have pressed. 

AVe now ascend a steep hill to the village of 
Shaugh. This place, according to Risdon, " once 

* A friend of the author (Mr. James Morris, of Devonport,) lias in 
the true spirit of poetic feeling, lately planted several slips of ivy 
against Shaugh bridge:— may they spring to maturity and over- 
shadow the arches with their picturesque greenness ! 



262 SHAUGH CHURCH, &C. 

belonged to the Prior of Plympton, who held this 
tything of the lady Joan Pole, who was the 
daughter of William de Pole, a valiant soldier 
who went with Richard the I. unto the Holy 
Land, and she was sometime the wife of Guy de 
Brian, knight." Shaugh Church is spacious and 
has a handsome pinnacled tower of hewn granite. 
This building was severely shattered by lightning 
a few years since. Placed in a hedge, near the 
east end of the church-yard, is a shattered moor- 
stone cross of a very aged appearance. 

By following a road which runs in a north 
easterly direction across the moor, we soon arrive 
at Cadaford Bridge. The aspect of the waste 
from this spot would be dreary and uninteresting 
if it were not for the feelings which arise on 
viewing so vast and solitary a tract, almost en- 
tirely unappropriated to the wants of man. We 
now begin to trace the left bank of the stream and 
speedily enter the Valley of the Cad. The first 
appearance of this valley has an almost inde- 
scribable effect on him who has not been accus- 
tomed to the wilder features of nature. He 
beholds rocks piled on rocks, as if the work of 
magic ; — hills lifting their craggy summits to the 
clouds; cliffs, cataracts, and woods, altogether 
producing sensations which, when combined with 



VALLEY OF THE CAD. 263 

the roaring of the torrent, tend to throw the mind 
into a state of temporary abstraction. The right 
bank rises to a dizzy height, covered with a beau- 
tiful profusion of young trees. It is opposed, 
however, by a slope of a very different aspect. 
All there is magnificent barrenness, without a 
bough to shade it, and, at first sight, without a 
vegetable beauty to recommend it. Huge frag- 
ments of granite lie scattered about in the wildest 
confusion. Some masses appear as if they had 
been torn by some unearthly power out of the 
bowels of the moor — others are on tiptoe to quit 
their precarious situations and roll down into the 
flashing torrent. Even this spot will be found, 
however, to possess its gentler attractions. It is 
blessed with many a lovely floweret, which 
blooms there as if only to redeem the savage cha- 
racter of the scene ; — the sweet-smelling erica 
with its delicate purple bells — the furze with its 
guarded golden baskets " treasuries of the fays and 
fairies " — and even that tenderest daughter of the 
Spring — the pensive violet — 

"sweeter than the lids of Juno's eyes 
Or Cytherea's breath" — 

hallows by its presence many a craggy nook. 
Beds of velvet turf may be here and there seen 
studded with daisies, looking like silver stars set 



264 VALLEY OF THE CAD. 

in a firmament of green. The rude rocks them- 
selves are objects of interest ; they are clad with 
many a delicious specimen of lichen and with 
mosses whose hues are as bright as the visions of 
fancy. Young ivies creep up the sides of many 
fragments ; and near the river's marge not unfre- 
quently does the graceful woodbine uplift its 
blushing coronals into the sunny air. 

In continuing to descend the vale, the traveller 
will observe that the right bank possesses its 
ruggedaess. Often does a vast shapeless crag 
protrude itself through the leafage, as if to tell us 
that all which lies below the covert of the trees 
is not so free from rocky confusion as might be 
imagined. In one place rises a rude granite 
pillar surmounted by a kind of grotesque capital, 
but this singular instance of the wild playfulness 
of nature loses much of its effect when beheld 
from the west. Tremendously impending cliffs 
— gloomy, bare, and rifted — are speedily seen 
frowning above the stream, threatening to burst 
asunder and strew the glen beneath with their 
immense ruins. 

From the very margin of the torrent rises the 
Dewerstone, in one vast perpendicular mass, 
which, though not so impressive as the cliffs 
around and above it, forcibly strikes the attention 



THE DEWERSTONE. 265 

of the beholder. Its whole surface is so seamed in 
the manner peculiar to granite, that one would 
almost imagine he was gazing on the remains of 
a gigantic architectural work of former years. It 
is profusely overgrown with ivy and other creeping 
plants, which spread their pleasant foliage over 
its shattered front as if anxious to hind up the 
wounds which time and tempest have inflicted. 
To add to its effect numerous hawks, ravens, and 
kites, may be frequently seen floating around its 
rugged crest, filling the air with their hoarse 
screamings. He who has sufficient nerve to gaze 
from the summit of Dewerstone into the depth 
beneath will be amply remunerated for his trouble 
in ascending. The rocks immediately beneath the 
view seem as if they had been struck at once by 
a thousand thunderbolts and appear only held to- 
gether by chains of ivy. A few wild flowers are 
scattered about in the crevices of the cliff, and 
these, with here and there a mountain ash clinging 
half way down the precipice, impart a wild ani- 
mation to the spot. The eye looks round on a 
dreary tract of moorland, and with the exception 
of a passing bird, or a few sheep feeding on the 
less craggy parts of the slope, very seldom is it 
that a living being is in sight.* 

« On one of the flat blocks of granite on the ground above the 
2 A 



266 ! VALLEY OF THE CAt). 

By tracing the river for about half a mile below 
the Dewerstone, we again arrive at Shaugh Bridge. 

The Valley of the Cad is scarcely ever visited, 
save now and then by a solitary fisherman, gene- 
rally more intent on winning the harmless tenants 
of the stream from their cool retreats, than on 
admiring the romantic objects around him. Not- 
withstanding this, however, the tourist may 
journey a long time 

" owre nruir and moss 
Owre hills and mony a glen " 

before he will meet with a more attractive scene. 
It is interesting in summer, when the hot sun has 
exercised its tyranny over the waters of the moor ; 
and in winter, when the Cad thunders over its 
rocky bed with redoubled fury — at least the 
writer of this hasty sketch has always found it so 
— and often when " in city pent" does his spirit 
turn in memory to the pleasant hours which he 
has passed amid the haunts of that lonely moor- 
land glen. 

Dewerstone— at the front, as it were, of the vestibule of Nature's great 
temple of the wild and wonderful, where he so oft worshipped— is 
engraved the name of " CARRINGTON," with the date of his death, 
&c. This appropriate tribute to the memory of the bard of Dartmoor 
was undertaken as a labour of affection and respect by a warm friend 
and admirer— the gentleman mentioned in a preceding note. 



■~-\, 





? \ i 



vm 








m 


*$jBr \ 


m 



267 



SAXTSIAIVZ A3TD PIYMPTO^ 



Fair Saltram's beauteous groves whose verdant bowers 
Bead o'er the wanderer, lone musing, where 
The path, deep-shaded, winds the rocky shore. 
And pleasant 'lis, amid the glowing noon, 
To saunter there— unmarked— and note below, 
Curving his proud white neck, the graceful swan, 
Majestic sailing,— or the distant barge 
Slow moving,— or the sea-bird winging wild 
His startled flight. 

DARTMOOR. 



Saltram and Plympton lie within the com- 
pass of a pleasant afternoon's walk from Devon- 
port and Plymouth. The most advisable route is 
by the new line of road over the Lara Bridge. 
This fine structure, which was erected at the sole 
expence of the Right Hon. Earl of Morley, was 
commenced on the 23rd of August, 1824, and' 
opened to the public in July 1827. The arches 
are of cast iron constructed on stone piers. The 
span of the centre arch measures 200 feet, and 
the total length of the bridge is 500 feet. The 
roadway is 25 feet in width. 

* For excluding the wa'er of Chelson Bay, and enclosing, by the 
embankment, 70 acres of land, the Earl of Morley obtained the gold 
saeial of the Society for the Encouragement of Arts. 



268 SALTRAM HOUSE. 

At a short distance from the bridge is Saltram, 
the seat of the right Hon. Earl of Morley, a very 
charming domain, consisting of picturesque alter- 
nations of wood and lawn. The most prominent 
hill clothed with flourishing fir trees, has a very 
bold effect when beheld from afar. The house is 
a massive structure and has been much improved 
of late years. It was built at the commencement 
of the last century by Lady Catherine Parker. 
The apartments, which are spacious, are en- 
riched with a number of excellent pictures by 
the most famous ancient and modern artists. 
" The entrance to the mansion is through a hall 
adorned with busts ; on the chimney piece, 
which is supported by Cariatides, is sculptured 
the story of Androcles and the lion, and on the 
ceiling is a beautiful figure of Mercury. The 
library displays an extensive selection of superior 
works of literature, superb books of prints, &c. 
The pictures in this room are exclusively the pro- 
ductions of Sir Joshua Reynolds, if we except the 
portrait of that great man by A. Kauffman. The 
ceiling is supported by beautiful verd antique 
Ionic pillars, and near the window are placed two 
fine casts of Psyche and a fawn. The blue-room 
hung with blue sprinkled with gold stars, is occu- 
pied almost entirely by the pictures of the old 



SALTRAM HOUSE. 269 

masters, and the same may be ^observed of the 
billiard room. The great staircase contains some 
of the best specimens of A. KaufFman, consisting 
of historical subjects; these were painted ex- 
pressly for the Saltram collection and have all 
been engraved. In the centre of the wall is the 
magnificent Assumption of the Virgin, by Sabba- 
tini, taken from the church of La Morte, at Bo- 
logna, and brought to Saltram in 1819. Here 
are several fine busts and full length casts— among 
the latter is a beautiful Canova Hebe. The 
dining room is adorned with one picture by Zu- 
charelli, and completed with a unique assemblage 
of the works of Zucchi. Over the chimney piece 
is the Bacchanalian scene by Titian, a large pic- 
ture valued at three thousand guineas. Here are 
also some portraits by Jansen, Vandyck, and 
Reynolds, and pictures by Rubens, Paul Veronese, 
Mengs, and Canaletti. A bust of the Earl of 
Morley, by Nollekins, stands on a superb Buhl 
table originally presented to Sarah Duchess of 
Marlborough, by Louis XIV. It was given by 
her daughter the Duchess of Montague to the 
the grandmother of the Earl of Morley. The 
drawing room, hung with crimson velvet, is de- 
corated with pictures chiefly from the pencil of 
the Countess of Morley. Her ladyship Jhas 
2 a 2 



270 PLYMPTON. 

imitated with much felicity the style of the old 
masteis whom she has copied. The ceiling is 
supported by fluted pillars with richly gilt bases 
and capitals. Over the chimney-piece of the red 
drawing-room is a fine portrait of the Earl of 
Morley by Phillips ; here are also fine pictures by 
Michael Angelo, Domenichino, Salvator Rosa, 
Teniers, Guido, Caravagio, Pouissin, and Ca- 
racci." The above are the only apartments 
which are commonly shewn to strangers, but 
many of the other rooms contain some good 
portraits.* 

The pleasant — the sylvan — the ancient bo- 
rough of Plympton is situated not far from Sal- 
tram. It lies in a beautiful valley near the old 
London road. It is very interesting to look down 
upon it from the surrounding hills, for the neat 
looking dwellings — the grey church- tower— and 
the tottering ruins of the old baronial castle, in- 
terspersed with the foliage of flourishing trees, 
form a very attractive combination of picturesque 
objects. 

Plympton, as above remarked, was a borough 
town, formerly sending two members to parlia- 

* Boriugdon House, the ancient seat of the Morley family, is situ- 
ated in the neighbourhood of Plym Bridge. It is now iccupied as a 
farm house, but extensive remains of park walls, gateways, &c, attest 
ihe former importance of the mansion. 



FLYMPTON. 271 

ment. It was the residence of the ancient Earls 
of Devon, the decaying remnants of whose once 
magnificent castle still remain to attune the con- 
templative mind to reflections on the mutability 
of earthly grandeur. The principal fragment of 
the old fortress is the keep, which crowns, with 
its mutilated and ivied walls, the summit of a 
huge artificial mount. The fosse has sustained 
but comparatively little injury from the lapse of 
years. The castle is said to have been built by 
Richard de Redvers, afterwards Earl of Devon, 
to whom the manor was granted by Henry L 
Risdon notices this venerable relic in the fol- 
lowing flourish : — " This place hath been soe be- 
sieged by tyme that it must needs yield, not being 
able longer to holde up, whose mines may re- 
member us of our mortality, and to repair our 
mines by redeeming tyme, for 



•' If castles made of lyme and stone decaye 
What sure lie is in bodies made of clay ?" 



Plympton once had a college of secular canons 
founded by Edgar or some other West Saxon 
king, but Win. Warewist or Warlewast, bishop 
of Exeter, being offended at some irregularities, 
changed it into a priory of canons regular of St. 
Augustine, and dedicated it to St. Peter and St 



272 PLYMPTON, &C. 

Paul.* It was the richest priory in the county, 
and at the dissolution its annual revenue was 
valued at £912, 1 2s. 8d. The prior was allowed 
the unusually large stipend of £120 per annum. 
The first orchards in England are said, by tra- 
dition, to have been planted round Plympton 
Priory. Some few relics of the old monastic 
buildings may be traced near the church of 
Plympton St. Mary, close to which are a mill and 
a dwelling hoe called Priory* 

The town itself consists principally of four 
streets, but a great number of respectable dwell- 
ings are scattered about in the adjoining fields. 
It still retains its privileges as a stannary town : 
the Vice-w T arden of the Stannaries occasionally 
holds his court here. The Mayor of this borough 
is elected annually. The chief public buildings 
are the Guildhall and the Grammar School. Near 
the school is a large and handsome uninhabited 
brick mansion, the property of Mr. Treby, of 
Goodamoor. Plympton has a weekly market 
and four annual cattle fairs. It has the honour 
of being the birth place of the celebrated Sir 
Joshua Reynolds. f 

* Risdon says (o the Virgin Mary. The circnmstance occurred 
about the year 1100. 

+ Among the pictures of the ancestors of the Treby family in a 



PLYMPTON, &C. 273 

Plympton St. Mary Church is an edifice of 
venerable aspect, standing close to the London 
road. It was anciently the church of the priory. 
It is battlemented, and the walls are most pic- 
turesquely lichened. The tower is handsome, 
having pinnacles at the four corners, and contains 
a good set of bells. In the interior are several 
interesting monuments.* A stone, forming part 
of the floor, bears the following inscription : — 

" Alas here under foot doth lye 
A student fit for Pulpit high, 
His body Rotts, but godly minde 
The true celestial Joy do.he nude," 

The Church of Plympton Maurice is situated 
close under the shattered keep of Plympton Castle. 
It is a small neat fabric but possesses no features 
worthy of particular notice. There are other 
objects of interest in this vicinity, such as Elford- 
leigh, the mansion of W. Langmead, Esq.; 
Newnham Park, the residence of the Strodes ; 
the Manor House of Old Newnham ; Hemerdon, 
the seat of G. Woodley, Esq. ; the neighbouring 
eminence of Hemerdon Ball, with its noble pros- 
room of the Efa!l, is one of Sir Joshua Reynolds, by himself. Sir 
Joshua's father was keeper of the gr<ur.mar school in this p!ace. 

* Chiefly of the Morley family and the Strodes, whose ancestor* 
have held po-sessious in ihe neighbourhood from the time of the con- 
qnest. Adam Strode followed Edward 1. in his expediiion against 
Scotland, 



274 PLYMPTON, &C. 

pect; Goodamoor; Chaddlewood, the residence 
of W. H. Symonds, Esq.; the pleasant villages of 
Ridge way and Underwood ; and Farsdon, the 
seat of Richard Rosdew, Esq., through whose 
exertions the place has entirely changed its cha- 
racter from a wild moorland to a delightful 
woodland spot. 



2?5 



THE YEALM. 



—The Yealra 
Pride of our austral vales— our austral vales 
Unrivalled. Fostered by the genial clime 
The ancient oak, the tall Corinthian elm 
Of amplest growth attend his sylvan course. 
And sweet it is from Pus' inch's breezy mount 
To eye him winding slowly through the meads 
Where smiles the village, or where Kitley rears 
Its noble groves, or Coffleet spreads its lawn 
Delicious, or upon the verdant slope 
Beyond, fair Langdon rises. 

DARTMOOR. 



The Yealm owes its origin to Dartmoor the 
ever-teeming " mother of rivers." After winding 
for some distance through the heathy desert, con- 
tinually gathering strength from the rills which 
ooze out from the surrounding morasses, it ap- 
proaches Cornwood. Above this village the 
river is occasionally pent up in deep wooded dells, 
and being obstructed in its course by masses of 
rock forms some very romantic cascades. Corn- 
wood, anciently Corneard, consists chiefly of a few 
modern built houses. The church is ancient, and 
in the cemetry are several antique monuments of 
of granite. Within the church is the tomb of 



276 YEALMPTON CHURCH, &C. 

Sir John Rogers, Member of Parliament for Ply- 
mouth, a descendant of the Dr. Rogers who suf- 
fered martyrdom " f or conscience sake" in the 
reign of Mary, with others of the Rogerses, Bel- 
larmens, Saverys, &c. At Leemill Bridge the 
river is crossed by the Exeter road. Near this 
spot are Slade, the seat of J. S. Pode, Esq., and 
Delamoor, the retreat of T. H. Hayes, Esq. 
About four miles below Leemill Bridge is the 
ancient and picturesque village of Yealmpton. 
It is said to have been the residence of Ethelwold, 
king of the Saxons, whose lieutenant, Lipsius, is 
reported by tradition to have been interred here. 
Risdon observes, " the chief manor of this place 
anciently appertained to Matthew Fitzherbert, 
a noble soldier, who was one of the magnates or 
barons at the making of Magna Charta, and was 
also one of those potent noblemen for the king 
that made the accord between King John and 
the barons at Runnymede. His son, Herbert 
Fitz Matthew, is the fourth baron that is men- 
tioned on the roll of parliament at Tewkesbury." 
The Church of Yealmpton contains monuments 
to the memory of the Bastard, Pollexfen, Crocker, 
and Coplestone families. The inscription most 
worthy of notice is the following, engraven on a 
brass plate in the south aisle. 



YEALMPTON CHURCH, &C. 277 

" i arise shifted September snnne fyfe hundred sears thrise spent 

And four times twenty were since Christ to earth was sent, 

When Isabel the wief of Coplestone dear did dye, 

The third day buried thence now here in tombe doth lye. 

To Henry Fortescue thirde daughter by degree, 

And ^gnes eake her mother's name of Saintmaure's blode was she." 

The other, commemorative of the Bastard, Pol- 
iexfen, Coplestone, and Croker families ; of the 
last was, it appears from a Latin inscription, the 
standard bearer to Edward II. 

In the church-yard, is an oblong mass of granite 
measuring about nine feet in length, inscribed 
with the word TO REUS, and supposed by Mr. 
Polwhele to cover the remains of a Christianized 
Roman. The stone gradually diminishes in thick- 
ness towards one of the extremities, which is 
rough and unhewn as if intended to stand upright 
in the ground. Antiquaries are much at issue 
respecting the original intent of this relic. In 
the neighbourhood of Puslinch Bridge, near 
Yeaimpton, is a very curious cave in the lime- 
stone rock. 

We shall diverge from the Yealm to visit the 
village of Brixton, whose neat church contains 
some handsome monuments. In the neighbour- 
hood of Brixton is Coffleet the mansion of the 
Rev. R.Lane. " The lawn, which is tastefully 
interspersed with plantations, declines down to the 
banks of the Yealm. whose numerous miniature 
2 B 



278 KITLEY — NEWTON FERRERS, &C. 

promontories, grassy knolls, and woody inlets, 
form charming features in the surrounding land- 
scape. Having visited Lynham, the property of 
John Bulteel, Esq., of Fleet, we arrive at Kitley. 
the beautiful seat of E. P. Bastard, Esq. The 
mansion, which has been lately repaired in a 
style of tasteful splendour, contains a fine col- 
lection of pictures, among them are many of the 
finest productions of Sir Joshua Reynolds, as 
well as some of the foreign masters. " The an- 
cestors of Mr. Bastard followed the fortunes of 
the Norman Conqueror, who rewarded their ser- 
vices with large grants at Elford, Meavy, and 
other places. Kitley became their property by 
marriage with the heiress of Edmund Pollexfen, 
Esq., and has continued to be their principal resi- 
dence." Near Kitley is Puslineh, the seat of the 
Rev. John Yonge, rector of Newton. The hill 
w T hich rises behind the house commands a view 
of the most delightful description, 

Newton Ferrers stands near the mouth of the 
Yealm. It is a pleasant and healthful village 
The church presents nothing worthy the notice 
of the tourist. The hamlet of Noss, situated in a 
deep dell on the opposite shore, assumes a most 
romantic aspect when approached from the land. 
Close to Noss are the mansions and grounds of 



THE MEWSTONE. 279 

Membland, the property of Sir John Perriog, 
Bart. Further down the river is Wembury 
House, the residence of Sir Edward Thornton, 
G.C.B. standing in a very commanding situation, 
and near it is the modern cottage of Thomas 
Lockyer, Esq. 

The estuary of the Yealm is singularly pic- 
turesque, and is worth visiting in the twilight of 
a summer's evening, when the shadows of the 
bold hills are reposing on the bosom of the waters, 
and the sea-gull's screams, and the dashing of the 
ever restless ocean are heard mingling among the 
distant cliffs. Off the mouth of the Yealm is the 
Mewstone, a singular rock of pyramidical shape 
and of considerable extent. It belongs to the 
Calmady family, and swarms with rabbits. Ris- 
don, alluding to the Mewstone, observes, " Oppo- 
site to Wembury is a small island owned by the 
Calmady family ; from which even to Penlet- 
point (Penlee) the land shrinketh back for the 
ocean's entering of Tamar, which cometh gallop- 
ing to meet her almost from the Severn sea." 
This wild spot is now inhabited by a solitary 
couple, the sovereigns of all they survey, " from 
the centre all round to the sea." 



280 



THE SUMS. 



And Devon owes 10 the proline Moor, 

The rapid Errae. Adown the wooded slopes 

He comes, deep shaded oft, and foaming leads 

His stream beneath that bridge* en wreathed with leaf, 

O'er which the traveller bending loves to gaze 

Upon the flashing waters. 

DARTMOOit. 



The Erme rises in the south quarter of Dart- 
moor. It is a fine fresh stream full of boisterous 
life, and, till it reaches the cultivated scenes be- 
low Ivy Bridge, is generally beheld dashing with 
foaming rapidity over a channel thickly strewn 
with fragments of rock. The first village which 
it approaches after leaving its source is Harford, 
whose church is the only object worthy of the 
tourist's attention. The interior contains an 
antique tombe with a black letter inscription in 
memory of Thomas Williams, Esq., once Speaker 
of the House of Commons, who died in 1564. 
There is also a curious poetical epitaph on Eliza- 
beth Williams, and Mary her sister, which, 

* At Ivy Bridge. 



IVY BRIDGE. 281 

instead of the age of the latter, informs us, that 
" in numbering her virtues, death lost the 
reckoning of her days !" In the north aisle is a 
tablet of wood erected to the memory of his pa- 
rents, by John Prideaux, who left his native, 
place, Stowbridge, in this parish, poor and un- 
friended, yet rising by his virtues and his learn- 
ing, passed through the various honours of the 
university and became at last Bishop of Wor- 
cester. Passing Lukestand Grove, the residence 
of the Rev. R. Savage, we speedily arrive- at Ivy 
Bridge, a pleasant village situated in a romantic 
dell at the foot of the wild hills of Dartmoor, 
which frown above the neighbouring haunts of 
fertility in solitary grandeur. The Ernie, having 
just burst from the bosom of the moor, roars in 
broken cataracts over a channel of jagged rocks 
and is spanned by a bridge of one arch, profusely 
overgrown with ivy, thus imparting a name to 
the village. Ivy Bridge being situated on. the 
great road from London to Plymouth, is much 
enlivened by the passing and repassing of stage- 
coaches. It has two good inns. The scenery 
above the bridge is very beautiful, and is 
minutely described as follows by Warner: — 
" The first combination of objects that arrests the 
attention occurs two or three hundred yards above 



282 IVY BRIDGE. 

the bridge, where the path conducts to the side 
of the torrent and throws a short reach of it 
before the eye, hemmed in on the opposite side 
by rock and wood. Immediately in front a sheet 
of water tumbles over the face of a steep bank, 
apparently a natural waterfall, though formed by 
a stream stolen from the river at some distance 
above to serve the purposes of a paper mill, which 
is seen a little behind the cascade so broken by 
wood as to give additional beauty to the sketch . 
Pursuing the walk we were carried parallel to 
the river through a coppice for about half a mile, 
indulged, occasionally, with peeps of the rugged 
channel and rocky banks of the stream, always 
catching at these openings, a lofty wood, which, 
rising in am phi theatrical majesty, and following 
the curvature of the river, bounded the view before 
us. In the course of another mile the scenery was 
changed. Our path now entered what might be 
called a grove, consisting of fine tall trees, into 
whose recesses the eye could penetrate, unob- 
structed by humble coppice foliage, and catch the 
distant woodman at his labours. To the right lay 
the river in all its uncouth grandeur, darkened by 
the brown shade of a thickly wooded acclivity that 
rose rapidly and loftily from its eastern bank. 
The bed of the stream is at this point truly 



ERM1NGT0N. 283 

chaotic. It appears to have been formed in a 
convulsion of nature, or to have been left in its 
original state of rudeness when other things were 
reduced to order and beauty." 

Leaving Ivy Bridge we shall trace the river 
through some pleasing scenes till we arrive at 
Ermington, ki a name," as Risdon observes. 
t; framed from the river, and long since the prin- 
cipal place upon that stream, both for the Saxons 
imposing names in like sort, and for that the 
whole hundred hath its nomination thereof." 
The only object of interest here is the church. 
i; It is a spacious building consisting of a nave, 
two aisles, and a transept, with a lofty spire 
which is obviously inclined from its original per- 
pendicular, The church contains some handsome 
monuments. Near the tomb of the Swetes, of 
Train, are two decaying banners and an antique 
gauntlet. In the north aisle is a superb antique 
monument with an effigy in brass of one of the 
Streitchleighs, of Streitchleigh in this parish. 
The tomb is in a recess elaborately sculptured 
and enriched with numerous armorial bearings. 
Remains of knightly armour — a spear and two 
casques with visors are here carefully preserved." 

Below Ermington the Erme flows under Se- 
quer's Bridge, over which passes the turnpike 



284 MODBURY, &C. 

road to Modbury. " This is an ancient market 
and borough town, though neither incorporated 
nor represented in parliament. History, however, 
records that in the thirty- fourth of Edward I. it 
sent two members ; but with many other places 
in the county was afterwards exempted on peti- 
tion ; the alleged plea being the poverty of the 
inhabitants, which prevented their paying the 
representatives as was the custom in that age. 
The town consists principally of four streets, 
running in the direction of the cardinal points and 
crossing each other at right angles. It carries 
on some trade and has about 2000 inhabitants. 
The church is a spacious and handsome building, 
having a spire about 134 feet in height. Within 
are a neat marble font and pedestal and three 
large galleries, erected in 1716. In the south 
aisle is an alabaster statue in armour, supposed to 
be an effigy of one of the Champernowne family. 
The manor formerly belonged to Sir John Oke- 
stone or Oxston, but afterwards became the pro- 
perty of the Champernowne?. The family re- 
sided at Modbury from the time of Edward II. 
till the end of the seventeeth or beginning of the 
eighteenth century. The noble mansion in 
which they resided, called Modbury House, is 
nearly razed. Tradition speaks very highly of 



FLEET — HOLBETON. 285 

the ancient grandeur of this seat, and of the mag- 
nificent manner in which the Champernownes 
lived ; and particularly of their keeping a very 
fine band of singers which, if report may be 
credited, was the occasion of the family's ruin, for 
Mr. Champernowne having taken it on the river 
Thames in the time of Queen Elizabeth, her ma- 
jesty was so delighted with the music that she 
requested the loan of it for a month, to which Mr. 
Champernowne, aware of the probability of its 
never returning, would not consent, saying that 
he " hoped her majesty would allow him to keep 
his fancy." The queen was so highly exasperated 
at this refusal that she found some pretence to 
sue him at law and ruin him, by obliging him, in 
the course of the proceeding, to sell no fewer 
than nineteen manors." 

Near Sequer's Bridge is Fleet, the residence of 
John Bulteel, Esq. " This estate was formerly 
possessed by the Heles ; but in the year 17 16, on 
failure of issue in that family, it became the pro- 
perty of James Bulteel, Esq. The mansion is 
finely situated on an eminence on the western 
side of the river Erme. It commands a delightful 
prospect over the valley, through which the river 
winds, with Ermington Church, and in the dis- 
tance the well-known hills on the moor, called 



286 MOTHECOMBE HARBOUR. 

the East and West Beacons. Another part of the 
view includes a fine wood, together with the 
church and western extremity of the town of 
Modbury." 

Not far from Fleet is the village of Holbeton, 
the church of which contains an ancient monu- 
ment, bearing the figure of a knight in complete 
armour. In the transept is a white marble tomb 
to the memory of Peter Perring, Esq., of Mem- 
bland, and in the south aisle is a handsome monu- 
ment of the Bulteel family. 

The Erme falls into the sea at Mothecombe, a 
little hamlet situated 'in Bigbury Bay. Mothe- 
combe House, the residence of Mrs. Harris, was 
formerly the property of the Pollexfens. " In 
the year 1798 a singular phenomenon happened 
at the mouth of Mothecombe harbour. From a 
cliff on its western side projects a peninsula of 
many acres, called Mothecombe Back, consisting 
of an accumulation of sand and gravel, which has 
resisted the force of the waters for time imme- 
morial, and has a fair annually held on it This 
peninsula reaches so nearly across the harbour 
that the river Erme is confined by it almost close 
to the eastern cliff and there flows into the sea. 
At the beginning of the above year, in a tempes- 
tuous night, the waves formed another back or 



MOTHECOMBE HARBOUR. 287 

peninsula across the harbour, almost as large, and 
apparently as firm as the ancient one ; this 
seemed joined to the eastern cliff as firmly as the 
other to the western cliff, and, in consequence, 
the river, after clearing the old back, was forced 
to run quite across the harbour, by the side of 
the new obstruction before its waters could unite 
with the ocean. This occasioned so great an im- 
pediment to the navigation of the river, (which 
is chiefly by vessels in the coal and culm trade) 
that meetings were held to consult on the pos- 
sibility of regaining the passage by cutting 
through the new back. Before, however, a de- 
termination was made, and after the formidable 
barrier had continued undiminished for several 
months, the sea, in another stormy night, washed 
the whole away, leaving the harbour in its former 
state : the ancient peninsula not being in the 
least affected."* 

* Beauties of England and Wales. 



288 



OXtSSTOZf, F&irX&STOCB,, BOVISAND, 
MOUNT BATTEN, &c. 

The stranger may spend a few hours very 
pleasantly by visiting the above places in the 
order in which we have arranged them. The 
quarries of Oreston, to which we shall first allude, 
are objects of great interest, and cannot fail to 
reward the inspection of the intelligent tourist. 
These immense beds of lime-rock are situated on 
the banks of Catwater, and have furnished the 
whole of the immense quantity of stone used in 
the construction of the Breakwater. The rock 
will bear a very fine polish, and being beautifully 
veined, is frequently used for chimney-pieces, 
tables, and many ornamental purposes. The 
ground, containing about 25 acres, was purchased 
of the Duke of Bedford for £10,000. During 
the excavation of these cliffs in 1812, at the depth 
of sixty feet from the summit, and twenty-five 
from the margin of the sea, a cavity, or rather 
nodule of clay was discovered, about twenty-five 
feet long and twelve square, in the midst of which 



PLYMSTOCK. 289 

were found several bones of the rhinoceros, in a 
more perfect state, and containing less animal 
matter than any fossil bones that have yet been 
dug out of rock or earth." Other bones of the 
wolf, deer, cow, horse, &c, have also been found. 
The railways, tracks, cranes, quays, and all the 
various contrivances for extracting and shipping 
the huge blocks of marble, and the facility with 
which the work is effected, are such as to excite 
admiration. 

About a mile from Oreston is Plymstock, i; a 
pretty village surrounded by orchards. The 
church is spacious, and has a most elaborately 
carved screen of gilded and coloured tracery across 
the centre In the south aisle are several monu- 
ments of the family of Harris, of Radford. One 
dated 1677? to the memory of John Harris, Esq., 
is adorned with an effigy in armour and cherubic 
figures. The monument of the late John Harris, 
Esq., who died in 1817, is of white marble. 
Adjoining it is a plain tablet to the memory of 
Admiral Rowley Bulteel. In the north aisle is a 
neat cenotaph surmounted by an urn, with a Latin 
inscription to the memory of Joseph Bellamy, 
who died in the Gulf of Florida, of the yellow 
fever. Here is also a tablet commemorative of 
2 c 



290 BOVISAND. 

the Warren family, and an inscription recording 
their benevolence and the endowment of the 
charity school in this parish."* 

From Plymstock we shall conduct the tourist 
through a picturesque country to the government 
watering-place at Bovisand Bay, but we shall 
first draw his attention to Langdon Hall, the 
mansion of Charles Calmady, Esq. 

— seated deep 
la its own clustering groves ; and who would hope, 

Who haply treads that desert bay below 
W here ends the course of Yealm. to find so near 
A spot so sweet as Langdon*— Fairer scenes. 
Than those that lie beneath the raptured eye, 
This green isle knows not: ever- varied, too, 

Is the rich prospect; vallies softly sink 
And uplands swell, no level sameness tires ; 

While in the distance, happily dispos'd 

Sweeps lound the bold blue moor.t 

The Government watering-place at Bovisand 
next invites our inspection. A noble reservoir, 
capable of containing nearly twelve thousand 
tuns of water, is here constructed in a narrow 
valley, into which flow several fine streams col- 
lected from the neighbouring hills. The water 
is conducted in iron pipes from the reservoir to a 
line pier at Staddon Point, where every facility 
is afforded for the approach and shelter of boats 

• Howe's Panorama. t N. T. Carrington. 



MOUNT BATTEN, &C. 291 

in stormy weather. The advantage of such an 
establishment as this to ships of war lying in the 
Sound need not be pointed out ; and, indeed, the 
want of such an accommodation in this port was 
deeply felt during the last war. 

A path along Staddon Heights, which enables 
us to command some beautiful views of the Sound 
— Mount Edgcumbe — Hamoaze, and the towns 
of Plymouth, Devonport, and Stonehouse, con- 
ducts us to Mount Batten. This is a peninsula, 
forming part of the southern boundary of Cat- 
water. On the most elevated point is an ancient 
circular fort, built during the reign of Charles I. 
to defend the entrance of Catwater. It is in good 
preservation and has been appropriated by the 
harbour master to the purpose of a look-out house. 
Considerable apprehensions have been lately en- 
tertained that the excavation of the limestone 
quarries at Mount Batten, will be productive of 
much injury to Catwater, by lessening the hill on 
which the fort stands, and consequently admit- 
ting the unbroken fury of southerly gales into 
the harbour. Petitions have been presented to 
the Admiralty, by the inhabitants of Plymouth, 
praying the prohibition of the further working of 
these quarries ; but no steps have hitherto been 



292 MOUNT BATTEN, &C, 

taken to prevent the destruction of this natural 
bulwark. 

Near Mount Batten is Turnchapel, at which 
is a dock-yard, the property of the Earl of 
Morley. It contains a very spacious dry dock, 
which has been chiefly used in the repairing of 
ships of war. 



293 



a aouaa skstch o? daetmooh. 

Dartmoor ! thou wert to me, io childhood's hour, 
A will and wond'rous region. Day by clay, 
Arose upon ray youthful eye thy belt 
Of hills mysterio .s, shadowy— * * * 
* * * How often on the speech 
Of the ha f savage peasant have 1 hung-, 
To hear of rock-crown'd heights on which the cloud 
For ever rests; and wilds stupendous, swept 
By mightiest s;orms ;— of glen, and go ge. and cliff 
Terrific, beetling o'er the stone-strewed vale ; 
And giant masses, hy the midnight flash 
Struck from the mountain's hissing brow, and huiTd 
Into the foaming torrent ! 

N. T. CAR RING I ON. 

Very few of the numerous strangers who resort 
du ring the summer months to Plymouth and De- 
vonport think of visiting the romantic waste of 
Dartmoor. The truth is, it is generally imagined 
to be a region dreary, monotonous, and whoUy 
devoid of attraction ; but they who entertain 
such an opinion know very little of that interest- 
ing solitude. They have never traced the turbu- 
lent mountain torrent from its source, down 
through the rock-strewed glen, to the luxuriant 
valleys of the south, where its fresh waters give 
life and green beauty to the softened landscape ; 
— they have never lingered round any of the 



294 DARTMOOR. 

thousand springs that " gush up in secret/' — 
loved haunts of the ring ouzel, whose silver voice 
is heard near them through the long summer 
day ; — they have not gazed from the shivered top 
of Dewerstone on the hawk screaming and sailing 
round his eyrie in that majestic cliff; nor thrown 
a delighted glance on the course of the Cad, 
brawling for ever over his wild and rugged chan- 
nel. Their footfalls have not aroused the timid 
hare from his refuge in the " silently decaying" 
wood of Whistman ; — nor on a rich autumnal 
evening have they beheld from the rocky brow 
of Sheepstor the sun setting in mellowed glory 
behind the distant and broken ridges of the 
Cornish mountains. 

Dartmoor is indeed hallowed by the most in- 
teresting associations, and in- its secluded re- 
cesses forms of beauty and of grandeur every 
where meet the eye of a close observer of nature. 
The purple heath-bell springs up beneath his feet 
—the variegated lichen encrusts the rifted rock — 
the creeping moss sheds a loveliness over the moist 
hill-side — the fern waves gracefully in the passing 
wind — the spiral foxglove displays its speckled 
bosom— the tall reed and the glossy plumes of 
the cotton-rush nod in the same breeze that wafts 
along the delicate thistle down — the torrent fills 



DARTMOOR. 295 

the glen with romantic music — the mountain bee 
hums his soothing lullaby — and the song of 
many a melodious bird echoes sweetly amid the 
frowning crags. 

This wild tract of uncultivated country is twenty 
miles long, and, on the average, about eleven 
broad : it contains, according to a report lately 
laid on the table of the House of Commons, 
130,000 acres. Its appearance from a distance 
is truly picturesque, and Gilpin is perfectly cor- 
rect when he states that " it spreads like the 
ocean after a storm, heaving in large swells." 
The torrent streams of this singular district are 
objects of peculiar attraction.* To describe one 
of these is to describe the whole. The reader 
must imagine a deep valley, or rather ravine, 
whose sides are covered with beetling rocks, 
hurled together in grotesque confusion. At the 
bottom foams a headlong stream, sending up a 
loud roar as it leaps over the mis-shapen crags 
which oppose its passage, presenting, in asso- 
ciation with the surrounding scenery, a picture 
of alpine grandeur. 

* Besides the rivers Dart, Teign, Tavy, Taw, Plym, Cad, Erme, 
and Yealm, Dartmoor gives birth to no fewer than foity-eight streams, 
some of them of considerable magnitude. The Bridges over the Dart- 
moor rivers, on the moor itself, and within a do very remote dis'ance 
from its borders, amount to upwards of 137, the greater part of wuich 
are kept in repair by the county. 



296 DARTMOOR. 

Dartmoor, both above and below the surface, 
abounds in enormous blocks of granite ; and those 
which are scattered on its mighty slopes, exposed 
to the influence of the elements and the ravages 
of time, are moulded into the most impressive 
forms. In some places they are piled on each 
other with a regularity which seems almost the 
effect of art ; and it requires but very slight aid 
from the fancy to make them assume the most 
interesting semblances. The poet will shadow 
forth to himself the remains of sublunary gran- 
deur—will muse amid fallen columns and shat- 
tered arches, and sigh over the bygone renown of 
fabrics that have passed away from the face of 
the earth even as a flower that withereth ; — the 
antiquary will imagine ruined castles, lifting high 
their tottering turrets, and crumbling abbeys 
with their wind-swept aisles and mouldering 
cloisters — or he will recognise the relics of a 
remoter age in the semblances of moss-grown 
cromlechs and druidical monuments: — the mo- 
ralist, in contemplating the rude scene, will be 
reminded of the awful wrecks of human ambition, 
and the misanthrope will exult in the solitude of 
spots where he can indulge his gloomy imaginings 
undisturbed. 

The principal features of the moor are its tors, 



THE TORS OF DARTMOOR. 297 

or huge conical masses of disjointed rocks, which 
crown most of the high swells. The subjoined 
outline of a few of these rude chroniclers of the 
wilderness may not be totally uninteresting. 
Sheepstor, near Meavy, is very romantic, and 
being loftily situated on the western edge of the 
moorland, commands a very diversified prospect. 
It rushes into the waste like a bold promontory, 
and though on its slopes huge fragments of 
granite are scattered in chaotical confusion, its 
summit is partly clothed with smooth green turf. 
The eastern extremity of the tor is a perpen- 
dicular cliff, which, being seamed in a remarkable 
manner, bears some resemblance to the basaltic 
columns of the island of Staffa. Sheepstor is 
celebrated in many a rustic story as being fre- 
quented by the pixies or Devonshire fairies, and 
a cave is their shewn which these fabulous little 
beings are said to make their peculiar haunt. 
Three Barrow tor, in the vicinity of Ivy Bridge, 
overlooks a beautiful and extensive view, in- 
cluding the whole of the South Hams, lying at 
the feet like a deliciously variegated carpet. 
Portland in Dorsetshire, and the Lizard in Corn- 
wall, are in clear weather plainly distinguishable. 
Towards the west are the towns of Plymouth and 
Devonport — the tower-crowned peninsula of 



298 THE TORS OF DARTMOOR. 

Mount Edgcumbe — the estuary of the silver 
Yealm — and the prospect is bounded by the 
eternal ocean. This tor owes its name to three 
huge barrows or cairns on its brow, supposed to 
cover the remains of some warriors of the olden 
time.* Crockern-tor has been already alluded 
to in another sketch. From Kings-tor near 
Walkhampton, it is said that twenty -four towns 
may be seen, and this is by no means unlikely 
when it is considered that in Devon, as well as in 
Cornwall, almost every little group of cottages, 
standing near a church, is dignified with the 
name of town. Shearaback-tor, about two miles 
east of Shaugh, seems to owe its origin to some 
violent convulsion of nature. The very bowels 
of the earth are here torn open, and large rocks 
are scattered over the surface of the moor to a 
great distance— almost exclusively towards the 
north. Many of the fragments on the south side 



* The ancient practice of erecting cairns or barrows over the re 
mains of distinguished warriors is too well known to need any ex. 
planation here. We beg to observe, en passant, that they who wish 
to become acquainted with the customs of our remote ancestors, will 
<io well to refer to the epic poem of Rogvold, by Mr. J. F. Pennie 
(author of the Royal Minstrel, &c ) which, in addition to its anti- 
quarian information, contains passages that will bear a comparison 
with the most celebrated poe ry in the language. Some of his scenes 
are painted with a force and fidelity to nature seldom excelled. We 
regret to add that the patronage hitherto bestowed on Mr. Pennie 
has not been in proportion to his talent— indeed he is one of the most 
striking instances of unrewarded geuius that has occurred in modern 
times. 



CHILDE, OF PLYMSTOCK. 299 

wear the aspect of ruined fortifications. Hey, or 
High-tor,* a few miles from Ashburton, is singu- 
larly grand. It consists of a double peak on one 
of which is a large rock bason. It commands a 
noble prospect of ;t heaths, woods, rocks, mea- 
dows, rivers, towns, villages, the sea off Teign- 
mouth, and the coast as far as the cliffs of Dorset." 
Besides the tors above particularised, among the 
most remarkable are Hound-tor. Bot-tor, Rippin- 
tor, Sharp- tor, &c.+ 

In a plain below Fox-tor are still to be seen 
the remains of a granite tomb, erected about three 
centuries and a half ago, to the memory of John 
Childe, of Plymstock, who perished in a snow 
storm which overtook him while hunting on the 
moor. The following is Risdon's account of this 
occurrence : — ;i It is left us by tradition that one 
Childe, of Plymstoke, a man of fay re possessions, 
having no issue, ordained by his will that where- 
soever he should happen to be buried, to that 

* So generally designated, although the name has been objected to 
on good grounds. " Athuror (or Solar) Tor" being regarded as the 
proper appellation. Ii husieceived the title of the Olympus of Devon- 
shire, and the panoramic view from its cloven peaks has the character 
of being the finest in the county. 

+ Some of the tors, as High tor, South Brent tor, Three Barrow tor . 
Sharp-ior, Hamil-tor, and Cawson-down, were formerly beacons or 
fire-towers, which the word tor in the Celtic and other languages im- 
plies; and anciently there were watchingsand wardingsof the beacons, 
as is sufficiently evinced by a record, dated 1626, of the ancient pri- 
vileges of the manor of Sheepstor, which is declared by the document 
to be free from " watching and warding the beacons." 

Note to Carrington's " Dartmoor." 



300 CHILD E 5 S TOMB. 

church his lands should belong. It so fortuned, 
that he riding to hunt in the forest of Dartmore, 
being in pursuit of game, casually lost his com- 
pany and his way likewise. The season being 
so cold, and he so benumbed therewith, as he was 
enforced to kill his horse, and embowelled him 
to creep into his belly to get heat ; which not 
being able to preserve him, he was there frozen 
to death ; and, so found, was carried by Tavestoke 
men to be buried in the church of that abbey ; 
which was not so secretly done but the inhabi- 
tants of Plymstoke had knowledge thereof; 
which to prevent, they resorted to defend the 
carriage of the corpse over the bridge, where 
they conceived necessity compelled them to pass. 
But they were deceived by a guile ; for the Ta- 
vestoke men forthwith built a slight bridge, and 
passed over at another place without resistance, 
buried the body and enjoyed the lands ; in me- 
mory whereof the bridge beareth the name of 
Guilebridge to this day." Childe's tomb, when 
perfect, consisted of a square basement, each side 
formed into three steps, leading to an octagonal 
shaft which was surmounted by a small cross. 
Risdon says that it once bore the following 
couplet : — 

"The fyrste that f\ ndes and brynges mee to my grave 
The priorie of Plymstoke they shal have." 



DARTMOOR. 301 

The structure, standing alone in the midst of 
so impressive and solitary a region, wore a very 
interesting appearance, but about twenty-three 
years ago, after it had resisted the buffe tings of 
nealy four hundred winters, it was demolished by 
a farmer named Windeatt, who being about to 
construct a house in the neighbourhood, thought 
that the basement stones of the tomb might an- 
swer the purpose of door steps, and accordingly, 
without the least compunction, he converted them 
to that use. 

The craggy solitudes of Dartmoor are fre- 
quently visited by sudden and violent tempests. 
The rain-laden clouds as they roll darkly in from 
the Atlantic are intercepted by the high tors 
which take, as it were, the storm by the forelock, 
daring the artillery of heaven to battle with the 
enduring defences of earth. The tempest, in 
truth, harmonizes well with the character of this 
solitary wilderness. Though the heath-bell that 
skirts the torrent is beautiful in the sunshine, and 
the rude rocks and variegated mosses are invested 
with a spell of deep attraction when the rich 
beam of a serene evening glances across the moor, 
vet the waste, at such seasons, seems to wear an 
unwonted aspect, and reminds the observer of a 
smile playing on the savage features of a slnmber- 
2 c 



302 DARTMOOR, 

ing bandit. He, therefore, who wishes to behold 
this romantic region in its utmost magnificence, 
should visit it when the wintry gale is fiercely 
howling around —when the tors are clothed in 
the majesty of the cloud — when the murmur of 
every little brook is swollen into a voice of power 
— when the lightnings have unbound their "blue 
and arrowy pinions ;' ? — and he who dares at that 
fearful season to confront the angry spirits of the 
storm, in this their hereditary and undisputed 
strong hold, will be amply repaid for his perils by 
the feelings of grandeur and sublimity which will 
steal into his mind. 

The author was once overtaken by a moorland 
tempest while lingering in a romantic hollow,* 
just below the hamlet of Sheepstor. In conse- 
quence of a long drought which had oppressed 
the earth, the cascade of Sheepstor brook had 
resigned its romantic appearance— the waters no 
longer foamed flashingly over the rocky precipice, 
but gurgled an almost hidden course between the 
mossy stones. The clouds were scattered through 
the atmosphere in fine procession-like masses — 
all, however, wearing an aspect of wildness and 
storm — and one accustomed to the forebodings 
of nature might easily have perceived that a 

* See excursion from Shaugh Bridge to Shetp?tor. 



DARTMOOR. 303 

mighty elemental wrath was gathering overhead. 
Every now and then a wild and watery wreath 
of mist would fleet across the sky — an avant 
courier of the approaching tempest; — and the 
clouds grew by degrees denser and denser as the 
distant sea poured forth reinforcements from its 
inexhaustible treasury of storms. 

As noon drew near a more intense sultriness 
fell upon the earth. Every green thing appeared 
to lose its freshness. The busy hum of the insect 
world ceased — the butterfly hid his fairy form in 
the clustering grass — the bee plunged deep in 
the purple heath— the dragon-fly swept no more 
in shining circles along the margin of the stream, 
but instinctively sought a place of refuge. No 
longer the lark hung high in heaven, pouring out 
his soul of music " like a mountain river," but he 
fluttered tremblingly down into his nest among 
the wild flowers. The grasshopper ceased chirp- 
ing in the sward — and the very hawk, the only 
bird that dares confront the storm, flew to his 
eyrie in the shattered tor. 

The whole of the vale shortly became a scene 
of gloom ; — it was more like an advanced twilight 
than mid- day : and the darkness still increasing 
foretold that the anger of the sky would speedily 
be poured out upon the earth. All at once a 



304 DARTMOOR. 

rushing sound was heard on the wooded slopes as 
if the trees were suddenly bowed by the force of 
a mighty wind. This ceased. Another and yet 
another blast came and departed, leaving the 
landscape as quiet and as motionless as before. 
Heavy drops of rain were soon heard pattering 
among the leaves, like the straggling fire of a re- 
treating army. Again a death- like pause ensued, 
but not of long continuance, for at length " the 
windows of heaven were opened," and what an 
outpouring followed ! The rain fell in unslack- 
ening torrents, and, being sometimes impelled by 
sudden gusts of wind, it smoked along the hills in 
furious irregular rushes ; subsiding at last into a 
steady perpendicular shower. The hitherto dried 
up gullies that seamed the sides of the hills were 
filled with the largess of the heavens and ran riot 
in babbling echoes. Gleams of lightning darted 
across the gloom, followed by long and deep- 
mouthed peals of thunder, which burst from the 
clouds like the abrupt discharge of a piece of ord- 
nance—now dying away in subdued mutterings 
among the distant tors, and anon breaking forth 
with renewed power. The Plym speedily became 
swollen, and exchanged its translucent purity for 
a deep chocolate tinge, imparted by the peat 



DARTMOOR. 305 

which it washed down from the neighbouring 
moors. The tributary brooks — no longer the 
peaceful streams they were an hour before, when 
their waters had scarcely volume enough to float 
a dead leaf — now overflowed their channels and 
filled the woodland retreats with their hoarse 
brawlings. The cascade of Sheepstor brook be- 
came a sight of magnificence, being whirled 
down the ravine with wintry violence. 

In about half an hour the storm lessened, and it 
was not long before the rain entirely ceased. 
The black canopy of clouds began to "break up 
and float away to leeward in dark and sullen 
masses. Patches of bright blue sky gladdened 
the gaze, and the sun again shone forth with 
endazzling lustre. The trees and shrubs were 
hung with liquid gems that stole an exqusite 
emeraldine tint from the transparent leaves, and 
when the ray streamed on them they assumed an 
aspect more glorious than the fabled ornaments 
of Aladdin's fairy palace. The birds soon 
emerged one by one from their forest shelter — 
first fearfully peering about, and then bursting 
into a rich flood of melody when they became 
conscious that the storm had passed away. The 
butterfly shewed his frail and variegated wings — 



306 DARTMOOR. 

the dragon-fly again sported round the spreading 
beech tree — the bee resumed his merry roundelay 
—the oxen lowed rejoicingly in the far-off vales 
— the lark again spurned the sod — Nature had 
awoke from her short dream of gloom, and all 
was glad ! 



APPENDIX. 



GOVERNMENT ESTilSIiISHMENTS, 



N A V A L. 

OFFICE — GOVERNMENT-HOUSE, DEVONPORT. 

Port Admiral, Rt. Hon. Lord AraeliusBeauclerk, G.C.B. 

Secretary, T. Williams. 

Flag Lieutenant, H. Butler. 

GUARD SHIP. 

Royal Adelaide — Captain Sykes. 

OFFICERS OF THE ORDINARY. 

Capt. J. Hancock, C.B. Com. J. Robertson ; Lieuts. W. 
Parker, E. Knapman, James Derrriman, Charles Hall; 
Chaplain, W. K. Payne ; Purser, John Elliott. 

DOCK-YARD. 

Superintendent, Rear-Admiral J. Hayes, C.B. 
Master Attendant, A. Lumsdale ; Assistant ditto, W. 
Walker; Master Shipwright, T. Roberts; Storekeeper, 
E. Jessep; Store Receiver, H. B. Mends; Chaplain, Rev. 
John Briggs; Surgeon, R. Tobin ; Assistant ditto. G. 
Procter ; Director of the Police, Lieut. T. Williams, R.N.; 
Cashier, Walter Reid ; Chief Clerk, D. Dent; Harbour 
Master, R.Turner; Chief Engineer, T.Lloyd. 

GUN WHARF. 

Storekeeper, W. Ady : Deputy Storekeeper, T. Topping. 

POWDER MAGAZINE. 

Keyham Point — Storekeeper, P.Glinn. 

BREAKWATER. 

Office at Oreston Quarries — Superintendent of Works, 
W.Stewart; Assistaut. J. ClaringbulL 



308 APPENDIX. 

MILITARY . 

OFFICE — GOVERNMENT-SQUARE, MOUNTWISE. 

Governor, General Lord Hill : Lieut. -Governor, Major- 
General Ellice ; Aid -de -Camp,' Capt. Brand; Major of 
Brigade-Major C. H. Smith ; Chaplain, Rev. R. Hennah. 

ROYAL MARINES. 

Barracks, Stonehouse—Gom. Officer, Col. Abernethie ; 
Paymaster, Major Kinsman; Barrack-Master, Major Shep- 
herd ; Adjutants, Lieuts. Childs and Graham; Quarter 
Master, Lieut. Toby ; Surgeon, Dr. Ryall. 

ROYAL NAVAL HOSPITAL. 

Stonehouse — Captain Superintendent, Captain Phipps 
Hornby, C.B.; First Lieut. 0. Newell; Second Lieut. J. 
Jeans; Physician, Sir D. J. H.Dickson; Surgeon, Dr. 
Armstrong; Dispenser, W. Rae ; Agent and Steward, T. 
Grant; Chaplain, Rev. C. Burdwood. 

MILITARY HOSPITAL. 

Stoke — Barrack Master, Captain Tudor ; Deputy Barrack 
Master, Lieut. Allingham. 

ROYAL WILLIAM VICTUALLING YARD. 

Captain Superintendent, Captain Phipps Hornby ; Mas- 
ter Attendant, John Franklin; Storekeeper, Anthony 
Brady. 

CUSTOMS. 

Custom House, Parade, Plymouth— Collector, T. Wright; 
Comptroller, W. Lockyer; Landing Surveyor, H. Bar- 
berie ; Landing Waiters, J. Steer, R. Luscombe. 

EXCISE. 

Office, Notte-street, Plymouth — Collector, G. Gidley. 



BOROUGH OF PLYMOUTH. 

Civil — Office, Guildhall, Whimple-strcet. 

Mayor, J, King, Esq.; Recorder, W. C. Rowe, Esq..; 
Town Clerk, W. C. Whiteford; Coroner, R. J. Squire; 
Chamberlain, R. Treeby. 

Plymouth is governed by a Mayor, twelve Aldermen, 
thirty-six Common Councilmen, Recorder, Town Clerk, 
&c. The first election under the new Act, took place in 
December 1835, Thomas Gill, Esq. was elected Mayor, and 
C. Whiteford, Esq. Town Clerk. The Borough is divided 
into six wards, viz.— St. Andrew's, Drake's, Vintry, Sut- 
ton, Frankfort, and Charles. The Magistrates are as fol- 



APPENDIX. 309 

low:— J. King, Esq., Mayor, Thomas Gill, Esq., J, Collier, 
and T. Bewes, Esqs , Members of the Borough ; G. W. 
Soltau, Esq., G. Coryndon, Esq., W. Prance, Esq. Capt. 
Tozer, R.N., J.Whiteford, and H. Woollcombe, Esqrs.- 
Churches and Chapels. 

SAINT ANDREWS. 

Vicar, Rev. John Hatchard, A.M. ; Curate, Rev. C. J. 
Smith ; Clerk and Registrar of Banns, J. Boulter; Or- 
ganist, S. Drewitt; Sexton, J. Mildren. 

CHARLES. 

Vicar, Rev. S. Courtenay ; Curate, Rev. T. Hare ; 
Clerk and Registrar of Banns, T. Rickard ; Sexton, R. 
Lewis. 

saint Andrew's chapel. 

Minister, Rev. R. Luney, A. M. : Clerk, T. Pearse ; 
Organist, S. White. 

CHARLES' CHAPEL. 

Minister, Rev. M. Seaman. 

DISSENTERS' CHAPELS. 

Ebenezer Wesleyan Methodists, Old-town; no stated 
preacher. — Independent, Batter-street. Rev. R. Hartley. 
— Norley Chapel, Norley-street, Rev. G. Smith. — Taber- 
nacle, Rev. W, Poynton. — Rehoboth. Rev. W. Richards. 
— Baptist, How-street, Rev. S. Nicholson. — Bethesda, 
Rev. W. Seabrook. — Willow-street, Rev. J. Butter. — 
Bethel Chapel, Notte-street, various ministers. — Trinity 
Chapel, York-street, Rev. A. Triggs. — Unitarian Chapel, 
Norley-street, Rev. W. Odgers — Independent Methodist 
Salem-street. — Brionite Methodists, Parade. — The Friends' 
Meeting-house, Bilbury-street. — Jews' Synagogue, Cathe- 
rine-street. 

NEWSPAPERS. 

West of England Conservative, on Wednesday ; Plymouth 
Journal, on Thursday ; Plymouth Herald, and Plymouth 
News, on Saturday. 

BANKS. 

Naval Bank — Harris, Rosdew, and Co. London Agents, 
Sir J. Lubbock and Co. Hours 10 to 4. 

Devon and Cormvall Banking Company — London Agents, 
Barclay and Co. Hours 10 to 4. 

Western District Banking Company — London Agents, 
London and Westminster Bank. 

Branch Bank of England. Hours, 10 to 4. 

National Provincial Bank. Hours 10 to 4. 



310 APPENDIX. 

FOREIGN CONSULS. 

American, T. W . Fox 
French, J. Luscombe 
Spanish, W. H Hawker 
Swedish, J. Hawker 
Prussian, J, Luscombe 
Dutch, f , TT , 
Russian,! J- Hawker 
Danish, P. Schow 
Portuguese, J. Collier 
Buenos Ayres, J. Luscombe 

COMMERCIAL. 

Exchange, TV oolstcr -street— Chairman, J. Collier ; Trea- 
surer, Secretary, and Accountant, J. E. Blewett. 
^ Chamber of Commerce, Exchange— Chairman, Right Hon* 
Earl of Morley; Deputy Chairman, H. Woollcombe ; 
Treasurer, J. Smith; Secretary, J. E. 'Blewett ; Com- 
mittee of twelve 

WAGGONS. 

The waggons of Russell and Co depart almost daily from 
the warehouse of Mr. Courtis, Bedford-street, Plymouth. 

The London Fly Waggons — From the Elephant, 112, 
Fore-street, calling at the Old White Horse Cellar, Picca- 
dilly, through Salisbury, Shaftesbury, Hindon, Mere, Win- 
canton, Sherborne, Yeovil, Crewkerne, Iimiuster, Chard, 
Axminster, and Honiton, to the Mermaid Yard, Exeter, in 
4^ days ; and from thence, same night, to the Waggon 
Warehouse, Kinterbury-street, Plymouth, for Devonport 
and all parts of Cornwall. 

The Bristol Fly Waggons— ¥rom Shurmer's Warehouse, 
13, Temple-street, taking from the Birmingham, Man- 
chester, Liverpool, Cheltenham, and other Waggons, 
through Bridgewater, Taunton, Wellington, and Col- 
lumpton, to the Mermaid Yard, Exeter, in 34 hours; and 
from thence, same night, to the Waggon Warehouse, Kin- 
terbury-street. Plymouth, for Devonport, and all parts of 
Cornwall, arrive and depart every Monday, Wednesday, 
and Friday. 

Proprietors: — Wade andSHURMER, Birmingham ; King 
and Ward, (late Woolcott and Co ) London ; Chadwell, 
Bristol; Paddon, (late Single,) Kinterbury-street, Ply- 
month. 



311 



HACKNEY COACH FAKES 



Plymouth — From any place in Plymouth, to any other 
pace within the same Town, except the Citadel, Victual- 
ling-office, and Coxside — 2s 

From or to any place in Plymouth to or from the Citadel, 
the Victualling-office, and Coxside — 2s. 

From any place in Plymouth, to any other place within 
the Parishes of St. Andrew and Charles, exceeding the dis- 
tance before mentioned — 3s. 

From Plymouth.— From any of the stands in Plymouth, 
to the Richmond Baths, or to any of the stands in Devon- 
port, or to any other place in Devonport, not exceeding in 
distance the appointed stands — 3s 

From any of the stands in Plymouth, to any place in 
Devonport, exceeding in distance the appointed stands — 
2s. 6d. 

From any of tye stands in Plymouth, to any place in 
Stoke or Morice-Town, either by way of Stonehouse or 
Penny-come-quick — 3s. 

From any of the stands in Plymouth, to any other place 
within the parish of Stoke Daraerel, than those before- 
mentioned — 3s. 6d. 

From the Citadel, Victualling-office, and Coxside, to 
any place in Devonport, Stoke Damerel, and Stonehouse, 
an additional 6d. 

At Devonport. — From any place in the Towns of Devon- 
port, or Morice-town,to any other place in the same Towns, 
(including the Dock-yard and Gunwharf) — Is 6d. 

From any of the stands in Devonport, to the Richmond 
Baths, Stoke Church, or the village of Stoke — 2s. 

From any of the stands in Devonport, to any other place 
in the parish of Stoke Damerel, beyond Stoke Church, or 
the Village of Stoke, an additional Is 

From Devonport — From any of the stands in Devonport, 
to any of the stands in Plymouth, or to any place in Ply- 
mouth, not exceeding the distance of the appointed stands 
—2s. 

From any of the stands in Devonport, to any place in 
Plymouth, (except the Citadel, Victualling-office, and 
Coxside,) exceeding in distance the appointed stands — 
2s. 6d. 

From any of the stands in Devonport, to the Citadel, 
Victualling-office, and Coxside, at Plymouth — 3s. 



312 APPENDIX. 

From any of the stands at Devonport, to any place in the 
parishes of St. Andrew and Charles, in Plymouth, exceed- 
in? the distances before-mentioned, an additional Is. 

From Morice-Town or Stoke, to any place in Plymouth 
or S'onehouse, an additional Is. 

From and to Plymouth, Devonport, and Stonchouse. — From 
any of the stands in Plymouth or Devonport, to any stand 
in Stonehouse — Is 6d. 

From any of the stands in Plymouth or Devonport, 
to any place in the parish of Stonehouse, beyond the 
stands — 2s. 

At Stonehouse. — From anyplace in Stonehouse, to any 
other place in the same Town including the Naval 
Hospital — Is. 6d. 

From Stonehouse. — From or to any place in Stonehouse, 
to or from the Richmond Haths, or any place in Plymouth 
or Devonport, exceeding in distance the appointed stands, 
except the Citadel, Victualling-office, and*Coxside at Ply- 
mouth, and Morice-town, and Stoke, in the Parish of Stoke 
Damerel — Is. 6d. 

From any place in Stonehouse, to Stoke Chnrch, Morice- 
town, or the village of Stoke, or to any place in Plymouth, 
beyond the appointed stands, except to the Citadel, Vic- 
tualling-office, and Coxside — 2s. 

From any place in Stonehouse, to the Citadel, Victual- 
ling-office, and Coxside, in Plymouth — 2s. 6d. 

From any place in Stonehouse, to any place in the pa- 
rishes of St. Andrew and Charles, in Plymouth, or to any 
place in the parish of Stoke Damerel, exceeding the dis- 
tances before-mentioned — 3s. 

For Hackney Coaches with less than Four Wheels, or 
that shall be drawn by not more than One Horse, Two- 
thirds only of the preceding Rates shall be paid. 



STONEHOUSE. 



Parochial — Minister, H. A. Greaves ; Clerk and Regis- 
trar, J. Lamoreux ; Sexton, Mrs. Gill; Organist, Miss 
Huss. 

dissenters' chapels. 

Independent, Emma-place, no stated preacher; Ebe- 
nezer Baptist, Union-street, Rev. T. Webb; Ebenezer 



APPENDIX. 313 

Methodist. Edgcumbe-street, no stated preacher; Catholic, 
Pearl -street, Rev. Henry Riley ; and Corpus Christi Chapel, 
a very elegant place of worship, situate in Union-lane — 
Minister, Rev. H. Godden. 

A Board of Guardians ( 10 in number) has recently been 
elected. — Relieving Officer, J.Capron; Clerk and District 
Registrar,Mr. F. P. Wingate, Solicitor, 

Workhouse — The Master, who is styled Governor, is paid 
an annual salary. The present Master is Mr. W. Evens ; 
Matron, Mrs. Evens; Surgeon, Mr. I. Burrows. 

Post Office, Union-street — Postmistress, Mrs. Willcocks. 

Commercial Booms, do. — Mr. Cole's, bookseller". 

PEVONPORT AND STOKE DAMEREL. 
civil— Office, Town Hall, Ker-street. 
Magistrates — Thomas Husband, Senr , Rev. T. H. Ley, 
Capt. Sir J. G. Bremer, Capt. Foote, R.N., W. Hodge, 
Esq., Capt. Daykin, N. Downe, J. Parlby, Thomas Gard- 
ner, John Ingle, and W. Hancock, Esqrs. 
Cleric to Magistrates — Allan Bone, Solicitor. 
Clerk to Commissioners — Richard Rodd. 
Clerk to Guardians — John Beer, Solicitor. 
Post Office, St. Aubyn-street — Post Master, J . Coffin. 
Church and Chapels. 

STOKE CHURCH. 

Rector, Rev. W. J. St. Aubyn, A.M. ; Curate, Rev. W. S . 
More, A.B. ; Lecturer, Rev. J. C. Grylls, A.M. Clerk, G. 
Nettle ; Organist, J. S. Vining ; Sexton, J. Symons. 
st. aubyn's chapel. 

Incumbent, Rev. Dr. Jacob; Lecturer, Rev. J. Fernie, 
M.A. ; Clerk, T. Badge ; Organist, J.Dennis. 
st. John's chapel. 

Incumbent, Rev. John Lampen, A.M.; Curate, Rev. 
John Fernie, A.M.; Clerk, H. Rickard ; Organist, W. 
Lancaster. 

DOCK YARD CHAPEL. 

Chaplain, Rev. John Briggs, M.A. ; Clerk, W. Polking- 
horne ; Organist, W. Hunt. 

DISSENTERS' CHAPELS. 

Independent Calvinist, Princess-street; no stated preach- 
er—Baptist, Morice-square, T. Horton ; Wesleyan Metho- 
dist, Morice-street and Column-street ; no stated preachers 
—Independent Calvinist, Mouut-street, W. A.Hurndall — 



314 APPENDIX. 

Baptist, Pembroke-street, T. Willcocks— Calvinist. South- 
street, — Brown — Moravian, James-street, J. Willey— 
Calvinist, Ker-street, Rev. J. Cartwright. 

Morice-town — Wesleyan ; no stated preacher — Salem 
Chapel, Rev. W. Sherman — Tabernacle, Henry Kemp. 

Stoke — Providence and Wesleyan Chapels; no stated 
preachers. 

CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 

Workhouse, Duke -street — Governor, J. Lancaster; Sur- 
geons, Messrs. Harrison and Tripe. 

Public Dispensary for Stonehouse and Devonport, Chapel- 
street — Patron, Sir John St. Aubyn; President, Captain 
Superintendent Hornby; Vice-President, Rev. J. L. Lug- 
ger ; Treasurer, R. Bundle ; Secretary, E. Row ; Physician 
Extraordinary, Sir G. Magrath ; Physicians, C. Thomas 
and G. Glasson ; Surgeons, Messrs. Lower, R,olston, W. P. 
Mould, May, Burrows, Crossing, F. Row, M.D. ; Apothe- 
caries, Messrs. Cole and Webb. 

Public School (250 boys), St. John's Street — Patron, Sir 
John St. Aubyn, Bart.; President, Edward St. Aubyn, 
Esq.; Vice-President, Rev. John Lam pen, Treasurer, 
W. Hancock, Esq. becretary, T. Lancaster; Visitors, J. 
Beer, J. Bone ; Master, J. Underbill. Committee of 36. 

Public School (80 girls), Duke-street, Ope — Treasurer, 
Mrs. Dunning; Secretary, Miss Cow; Schoolmistress, Ann 
Wheeler 

Royal Naval Annuitant Society, Ker-street, Devonport — 
Actuary, Lieut- G. F. Somerville ; Secretaries, Capt. B. 
Kent, Lieut. A. G. Barrette, Lieut. W. Jones, (d) Capt. J. 
Whylock, R.M. Mr. F. S Newcomb, Mr. T. Whilley, Mr. 
R. B. Gregory, Mr. J. Trounsell. Mr. J. Cole, Mr. W. 
Yeames; Trustees, Rear-Admiral H. R, Glynn, Captain J. 
Pascoe, Captain W. B. Mends, Captain Sir James G. Bre- 
mer, c.b., Captain W. Haydon, Captain T. Sanders, Major 
J. Owen, k.h. R.M., Lieut. C. Mc. Kenzie, Purser, E. 
Scott, Purser J. P. Bailey, Purser J.Clyde, Chaplain Rev. 
C. Burdwood ; Treasurers, Captain W. Hillyar, Captain 
W. Blight, Captain W. Slaughter^ Lieut. J. S. Lean, 
Lieut. R. F. Jewers, Captain W. Davis, r.m. 
banks. 

Devonport Bank — Hodge and Norman, Fore-street. Lon- 
don Agents, Sir J. Lubbock and Co. Hours 10 to 4. 

General Banlc—T. and H. I. Husband, Fore-street. Lon- 
don Agents, Williams, Deacon, and Co. Hours, 10 to 4. 



APPENDIX. 315 

Devon and Cornwall Banking Company — St. Aubyn-street. 
Manager, C. Prideaux. London Agents, Barclay and Co. 
Hours 10 to 4. 

Western District Banking Company — St. Aubyn-street. 
Manager, G. Havvtayne. London Agents, London and 
Westminster Bank. Hours 10 to 4. 

National Provincial Bank — Chapel-street. Manager, R. 
M. Oliver. Hours 10 to 5. Loudon Agents, London Joint 
Stock Bank. 

LITERARY INSTITUTIONS. 

Civil and Military Library, Ker-street — President. Sir J. 
St. Aubyn, Bart. ; Vice-Presidents, Edward St. Aubyn, 
R. Dunning; Treasurer, J. Wharton; Secretary, F. V. 
Gotleib ; Librarian, J. Hore. 

Devonport Classical and Mathematical School — President, 
Admiral Sir E. Codrington, M. P.; Vice-Presidents, Capt. 
Wilson, R.N. , C. Tripe; Treasurer, R.M.Oliver; Secre- 
tary, P.C.Clarke; Registrar, G. W. Hearle ; Librarians, 
Capt. Sanders, R.N. , Mr. Procter; Committee of twelve. 
Head Master, Rev. J. Fernie, A.M., Second Master, Rev. 
O. J. Tancock, A.B., Third Master, J. Adams; French 
Master, Mons. De la Rue ; Assistant French Master, Mons. 
Hamelin ; Master of Lower School, T. Hoskins. 

Mechanics'' Institute, Ker-street — President, Mr. H. P. 
Ramsey ; Vice-President. G. Dominey; Secretaries, J. 
Towson and J. Gormully; Librarian, Mr. Coad; Trea- 
surer, J. Turner; Curator, J.Ryder. Committee 24. 

Newspapers — Devonport Telegraph , published every Fri- 
day evening, at 57, St. Aubyn-street, by the proprietors, 
Soper and Richards; Devonport Independent, published 
every Saturday morning, by the proprietor, W. Byers, 32, 
Fore-street. 

Stamp Office, Fore-street — H. Gilbard, Sub-distributor. 

COACHES. 

From Elliott's Royal Hotel, Fore-street, Devonport. 

The London Royal Mail — Every morning at 45 mm. 
after 9, through Ivy Bridge, Ashburton, Chudleigh, Exeter^ 
Honiton, Ilminster, Shaftsbury, Basingstoke, Hartley- 
row, Bagshot, Egham, Hounslow Heath, to the Swan-with- 
two-necks, Lad-lane. 

The Celerity— Every day (Sunday excepted) at 12, 
through Exeter, Blandford, Dorchester, and Salisbury to 
the Bell aud Crown, Holborn. 

Bath Royal Mail— Every evening at half-past five, 
through Yealmpton, Erme Bridge, Totnes, Newton, Ex- 



316 APPENDIX. 

eter, Collumpton, White Ball, Taunton, Bridgewater, 
Glastonbury, Wells, and arrives at the York House, Bath, 
the following afternoon at 6 o'clock. 

The Standard— Every day at 12, through Totnes, New- 
ton, Exeter, arriving in Bristol the following Morning at 
at Six o'Clock. 

The Falmouth Royal Mail — Every evening at 45 min. 
after 5, through Liskeard, Lostwithiel, St. Austie £ Gram- 
pound, Truro, to Pearce's Royal Hotel, Falmouth. The 
above Mail leaves Pearce's Hotel, Falmouth, every morn- 
ing at Half-past One through Devonport, (where it joins 
the celebrated Quicksilver,) Plymouth, and Exeter, per- 
forming the journey to London in 28| hours ; the quickest 
conveyance from Falmouth. 

Launceston Royal Mail — Evenings at Five o'Clock, 
through Tavistock to Procter's White Hart. 

The Exquisite — Every Morning (Sundays excepted,) at 
Eight through Liskeard, Lostwithiel, St. Austle, Truro, 
Pearce's Royal Hotel, Falmouth, Penzance, Camborne, 
and Redruth. 

The Nimrod — Mornings at Nine, through Tavistock, 
Launceston, Holdsworthy, Bideford, arriving at Pearce's 
Fortescue Arms, Barnstaple, in the evening at Half-past 6. 
From Weakley's Hotel, Devonport. 

The Defiance — Every morning at 11 o'clock, (Sundays 
at half-past 10,) througn Ivy Bridge, Buckfastleigh, Ash- 
burton, Chudleigh, Ilminster, Cart Gate, Ilchester, Spang- 
ford, Wincanton, Deptford Inn, Amesbury, Andover, 
Whitchurch, Overton, Basingstoke, Bagrord Bridge, Bag- 
shot, Staines, Hounslow, to the Office, 52, Piccadilly, 
Fountain, Cheapside, and Bull Inn, Aldgate, at half-past 
12 o'clock the following day. 

The Telegraph— Every Tuesday, Thursday, and Satur- 
day, at quarter before nine, to Tavistock, Okehampton, 
Hatherleigh, Bideford, and Barnstaple. 

From Tounshend" s London Inn, Devonport. 

The Subscription — Everyday at nine o'clock, through 
Yealmpton, Erme Bridge, Totnes, Newton, Exeter, Honi- 
ton, Ilminster, Cart Gate, Salisbury, Stockbridge, Sutton, 
Basingstoke, Bagford Bridge, Bagshot, to the Bull and 
Mouth, London, at half-past 3 o'clock the following day. 

FERRIES. 

From Mutton Cove to Mount Edgcumbe, IcL From 
Morice-town to Torpoint, Cornwall. Id. From Saltash 
Passage, Devon, to Saltash, Cornwall, Id. 



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